Magazine Mount

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Larry01

Larry01

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Hi All,


I have a magazine which as customer would like mounted. I only have a picture at this stage but it looks like it's in good condition. I haven't yet framed a mag but I am thinking that the DCO clear film wrap would be best? I have Jims book and it says to use double sided tape to attach to the backing, will this hold a standard size magazine? Would stitching through the film/backing give a stronger hold? Any tips or other suggestions of methods to mount would be great.

Cheers!!
 
Are they going to put a mat around it? If so, I'd do a sink mat. Just build spacers around the magazine equal to it's thickness and put the mat over it. You may want to have the opening of the mat overlap the edge of the magazine a bit more than usual if the design of the cover will allow.
 
The clear film wrap is perfect.

Maybe you have an early copy if Jim’s book as I’m sure he changed the method to have the first wrap pass through the mounting board.
Anyway, even if you do it as per the book you have, it doesn’t really matter what adhesive you use; to fix clear film it would probably need to be spirit-based, just use dots of it in addition to a few bits of DS tape to hold in place until it dries.

A sink mount would lose the third dimension - it would look no different than a copy of the front cover, matted.
 
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This is a great how-to video. I've framed quite a few magazines and books. I don't wrap the mylar around the front cover, it's too shiny and is distracting. I just do the pass behind the cover and through slots in the backing board. I set the magazine front about 1/8" behind the glazing, that keeps it from opening.
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Jim Miller's "clear polyester film book mount" technique is perfect for magazines. I just did the book mount on a chunky old screenplay, maybe 3/4" thick? I passed the flaps of the vertical mylar strip through slots in my float mat and it held great. I think the 3M #889 tape he recommends in his book is hard to find now, but from my PPFA class, 3M #415 was recommended and is what I keep in the shop for using with mylar based mounts. Make sure you burnish it with a bone folder for maximum adhesion.
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Echobelly said:
.I've framed quite a few magazines and books. I don't wrap the mylar around the front cover, it's too shiny and is distracting. I just do the pass behind the cover and through slots in the backing board. I set the magazine front about 1/8" behind the glazing, that keeps it from opening.
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There are a few ways the cover could be prevented from coming in to contact with the glass other than a complete wrap, but I don’t find that distracting anyway.
Many magazine covers are glossy to start with and reflections are only visible from some angles and mostly blocked by your own body when viewing
 

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These all look great! Thank you. I think I’ll try a test on an old magazine first. I agree, I don’t mind the glossy look either. What type of glazing is preferred, does the film create more reflections?
 
This
Echobelly said:
This is a great how-to video. I've framed quite a few magazines and books. I don't wrap the mylar around the front cover, it's too shiny and is distracting. I just do the pass behind the cover and through slots in the backing board. I set the magazine front about 1/8" behind the glazing, that keeps it from opening.
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Click to expand...

this is awesome! Super simple 🙏🏼
 
Important:
Clear polyester film is extruded onto large rolls, so it always has curvature. Always place the film with the convex side against the item, so it lays flat.

If you place the film on a flat surface, such as a book or magazine, with the convex side out, it would not lay flat. The slightly bubbled film would amplify reflections.

Complete, illustrated instructions are in the Shadowbox book.
 
Jim Miller said:
Important:
Clear polyester film is extruded onto large rolls, so it always has curvature. Always place the film with the convex side against the item, so it lays flat.

If you place the film on a flat surface, such as a book or magazine, with the convex side out, it would not lay flat. The slightly bubbled film would amplify reflections.

Complete, illustrated instructions are in the Shadowbox book.
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Ah yes that makes sense. I have the shadowbox book too so will have a read, thanks Jim!
 
Hi David,

That's a very useful method. Here's a 2008 example of exactly what you described, using a vertical wrap of Mylar to support the whole newspaper, with a sheet of 4-ply matboard under the top page for rigidity, and Museum Optium Acrylic glazing. It's basically a modified book mount, replacing the horizontal wrap of Mylar with an acrylic DCO mount.
 

