Static Mounting with Optium Acrylic Sandwich

MerpsMom

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Okay, now where were we? And okay, that was unnecessary. It's been awhile since I've logged on and now I need some advice from the best.

I have three old documents which the customer wants sandwiched between two panes. If I recall, I'll use Optium but will my recollection that static will hold each in its place be correct? I'd feel more comfortable with a tiny dot of hinging but since it's visible from both sides, that's not my ideal.

Will someone please give me some tips? I'll be framing the sandwich. Hope you all have been well.

Cathie Simmons
 
Oh, look! An "old" buddy! Good to "see" you here as well, Bob. I'm still kicking around although most of my reliable clients have ridden off into one of two sunsets. Some here have been framing longer by far than I since I'm a newbie at 36 years. I will take some time to re-up browsing. Meantime, hope to get a fast answer on that sandwich question. :)
 
Welcome back, Cathie!

Acrylic is the correct glazing material for "sandwich" framing, and uncoated acrylic will provide some static, depending on humidity. However, Optium is coated and will provide no more static charge than glass. In any case, I suggest not relying on static to hold anything, because the static charge becomes stronger and weaker as the humidity changes. That is, it would probably work when the air is very dry, but would probably fail when humidity is high.

To hold a sheet of paper between to pieces of glazing, I suggest placing tiny (1/16" or less) dots of a heavy acrylic gel onto the inside of both glazing sheets near the corners of the paper sheet. Let the dots dry thoroughly. The acrylic dots will have a slight grip and, since they are raised above the surfaces of the glazing sheets, they will exert slight pressure on the paper when the sheets are pressed together.

Or, if you want framing that is more appropriate for documents of value, I suggest these alternatives:

1. Make high-quality reproductions to frame, and the owner can keep the original in safe packaging.
2. If you must frame the original document, I suggest using 1/8" square, neodymium (rare-earth) cube magnets Super-glued to the inside surface of the glazing sheets. That way, you can separate the glazing sheets by using 1/4" spacers, so the glazing will not press against the document.

Hope that is useful for you.
 
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I second scanning the artwork and framing the copies.

Sandwiching rarely works on anything and the usual result is a crumpled piece of artwork and a disappointed or irate customer.

Old documents are also often printed on paper of questionable quality using inks of a similar standard and exposing them to light, even through so-called "protective" glazing could well lead to fading or rapid ageing.

The best place for storing them to guarantee their longevity is between two pieces of museum grade card in a dark drawer.
 
I second scanning the artwork and framing the copies.

Sandwiching rarely works on anything and the usual result is a crumpled piece of artwork and a disappointed or irate customer.

Old documents are also often printed on paper of questionable quality using inks of a similar standard and exposing them to light, even through so-called "protective" glazing could well lead to fading or rapid ageing.

The best place for storing them to guarantee their longevity is between two pieces of museum grade card in a dark drawer.
 
So warming to hear from all three of you. Very interesting takes on the dox and I'll have fun doing them😀👍. I know she'll go originals so there ya go. I'll also find out more about their origins.

The G brings back so many memories 🥰🥰😚
 
Jim, you have a brand name for the heavy acrylic gel? And if using magnets, my brain sketch says 8, but I don't think I'm reading it right. I haven't had to think for awhile as everything's been boring work.😁
 
Welcome back Cathie!
The mylar might work, but might be unnecessary when you use two pieces of plexiglass.

Jim, with the dots of acrylic gel (and I assume you mean the acrylic medium?), would that not restrict the paper too much. Is there enough allowance for the paper to expand and contract?
 
Jim, you have a brand name for the heavy acrylic gel?
Acrylic Gel Medium.webp

Most art materials companies sell similar material. It can also be useful for certain object mounting where you might be tempted to use silicone.
:cool: Rick
 
Welcome back Cathie!
The mylar might work, but might be unnecessary when you use two pieces of plexiglass.
I agree that Mylar might not be a good choice. Suspending the document between the acrylic sheets would look best, i believe.
Jim, with the dots of acrylic gel (and I assume you mean the acrylic medium?), would that not restrict the paper too much. Is there enough allowance for the paper to expand and contract?
That's a possibility if the glazing sheets are pressed tightly enough to compress the acrylic dots, but the paper should be able to move between them. The dots are not performing as an adhesive to the paper, but like tiny fingers to support it. Magnets may have a firmer grip on the paper.
 
And if using magnets, my brain sketch says 8, but I don't think I'm reading it right.
Yes, one pair for each corner of the paper sheet. In my limited experience, it's easiest to use cyanoacrylate (aka CA or Superglue) to attach only the four magnets to the inside of the back glazing sheet, then allow the front four magnets to hold freely to the back four with the paper in between. Using 1/4" or 3/8" spacers, the front four magnets may not even contact the front glazing sheet.
 
I'm hesitant to use magnets, for this reason. If overly tight hinges can cause warping, it seems like magnets would do the same.
As discussed in that recent thread about mounting a knife, magnets have only limited resistance to sliding motions. So, in ambient conditions that force expansion/contraction cycles, the paper could slide between them. Also, since there's no adhesive on the top magnet, it can move with the paper. A quick experiment can show how this works.

Magnetic Mounting Systems for Museums and Cultural Institutions is an excellent book on the subject.

Rapid and/or radical ambient changes are harmful to almost anything framed, and should be avoided as much as possible. As always, slowing the rate of change minimizes the potential expansion/contraction problems.
 
I remember why I love this place. :) Here's my brain wandering around.
I tested the acrylic gel method and really like it. But the issue is now the acrylic. Optium Museum is...of course...ridiculously expensive. But if sandwiching the document, you can't use it on just the front piece. Both pieces of the "plexi" have to match since Optium Museum is like Museum glass. If trying to save money, you can't? If you put Museum acrylic on top but use a lesser product on the back, you'll see the difference, right? Now...you can't use glass because it's bad practice to place glass directly on top of a document which is why we use mats. Is there any way out of this dilemma? Somewhere I saw using a teeny width as a mat sandwich and then be able to use glass. This doesn't give the look of a float.

I await better thoughts than mine. This is one of my oldest and best clients and I'm enjoying the challenge!
 
Have the client decide after explaining this

I had that bit of a hesitancy selling optium at first. However, ever since you can order smaller sizes of it, I have been selling more and more of it

Check the pricing on smaller sheets.

And yes, I would use same on both sides.

If you do want to use glass, you will need spacers
 
Hi, Yiva :). I have three different floats. For the three and cut-to-fit, it's $253. to me for single layer. So about $500 for the sandwiches material., And that's my raw cost. Haven't figured mark-up yet. I'm wondering just how thick the spacers would have to be to keep glass from touching art. And how that would look, as you'd see them. This will be very expensive and I'm trying to come up with alternatives if she faints with the Museum O. I might experiment with the acrylic gel trick thicker but it's not easy to make it look good. Clear bumpers?? Now you get into an inflexible product with the glass and spacer thickness. Put that in the frame now :)
 
The other thing they can consider, is not float between two pieces of glass or plexiglass. Is there a specific reason for that? I would suggest doing a double mat if they need to see the back once in a while.
If it's just because they like it (and oh gosh, how I hope this aging trend will completely retire soon) I would point out that it truly is not the best way to preserve this.

I would just quote with double Optium, and another quote with mat and museum glass. Then they can decide what they would like to do.
 
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