Question What thickness would you recommend for 60"x 67" framed mirror

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kuluchicken

kuluchicken

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
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Auckland, New Zealand
Would a 4mm be thick enough if it is framed with a substantial moulding. (it converts to .15748 of an inch when I google it) I'm sorry, but I don't know how to put that over into fractions.

You guys can give it to me in fractions...I can convert it the other way around :) Your suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Michele
 
I believe that you will need a .25 inch thick mirror (6mm minimum) or you will get distortion or a "funhouse mirror" effect.
It will be heavy, but if you go with a thinner mirror, you will probably get distortion.
 
neilframer said:
I believe that you will need a .25 inch thick mirror (6mm minimum) or you will get distortion or a "funhouse mirror" effect.
It will be heavy, but if you go with a thinner mirror, you will probably get distortion.
Click to expand...

I agree, I suggest you use at least 0.25 or thicker.
 
6mm polished plate mirror (PPM) attached with mirror mastic to substantial backer (3/4" plywood) with integral cleat hanger. Pocket screws to attach frame to backer. All has to be well engineered to fit together properly.
Best I can remember PPM is about 4 lbs./square foot so you have roughly 112 lbs of glass to hang.
Alternately, the mirror can be attached with mastic directly to the wall and the frame hung from it. Build out of mirror support to depth of rabbet necessary.
 
Wally's post was spot on - however, if you mastic a 4mm mirror to a flat backing, you may be able to use a thinner mirror.

The trick is to have it be flat when adhered and that it stays flat. A small bend can make for an expensive "funhouse" mirror. :)

It would require a substantial frame to support a mirror of that size - and for it to stay intact in handling for delivery and installation. I would attach any hanging support to the backing (if adhered to the mirror) and not to the frame.

Be sure that your fitting surface is not the least bit abrasive because the weight can "burnish" the finish of a frame if it is slid/rotated even the slightest bit. It needs to be picked up and rotated. We would work on top of silicone boards or on top of 3-6 mil poly sheeting taped to the work surface.
 
Thanks for the informative response as always Rob!

It's just so marvelous to have all this wonderful knowledge available on the "G"

In terms of a 3mm (.118") mirror, I was just wondering what would roughly be the largest size if framed you guys would suggest one can safely use for future reference.
 
I did a 48x36 (full sheet) 3mm mirror. It was in a very chunky frame though - about 5.5" wide.
As with all glass, it is more difficult to break than you might think. As long as the edges are clean - no chips. A chip can be a break that is waiting to happen. Also the frame needs to be dead flat. You can tell if it's not by the geometry of the reflections, as mentioned earlier in the thread. If it is curved, even slightly, it means the glass is under chronic stress. A shock such as someone slamming a door can crack it. Also, watch for bumps under the frame rabbet.
 
Thanks for the response and great info, much appreciated.

prospero said:
I did a 48x36 (full sheet) 3mm mirror. It was in a very chunky frame though - about 5.5" wide.
As with all glass, it is more difficult to break than you might think. As long as the edges are clean - no chips. A chip can be a break that is waiting to happen. Also the frame needs to be dead flat. You can tell if it's not by the geometry of the reflections, as mentioned earlier in the thread. If it is curved, even slightly, it means the glass is under chronic stress. A shock such as someone slamming a door can crack it. Also, watch for bumps under the frame rabbet.
Click to expand...
 
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