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Echobelly said:
This is a great how-to video. I've framed quite a few magazines and books. I don't wrap the mylar around the front cover, it's too shiny and is distracting. I just do the pass behind the cover and through slots in the backing board. I set the magazine front about 1/8" behind the glazing, that keeps it from opening.
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Click to expand...

Oh Gee, wish I would have thought of that! Oh yeah, I did.
 
Larry01 said:
This

this is awesome! Super simple 🙏🏼
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I had a customer show me this the other day.
What is the UV rating of the Mylar?
How do you keep the rest of frame interior from getting damaged?

We ended up doing the same mounting method, just with UV glass.
 
Jim Miller said:
I don't know the actual percentage, but clear polyester film (Mylar) has no useful UV filtering capability.
My suggestion is to use UV filtering glass or acrylic.
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Yep. That's the plan.
The designs in the video do not have glass, as you can touch the mylar with the frame on.
Not sure if that was just done for reflection in the video, but it was misleading to my customer.
 
RoboFramer said:
Yes, around 2006. I have 7 1111/2 hours of demonstrations on my videos so there is not much that I haven't covered ..I've taught classes and demonstrated all these methods for years and I don't mind that people use them. But it would be nice if they wouldn't take credit for the ideas. Magazines were one of the first I did when we brought out Invisi-Mount on to the market. But it would be nice if they wouldn't take credit for the ideas. The only reason I haven't put them on Youtube is because the cost to make them was thousands. All 5 are added to my big kits on a flash drive with all the parts they need to do all the different processes. It's been almost 25 years now and I've managed to stay on my feet and keep going from some party hard times. Covid being one of them. Hopefully we can weather this latest coming storm.
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I first read about the method from posts by Jim Miller, here’s one pre 2006 and there’s many before it too.


Framar

Thread 'Encapsulation Problem!'

So I finally got to use that roll of Mylar (Melinex) that I bought a year ago! I thought it would be the perfect solution for that aforementioned two-sided Chagall.

I encapsulated the painting (ink on maybe 80-100 lb. paper) with no problems - first try! I matted it in linen with a shallow filet on the front, rag mat for the back picture. Mirogard AR/UV on front, regular glass on back. (customer only wanted to be able to see the art on the back upon occasion when they take it off the wall.)

I also sealed the entire package with lineco metal tape (that grey stuff) before I installed...
 
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alacrity8 said:
Yep. That's the plan.
The designs in the video do not have glass, as you can touch the mylar with the frame on.
Not sure if that was just done for reflection in the video, but it was misleading to my customer.
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I'm sure Mo did that to avoid reflections in the video and to simplify his quick assembly for demonstration. I believe he said glass would be added for final assembly.
Always use glazing to keep clean, reduce the harm of light, and to slow the rate of ambient changes inside the closed frame.
 
RoboFramer said:
I first read about the method from posts by Jim Miller, here’s one pre 2006 and there’s many before it too.


Framar

Thread 'Encapsulation Problem!'

So I finally got to use that roll of Mylar (Melinex) that I bought a year ago! I thought it would be the perfect solution for that aforementioned two-sided Chagall.

I encapsulated the painting (ink on maybe 80-100 lb. paper) with no problems - first try! I matted it in linen with a shallow filet on the front, rag mat for the back picture. Mirogard AR/UV on front, regular glass on back. (customer only wanted to be able to see the art on the back upon occasion when they take it off the wall.)

I also sealed the entire package with lineco metal tape (that grey stuff) before I installed...
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From what I can tell we are not even talking about the same thing. I have been demonstrating the method used on this video for a very long time to hundreds of shop owners. Never once has anyone said that they saw my method anywhere else. But I have had people tell me that my methods were being used in some of the educators in their classes. They knew where they came from because they had my videos. I'm not saying that I am the only one who has good ideas, but after 25 years I shouldn't have to keep defending myself. My main goal has always bee to help make a framers life easier. Hopefully I have done that. Jim Miller has sent many people to me for help and for that I am very grateful. I purposely don't have any of his books and have never seen any demonstrations he has done. In that way I can't be accused of copying his ideas. If for some reason we overlap on some method it is only by accident. Sometimes great minds think alike.
 
