Mounting a large shell casing

[bigshapes]

I need to mount several of these large engraved shell casings. They’re open at one end and slightly tapered.

I know epoxy will do it but I’d love to avoid permanently marring them. I also assume I could craft brass fixtures to wrap around the recessed bits, but could be a bit labor intensive.

How would y’all tackle these?

 

[RoboFramer]

I’d cut a “tongue” out of the mounting board, the length of the case. The case would slide on to it and also nestle in the gap the tongue came from.
Then I’d secure it with a melinex strap around that groove at the bottom.

Failing that, the same melinex strap in the groove and another at the top, same width as it, probably a small aperture behind to prevent any movement.

 

[Bruce Papier]

We stitched those down with lightweight fishing line going into the groove at the tail end and around the tapered end. The grooved end gave the grip and the other just stablized the casing.

 

[artfolio]

Korbond invisible thread comes to mind. A loop around the base groove and another around the neck of the casing tied off behind the backing matt would be almost invisible.

Of more interest to me is the likely design of the display. Lining them up along a "shelf" as Roboframer suggests would be simple and functional but if you are planning something more elaborate maybe you could incorporate some other military itemsl ike badges or insignia?

 

[bigshapes]

Great responses. I think the only thing that is still bugging me is the fact that it is tapered. I would love to mount them so the center of the casing runs parallel to the backing, which would require a little stool for the narrower end to sit on.

Attached is a very rough idea of the composition.

 

[RoboFramer]

You could easily fashion a small piece of something for the thin end to rest on, preferably out of sight.
You could also sink the thicker end slightly.

 

[Echobelly]

I had to mount something similar recently, only there were no grooves to wrap a thread into. I ended up using hot glue. I tested it and it holds tight yet peels off without leaving any damage. The conservator we worked with on the project suggested it.

 

[wpfay]

Using hot glue is fine in this instance as long as the glue used is electrical grade so it won't cause any corrosion.
3M makes the product I use. It was developed to coat solder joints when precious metal wiring is in use. It has a very specific glue gun that should be used.
Poly Gun LT

 

[Bruce Papier]

You could use bent wire supports for the tapered side. That's a little more complicated though.

 

[artfolio]

Hot glue also comes in a low temperature composition which can be released by warming it in boiling water. I use this for fitting points to arrows and it would not harm brass cartidge cases.

A sneaky design change might be useful:

How about reversing the right hand shells to point inwards then skewing all of them so that the top ones point slightly upwards and the lower ones point slightly downwards? This way if one is slightly out of position it would be less noticeable.

Some people with eagle eyes will pick anything a millimetre or so out of line and obsess over it forever.

 

[bigshapes]

Thanks all. I found Talas carries some conservation-friendly hot glue sticks, so I'll give those a whirl. Then I may use a tiny bit of clear plastic spacer to prop up the tapered end.