Has anyone ever made a frame like this with the Hoffman system?

[ijaein]

I'm using the Hoffman system really well. I don't think there's anything like the Hoffman system in Hardwood. Currently, we do not create separate internal frames up to 420 x 594 mm. But now I want to try the giant size. Has anyone ever made a giant size out of Hoffman? ex) I want to make it easy with Hoffman up to 1000mm x 1800mm. In the case of nail guns, I can cut and shoot intuitively, but Hoffman needs to do it exactly, but I'm worried about what to do. Square frames are easy to make, but I don't know where to accurately route Hoffman because of the supporting wood that goes inside them. I miss you, Master Hoffman.

 

[Shayla]

Hi, ikaein. Hopefully, you will receive a reply here. But, you might also try e-mailing this to Hoffman. They are helpful.
You might ask them, 'If you know any framers who make multi-angle frames, could you please help me get in touch?'
(I know that asking here is one way of contacting such framers, but they might have some customers who aren't here.)

 

[wpfay]

Hoffmann does make a multi-angle adjustable fence, and you can do butt, 90 degree, joinery, and angles other than 45s.
Contact Gary or Markus at Hoffmann and they can walk you through it.
I wouldn't be surprised if they had a video tutorial on the process.

 

[David Waldmann]

Hi ijaein,

I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to do, but I am going to guess that you are making what we call (variously) a Strainer, Support or Stiffened frame that goes in the back of a moulding to strengthen it.

If that is the case, while the Hoffmann system can work, as you say - it is a lot of work because it requires precision.

Our solution is to use Hoffmann at the outside miters, and a Pocket Hole system for the inner bars. You will find pocket holes to be quite a bit slower than a nailer but much faster than Hoffmann.

If you still want to use the Hoffman, there are a couple of ways that we've done them.

• Our initial method was to first assemble the outer frame with a strap clamp, then place the inner pieces in position and draw a line (or lines for multiples) across the joint. Then use the Centerline Marker on the Hoffmann machine to route on the lines. The downside is that use of the Centerline Marker is not terribly precise.
• We then introduced a couple of jigs for use with the perpendicular crossbars. Kind of hard to explain in words, but one was designed for the end of 2" wide crossbars - it had two parts, one that clamped into place on the machine and the other was a space to make the second route. The other was for the edge of the outside bars - this one clamped in place on the bar and had stops that referenced the outside of the machine so it would allow movement side-to-side in the same amount as the crossbars. I think I have video of it somewhere if you're interested in this route. However, it's not feasible (without some sort of modification for the angled pieces.

As I said, we've since gone to the pocket hole screw method.

 

[wpfay]

You can use the Hoffmann system, but consider how much of the weight the strainer frame will take on the larger pieces.

When they get to the point of having to use integrated cleat hanging systems, I generally prefer half lap corner joints just to increase the gluing surface.
It's not as critical with the corner bracing and cross bracing (I do use half lap where cross bracing crosses each other), so through screws, pocket screws, and pneumatic finish nails all work fine in conjunction with glue.
As David pointed out, using the Hoffmann for that is going to be slow, or you are going to have to design and build jigs to use with the Hoffmann to decrease production time.

 

[ijaein]

Hi, ikaein. Hopefully, you will receive a reply here. But, you might also try e-mailing this to Hoffman. They are helpful.
You might ask them, 'If you know any framers who make multi-angle frames, could you please help me get in touch?'
(I know that asking here is one way of contacting such framers, but they might have some customers who aren't here.)

Hello I bought Hoffman from abroad, so I can't communicate well Thank you for your answer.

 

[ijaein]

Hoffmann does make a multi-angle adjustable fence, and you can do butt, 90 degree, joinery, and angles other than 45s.
Contact Gary or Markus at Hoffmann and they can walk you through it.
I wouldn't be surprised if they had a video tutorial on the process.

Hoffmann does make a multi-angle adjustable fence, and you can do butt, 90 degree, joinery, and angles other than 45s.
Contact Gary or Markus at Hoffmann and they can walk you through it.
I wouldn't be surprised if they had a video tutorial on the process.

I watched all the YouTube videos. Was there a video tutorial other than YouTube..Wow, let me call them. It seems to me that wppay has already mastered everything Thank you for always giving me a good answer.

 

[ijaein]

Hi ijaein,

I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to do, but I am going to guess that you are making what we call (variously) a Strainer, Support or Stiffened frame that goes in the back of a moulding to strengthen it.

If that is the case, while the Hoffmann system can work, as you say - it is a lot of work because it requires precision.

Our solution is to use Hoffmann at the outside miters, and a Pocket Hole system for the inner bars. You will find pocket holes to be quite a bit slower than a nailer but much faster than Hoffmann.

If you still want to use the Hoffman, there are a couple of ways that we've done them.

• Our initial method was to first assemble the outer frame with a strap clamp, then place the inner pieces in position and draw a line (or lines for multiples) across the joint. Then use the Centerline Marker on the Hoffmann machine to route on the lines. The downside is that use of the Centerline Marker is not terribly precise.
• We then introduced a couple of jigs for use with the perpendicular crossbars. Kind of hard to explain in words, but one was designed for the end of 2" wide crossbars - it had two parts, one that clamped into place on the machine and the other was a space to make the second route. The other was for the edge of the outside bars - this one clamped in place on the bar and had stops that referenced the outside of the machine so it would allow movement side-to-side in the same amount as the crossbars. I think I have video of it somewhere if you're interested in this route. However, it's not feasible (without some sort of modification for the angled pieces.

As I said, we've since gone to the pocket hole screw method.

You pointed out exactly what I'm worried about. That's right. I thought about how to temporarily assemble the outer frame with a clamp and then put the inner molding in place and mark it. I was worried about the precision, as David pointed out. So I tried to make the outer frame and inner frame using KREGR3 pocket hole. I'll study the second tip of the jig Thank you David for always giving us great answers. I always look at your Instagram. From far away in Korea.

 

[ijaein]

You can use the Hoffmann system, but consider how much of the weight the strainer frame will take on the larger pieces.

When they get to the point of having to use integrated cleat hanging systems, I generally prefer half lap corner joints just to increase the gluing surface.
It's not as critical with the corner bracing and cross bracing (I do use half lap where cross bracing crosses each other), so through screws, pocket screws, and pneumatic finish nails all work fine in conjunction with glue.
As David pointed out, using the Hoffmann for that is going to be slow, or you are going to have to design and build jigs to use with the Hoffmann to decrease production time.

You can use the Hoffmann system, but consider how much of the weight the strainer frame will take on the larger pieces.

When they get to the point of having to use integrated cleat hanging systems, I generally prefer half lap corner joints just to increase the gluing surface.
It's not as critical with the corner bracing and cross bracing (I do use half lap where cross bracing crosses each other), so through screws, pocket screws, and pneumatic finish nails all work fine in conjunction with glue.
As David pointed out, using the Hoffmann for that is going to be slow, or you are going to have to design and build jigs to use with the Hoffmann to decrease production time.

wppay. I will study what you said step by step. I'm curious about the jig that you use with Hoffman. Let's go over here a little bit more. Thank you always If you do Instagram, please introduce me I want to be your friend.