We’re talking about the same thing and you’re not being attacked do you don’t need your defend yourself.

It reads from your comment on the video posted above that the clear film magazine mount - ie the subject of this thread - was your idea, I was interested to find out if that was true - it’s not true so maybe I misunderstood what you meant but when I asked if it was you who came up with it first you said yes, so I’m not sure who is confused actually - especially if you think we may not even be talking about the same thing!
 
RoboFramer said:
We’re talking about the same thing and you’re not being attacked do you don’t need your defend yourself.

It reads from your comment on the video posted above that the clear film magazine mount - ie the subject of this thread - was your idea, I was interested to find out if that was true - it’s not true so maybe I misunderstood what you meant but when I asked if it was you who came up with it first you said yes, so I’m not sure who is confused actually - especially if you think we may not even be talking about the same thing!
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Quite frankly, I've lost track of what the question was. I think it was....was I first with the method that is being shown on that video? Yes I'm pretty sure I was.
 
Mylar encapsulation was discussed on this forum as early as 2001. It originated in the 1970's as a conservation method for fragile documents when Bill Minter developed a method of using an ultrasonic welder to seal two sheets of Mylar around delicate items like maps and documents.
 
Encapsulation of a single-page item is a different process than the magazine/newspaper/book mount that this thread started out discussing.
:coffeedrinker2: Rick

As to the "originator" of a mounting technique, processes can be discovered or devised independently at the same time. This isn't a competition. We are all here to help one another learn and share knowledge. Just sayin'.
 
I wasn't talking about encapsulation methods using Mylar. That goes back a long ways. I was referring to the method he was showing on his video. It's almost exactly like the one I have been showing for years on mounting magazines, paperback books, and paper documents, that I started showing when I was introducing Invisi-mount I've shown it to hundreds of people in the last 9 years. It looks like he is using Mylar, but the demo is the same. I can't keep people from copying my ideas, but it is frustrating to go on You Tube and see my ideas being copied and treated as if they are the ones who came up with them. Many times we have sold our kits with all 5 video's 7 1/2 hours hours of demonstrations on them . The next thing I know my dem's end up on You Tube. made by the one who bought my kit. The only way I've managed to stay in business all these years is to stay one step ahead of those who have tried to take me down.. And there is always someone out there waiting in the wings to take advantage of something that isn't theirs to use.
 
I was referring to Robo's post about the encapsulation thread from 2004 :)
 
cvm said:
Mylar encapsulation was discussed on this forum as early as 2001. It originated in the 1970's as a conservation method for fragile documents when Bill Minter developed a method of using an ultrasonic welder to seal two sheets of Mylar around delicate items like maps and documents.
Click to expand...
Yes, there's nothing new about using clear polyester film in document conservation and framing. In the late 80's, when I started my storefront framing business, I studied everything I could find that was related. That's about the time the sandwich of clear polyester film (Mylar-D) with ultrasonic-welded edges came to my attention, as I was looking for safe & reversible ways to mount documents. Since I didn't have an ultrasonic welder or hundreds of dollars to buy one, I experimented with tapes and 3M #415 was the best choice. (3M #889 came out later.) The technique has worked well for a long time.

The revelation about using clear polyester film for taped-encapsulation of documents got me started on all kinds of experiments. Among the best results were Clear Film Straps, Spider Mounts, and the Clear Film Book Mount. Since the genesis of book mounting is being discussed here, I checked some old computer backups and found the instructions and drawing attached here. I doubt this was my first publication on the technique, but it certainly is among the early ones.

The Clear Film Book Mount was an integral part of The Complete Guide To Shadowboxes and Framing Objects lecture/workshop series from the outset, which was presented at every West Coast Art & Frame Show (now WCAF Expo) from 2000 (the first one) through 2020, as well as other framing-education venues through the years.

It doesn't matter who invented the techniques, but it's good to know that they have proved useful to a lot of framers for a long time, and will likely endure.
 

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