What the best Glue?

Create a Post
Ceefive

Ceefive

Grumbler
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Posts
29
Location
North Massachusetts
Hands down, what is the very best glue out there for frames and where is the best place to get it? Thanks
 
I like corner weld for framing.You can get it from united, M&M, many vendors that have some supplies carry it

PL
 
Hmmmmmmmm ... that's a very general question.

Wood frames? Plastic frames? End wrapped liners? Just for joining the frame? Or for attaching fillets? Or for mounting art and/or objects? Other? Etc., etc., etc.

Kinda all depends!

umm.gif
 
egg whites....great bond and archival


actually I'm a Titebond II kinda gal ;)
 
I use titebond 11 too. Doesn't Corner Weld melt the finish if it gets on it? And isn't it kind of Fumey?

I want to steer as clear a spossible of toxins in my shop. now where did I put that UnSeal?
 
OK Jerry, I'll get a bottle and try it out! I'm running low on my TiteBond bottle anyway and need a new bottle soon,

IS anyone using Gorilla Glue? Or the Hot Glue system?
 
I tried the hot glue system from 3M several years ago based on a recommendation from a Grumbler. It was an absolute waste of money. The ProSpray that came out at the same time I feel in love with.


Beware of using Gorilla Glue on miter joints, it expands as it dries.

Don't ask me how I know. :(
 
And if some of the corner weld should dry on the surface you can wash it off with a damp rag and lots of easy rubbing. I also use a fine toothe brush to help remove squeeze out.
 
I've always used Lee Valley Tool's "Cabinetmaker's Glue 2002 GF" for my wood frames. It also works well on MDF type frames as well (e.g. Framerica) . You can purchase it from their website www.leevalleytools.com
 
Bob - I have never had much luck with the hot glue system. I signed up 3 years ago in Vegas and could never achieve the same results they did. Also expensive as some of the 3M glue tubes cooled and would not reheat for later application.

Ceefive - I have had great results with MAXIM Blue, 1 minute set-up, 15 minute bond. Dries clear, water clean up, no fumes and works every time.
thumbsup.gif
thumbsup.gif
thumbsup.gif
 
How does one determine which glue is best? Do you do actually do pull tests on miters with different woods? Do you pull perpendicular to the mitre or diagonally across the miter (like the weight of the glass in the frame)? Or do you bend a corner at some angle more or less than 90°? Or... do you do a wrack torsional test of some kind?

How fast or slow do you stress the corners? Steady pull or impact?

Do you artificially age the samples? How do you do this? Temperature? Humidity levels?

Is the miter sawed (rough), sawed and sanded (pretty smooth), chopped (very smooth)? How much pressure across the miter?
Glued and held in a vise? How long? Glued and V-nailed?,
Thumbnailed? Brads?

Is anybody interested in developing some test methods and having some tests run with different glues? I think the test methods should reflect the anticipated stresses on frames. Perhaps several different tests should be run to really get some good data.

Or shall we just keep asking the same questions over and over and get the same kind of well intentioned but anectdotal answers?

Contact me if you really want to know and we'll get something going.
 
Alright, Greg, you can do the glue tests, but only when we conclusively decide which backing paper and attachment method of said backing paper is the best. ;)

And if we get bogged down, may I suggest we contact Al Gore.
 
I am into a little extra working time, as with some mouldings will give you a little trouble from time to time getting together perfect. After all is set, I am looking for an extremely strong bond. I am using mostly basswood. So bottom line is working time/strong bond.
 
Originally posted by Ceefive:
Is there an order no. for Cornerweld? I searched my catalog and the website and cannot find Cornerweld glue.
Click to expand...
Do you have a Larson Juhl account? I get mine there.
kaffeetrinker_2.gif
 
Originally posted by Greg Fremstad:

Is anybody interested in developing some test methods and having some tests run with different glues? I think the test methods should reflect the anticipated stresses on frames. Perhaps several different tests should be run to really get some good data.
Click to expand...
Let's call in the 'Mythbusters' guys! I'm sure they could come up with some very interesting tests to do. How well does the corner joint hold up when it's shot out of a cannon, or hit with a bowling ball dropped from 50 feet?
 
...or dropped by the customer on the way out to the car? Or hit with a football in the living room? Or when "it just fell off the wall all by itself!" Or when I forget to v-nail it before it gets fitted? Or after it sits in a storage unit in Yuma, Arizona for 5 years? Or.....(next...)
 
Used Cornerweld for years, switched to Maxim for a few years. Joints come apart nice with both.

About a year ago we ran out of Maxim... but I had a gallon of Frank's Fabric adhesive... refilled the squeeze bottle....

