how much should i pay for a CTD dbl mitre w 10" blades
- Thread starter msails
- Start date
Rob Markoff
PFG, Picture Framing God
How old? 110 volt motors or 220 with magnetic starter? What condition - especially the spindles - have you measured the runout? How much free play in the pivot bearings?
Not trying to be snobbbish but used is used and sometimes a new saw is a better value.
The runout (on the spindle) is a critical measurement as it determines the accuracy and quality of the mitre. If they need to be replaced (or resurfaced) it can cost several hundred dollars.
Not trying to be snobbbish but used is used and sometimes a new saw is a better value.
The runout (on the spindle) is a critical measurement as it determines the accuracy and quality of the mitre. If they need to be replaced (or resurfaced) it can cost several hundred dollars.
msails, you should pay attention to Rob's suggestions, when you check out the saw, he's a very knowledgable pro. However, that said, we've been using ours for well over 10 years and it never falters.
stud d
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Also considering a CMC used saw
What is a CMC used saw? CMC is computerized mat cutter...so what does a used saw have to do with it?
I am lost.
PL
What is a CMC used saw? CMC is computerized mat cutter...so what does a used saw have to do with it?
I am lost.
PL
Rob Markoff
PFG, Picture Framing God
Run out is how true to being "flat" or true to vertical the spindles (and blade) are. It can be seen on a blade as "wobble" and the blade can be trued during sharpening by hammering and tensioning the blade (or if it is too bad) from replacement. Blades can get too hot and "warp".
The spindle is what the blades are attached to and the back part of the spindle (slinger) is what the blade rests against. If it is not "true" then the blade will not cut perpendicular and will also wobble. The only way to repair this is to resurface the slinger or replace the spindle. This can also be a sign of worn or damaged bearings. It is measured with a gauge (dial indicator) attached to a magnetic base and the spindle is rotated to see variances in the reading.
The pivot bearings can be tested for slop by moving the pivot up and down while applying pressurr to the left and right. A dial indicator on the blade can also be used, but the blade has to be true to begin with. If the pivot bearings are bad, you will feel it in the ability to move the head of the saw to the left or right as it travels up or down.
A ten year saw should be inspected for this kind of wear, but my saws run all day and do a lot of cutting. My CTD saws are 20+ years old and on one of them we have rebuilt it with new spindles and pivot bearings. The other seems to still be going strong.
The spindle is what the blades are attached to and the back part of the spindle (slinger) is what the blade rests against. If it is not "true" then the blade will not cut perpendicular and will also wobble. The only way to repair this is to resurface the slinger or replace the spindle. This can also be a sign of worn or damaged bearings. It is measured with a gauge (dial indicator) attached to a magnetic base and the spindle is rotated to see variances in the reading.
The pivot bearings can be tested for slop by moving the pivot up and down while applying pressurr to the left and right. A dial indicator on the blade can also be used, but the blade has to be true to begin with. If the pivot bearings are bad, you will feel it in the ability to move the head of the saw to the left or right as it travels up or down.
A ten year saw should be inspected for this kind of wear, but my saws run all day and do a lot of cutting. My CTD saws are 20+ years old and on one of them we have rebuilt it with new spindles and pivot bearings. The other seems to still be going strong.