Table Saw Upgrade

Shayla

WOW Framer
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Washington State
When ripping out frames to widen rabbets, we've been using a lightweight 'contractor-style' table saw. We only do it a couple dozen times a year, but it's a hassle to use, so we're upgrading. Here's what we're looking at, and are interested in hearing about yours.

 
The horsepower appears to be "peak HP" vs continuous HP. Note the 14 awg power cord is marginal for a 2 hp saw. Continuous service of 2 hp is about 1500 watts. A 120v 15A circuit is rated at 1800 watts.
 
Looks like you made a good choice.
I had something like this. I liked the movability of it and the extended table came in handy for so much not to mention router ability.
cid:314FCAE6-9BB6-46B4-91B9-E93D6A980FB4
 
I have seen this saw come up in a couple of Reddit posts in the last day or so.
Seems to be a good saw.
We will probably get a Sawstop the next time we need to upgrade.
Our current Contractor saw started causing the circuit to flip about 2 weeks ago.
Took apart the switch to see that there might be a shorting issue, and I have always hated the original switch, so I replaced it, and the saw works fine again.
 
1967 Powermatic Model 66 Cabinet saw with a Biesemeyer fence. 10" with original 2 HP GE motor 220V Single Phase. Cast iron construction except for the cabinet. Weight is in the 600-700 lb range, but it is on castors and can be moved around the shop floor a bit. Moving it to another location means disassembly.
I have worked with this saw since 1980 or there abouts. I got it from it's last owner about 10 years ago. Quiet, vibration free, and cuts smooth as silk with a Quinn 40 tooth rip blade.
It also kicks like a mule with that GE motor if you aren't paying attention. It's 2 real HP, not "peak". Pre-OSHA, so no safety features, but I still have all my fingers.

Grizzly makes some decent machines, and it would certainly be an upgrade from a portable model. The Powermatic saws aren't as well made as they once were. Another good cabinet saw is the Delta Unisaw.

If all you are doing is enlarging rabbets, a decent router table would do the job and take up much less space.
If you are looking for greater capacity, a cabinet saw is a very versatile tool.
Woodworks by John uses a table saw to make a lot of his profiles including the cove panels.
 
Our current Contractor saw started causing the circuit to flip about 2 weeks ago.
Took apart the switch to see that there might be a shorting issue, and I have always hated the original switch, so I replaced it, and the saw works fine again.
Sometimes the motor needs cleaning, simply blowing the dust out of the impeller area can make a big difference.
 
If you have the cash, you really can't go wrong with a Delta Unisaw. They aren't quite what they were 40 years ago, but they are very nice. We have the Biesemeyer fence on ours and it's fantastic. Yuo do need to watch the voltage and amperage, depending on what you have available for electric. I'm not sure that a Unisaw is available with a 120v motor.

And if you don't want to spend so much, look for a used one - it's almost impossible to wear one out. As long as it turns on and there is no runout on the arbor (I'm sure Dirk knows how to check that) you really can't go wrong. The only thing with a used one is that it may not have the Biesemeyer fence. Of course, it can be added, for around $500.
 
Shayla

Like you we were using a contractors saw for utility - rips and such. We purchased that exact Grizzly saw about two years ago, and have been very pleased with it. It runs very smoothly, the fence locks and measures accurately, and it has plenty of power (110v motor) for whatever we need.
Consider a dedicated dust collector, we bought their wall mount one, if you are a bit on the tidy side like we are.
Mark
Superior
Minneapolis
 
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