Now if the frame has to be pulled apart and shaved down... we just order a new frame.. especially if I roll all eight faces then put it together. Any squeeze-out is cleaned up with a Q-tip and water.

at $32/gallon it's on every one of my tables. And the roller in a baggie floats about too.
 
"And the roller in a baggie floats about too"

common guy.....cant y'ALL come up with the price of a roller for each one???? man, they cant be THAT pricey!!!!!!!

btw--whats the 'dry' time for that stuff?????
 
One other thing, and I know this is obvious to many (most?), but I have run across several framers who did not understand, so I'll mention it anyway. Irrespective of what make of wood glue is used it should be applied to the entire face of the joint. A dab in the middle is just not sufficient!

Again very obviously but I have watched framers do just the opposite especially when handling large frames with big mouldings, the joint should not be disturbed while the glue sets up!

In my book, good process is probably more critical than brand (of quality product).
 
What Andrew said.

I am another convert from Franklin titebond wood glue (yellow) to Cornerweld (white.) I wish Corner grabbed a little more quickly, though. Does Maxim have a faster initial grab time?

Greg, I remember Marc Lizer doing a series of glue bond tests a few years back.

edie the stickwithme goddess
 
edie the tryityoumightlikeit goddess

MAXIM Blue (not the same as MAXIUM) 1 minute set- up, 15 minute bond, dries clear and water clean-up.

There is also a MAXIM Red which I believe has a 5 minute set-up kind of a thing.

danny boy

icon21.gif
icon21.gif
icon21.gif
 
Interesting. There are a number of people who state that they get the CornerWeld glue at Unioted, yet it is not in the catalog or website. A phone call to them informs me that they don't carry it at all. Where's the next best place to get it?
 
Originally posted by Ceefive:
Interesting. There are a number of people who state that they get the CornerWeld glue at Unioted, yet it is not in the catalog or website. A phone call to them informs me that they don't carry it at all. Where's the next best place to get it?
Click to expand...
They used to years ago but they came out with their own brand of quick set PVA glue and sell it under the name of "Maximum" glue.

Close but no infringement.

Framerguy
 
My #1 choice is CornerWeld through LJ as mentioned.

When you need glue fast, Titebond White (which I'm currently using) is available at hardware stores. The Titebond White dries clear just like CornerWeld and is less runny and grabs a little quicker... wait... maybe TiteBond White is my favorite now that I'm thinking about it.

My #1 is Titebond White.
 
I'm hoping that Baer is not just blowing smoke. After talking with him I started using Frank's Fabric for all sort's of uses except for frames...I've got a gallon of Maxim 1-15 to use up first.

I use Frank's (which incidently I call Frank's Fabulous Fabric Adhesive) for the following:

1.) Fabric coverings
2.) Dust cover adhesive
3.) Joining mats
4.) Adhering my plastic business cards to the back of the dustcovers.
5.) Adhering brass engraved plates to frames and mats.
6.) Mixing with wood putty when I want it to harden
7.) ...and a multitude of other uses.


I have yet to find a use that it isn't suitable for and was quite surprised how it could adhere the shellaced brass plates to a frame.

It is extremely quick to dry, dries clear and completely cures in less than an hour. Cleans up easily with water. It reactivates with heat and can be used to dry mount many different materials.

I just spoke to Frank about its ph and he said that it tests slightly acidic, but after it cures tests have shown that the acidity doesn't migrate. It therefore is not truly archival or reversible, but usable in the majority of what I do.

I stopped buying ATG tape and can't think what I'd use it for anymore.

Looking forward to using it for frame corners as it dries faster than the 1-15 Maxim.

Dave Makielski

Post Script to Frank...if you spell my name wrong on the check you send, don't worry about it...my bank's use to it!
 
It's like the Quest For Perfection in any number of ways .... for example, I have an ongoing search for The Perfect Cole Slaw .... so far, the standard by which all others are measured is from a coffee shop in San Fran from the 70's called Pam Pam East (or West, maybe .... it's been awhile) .... not shaved, somewhat chunky, not overly sweet .... downright Manna ....
 
So it looks like we have a concensus then, Elmer Franks Maximum Corner Titebond it is... but don't forget those wedges!
 
Originally posted by FramingFool:
I'd like to hear about a direct comparison between Maxim Blue and Cornerweld .... has anyone been there?
Click to expand...
I did a heads up test of my own three years ago. I found very little difference between the two except for grab time. I just could not justify in my mind the difference in price to save a very little amount of time.

Most of my joining is with a V-nailer and the nails hold the joint until the glue dries anyway.

CornerWeld won me over. Also LJ delivers it and I pay no shipping cost.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top