Nielsen Metal Frames for Oversize Piece?

H

Higgins

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Aug 17, 2021
Posts
6
Loc
Chapel Hill NC
Business
Higgins & Myers
I have a project for three works on paper that will be roughly 30x50 (for one) and 25x40 (for two). The client wants a thin metal frame but the welded steel and aluminum profiles are out of her budget. Are the Nielsen frames suitable for projects this large? I'm concerned about weight and also torque. We'll be using acrylic, so it won't be as heavy as glass but I'm still worried about the corners holding up over time. I'm also worried about bend and flex on the long sides. I figure I can reinforce the corners with JB Weld (or the like) and add extra wires for bracing but is that enough? Can I sell her one of those profiles safely? I'm thinking of some of the sturdier ones (the 117s, 21s or 24s). I'd love some input!
 
All the weight in the frame will be held by the bottom corners. I've put D-rings near the bottom corners and on the vertical rails a few inches down from the top. Attach wire to the bottom rail, up through the top D-ring, make a loop and hang on a wall hook on either side. Adjust levelness by sliding the bottom D-ring left or right. There are no forces on the top, side or bottom rails to make them bow.
 
Use a deeper profile and a strainer frame.
IMG_0151.webp
The welded metal frames do that for their strength, and to have something to attach hanging hardware.
If you want a shallower frame a flat profile moulding can work as a strainer if cut with the lip on the outside.
IMG_0150.webpIt's best if you have the capability to modify the rabbet so the lip extends fully into the channel of the metal frame.

The weight is also shared by the two frames
 
I’ve framed numerous oversized pieces just fine with thin Nielsen moulding.

Biggest risk in my mind is a long length bowing if picked up the wrong way, allowing the acrylic to pop out. In this case add some snap rings and stretch wire across to behave like a strainer. You could stretch it across 2 or four points.
 
Higgins said:
I have a project for three works on paper that will be roughly 30x50 (for one) and 25x40 (for two). I'm thinking of some of the sturdier ones (the 117s, 21s or 24s). I'd love some input!
Click to expand...
Those are all single wall profiles. I would not consider them being stronger. They will twist and bend just like #11 or #15 profile as the wall thickness are basically the same. They should all have a mechanically secured "wood strainer" to the aluminum, possibly with screws through the metal and into the wood.
For a metal only profile their double wall designs offer more structural support( #95 - #97 - #130). Your client will have to make the final decision.
 
Back
Top