Frame extension?

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Nic Packer

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I think I heard these are called frame extensions. Like a frame within a frame. My question is how to attach the inner frame. With points? And how do I know where the outer frame should start? Thanks for all your help!
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That looks similar to an enhancer, here's a snip from Larson Juhl's price catalog:
enhancers.png


Notice the TM behind ENHANCERS, the same type of product could go by other names.

Cut the enhancer to fit the matt/glass as normal.
Then measure to point B of the enhancer to get your width x height to cut the moulding to fit where A(moulding inner edge) and B (enhancer outer edge/shoulder) will be abutting.

It will probably take a few tests to figure out if you need to include a measurement allowance on your saw for a perfect fit.

The attachment could be by nails or screws from the inside of the enhancer into the body of the frame mouldling.
Or if there is a difference in the heights of the two materials, offset clips with screws could work.
 
I don't have anything to contribute on the joining of an enhancer to a frame but have a comment on the enhancers themselves. Some enhancers can be sold as frames by themselves. The enhancer above looks like it is from LJ's Anvil line. I sell two of them in my Etsy shop and they are popular. LJ bills them as "Designed to stand alone or stack, this moulding from the Anvil collection complements the ever popular industrial trend."

Search results for: 'Anvil' https://www.larsonjuhl.com/en-US/catalogsearch/result?q=Anvil&collection_type=1284
 
Larry Peterson said:
I don't have anything to contribute on the joining of an enhancer to a frame but have a comment on the enhancers themselves. Some enhancers can be sold as frames by themselves. The enhancer above looks like it is from LJ's Anvil line. I sell two of them in my Etsy shop and they are popular. LJ bills them as "Designed to stand alone or stack, this moulding from the Anvil collection complements the ever popular industrial trend."

Search results for: 'Anvil' https://www.larsonjuhl.com/en-US/catalogsearch/result?q=Anvil&collection_type=1284
Click to expand...
Isn't that funny. I have used small Anvil profiles in "stacked" frame designs a few times but never thought of them as "enhancers".
But of course, that is essentially what they are!

I don't think the OP photo is of Anvil, however.
Anvil isn't as thick overall, and the rabbet is thinner.
Here's one of the 3 small Anvil "enhancers".
In the Anvil profile the rabbet thichness is about the same dimension as the "drop out" on the opposite side.
In the OP sample, the rabbet thickness is larger than the "drop out" depth.
v0kyfrdhcxqdu2knogl3.png


But, I am picking nits. The OP question was about joining and measuring, not identifying the frame type.
 
I have been doing this for years and years. Fitting profiles together to make bigger frames.

Because most of these frames are plain wood, finished after construction, I firmly glue them together
to make one homogenous section. If you are using pre-finished profiles then it's often desirable to make
them semi-permanent - that is so they can be separated if the needs arises later. A bit gets irreparably
damaged and needs to be replaced you don't want to destroy the entire frame.

I often put painted liners in biggish frames that comprise 2-3 elements. I always fix the liners with small pins
that are driven from the inside of the rabbet and only penetrate 1/8" into the outer frame. This may not seem
very strong, but with maybe 20 pins in it is quite firmly attached. 99% of the time the liner will not have to be
removed, but if it does then it's not too hard to prise it out without damaging the outer frame.
There are many other ways to make things reversible. It's worth considering when making things if you will
ever need to un-make it. Many is the time I have had to write-off mostly good frames to fix a small fault.
 
Prospero said:
If you are using pre-finished profiles then it's often desirable to make
them semi-permanent - that is so they can be separated if the needs arises later. A bit gets irreparably
damaged and needs to be replaced you don't want to destroy the entire frame.
Click to expand...
I bet almost all of us have had to try to take apart a stacked frame that has been permanently air-nailed/stapled. It's the worst!

Prospero said:
99% of the time the liner will not have to be
removed, but if it does then it's not too hard to prise it out without damaging the outer frame.
There are many other ways to make things reversible. It's worth considering when making things if you will
ever need to un-make it.
Click to expand...
Yes, yes, yes! Doing this may save either yourself or some other framer so much work and frustration in the future.
 
Thank you for the help. Part of the difficulty with learning framing is that different companies name their similar products various names, so it can be confusing to know what is being referenced.

Rick Granick said:
Depending on the configurations of the mouldings involved, 1/4" #4 screws thru the holes in Fletcher MultiPoints is a quick, easy, and reversible way to join them.
Click to expand...
Rick: Do you know if there's an easy way to insert the Fletcher MultiPoints without purchasing their $160 insertion device?
 
Nic Packer said:
Thank you for the help. Part of the difficulty with learning framing is that different companies name their similar products various names, so it can be confusing to know what is being referenced.


Rick: Do you know if there's an easy way to insert the Fletcher MultiPoints without purchasing their $160 insertion device?
Click to expand...
Logan makes "hobbyist" level framing tools.
I use their flexible point driver almost as often as I use my much more industrial-level Fleximaster point driver.
For multi-points they have a manual inserter tool:

F400-1 Fitting Tool

www.logangraphic.com www.logangraphic.com

1632784738482.png

They can be found at a number of "big box" retailers like Michaels, Lee Valley Tools, etc.
And some well-stocked art supplies places sometimes carry the brand as well.
Keep in mind, it is considered a "hobbyist" tool, not as robustly built as the more expensive framing industry tools.
But for lower volume/light duty framing, they can be a good way to get started.
 
Nikodeumus said:
Logan makes "hobbyist" level framing tools.
I use their flexible point driver almost as often as I use my much more industrial-level Fleximaster point driver.
For multi-points they have a manual inserter tool:

F400-1 Fitting Tool

www.logangraphic.com www.logangraphic.com

View attachment 39873
Click to expand...

Well who'd have known, I had one sitting in a box I got from a retiring framer. Thanks!
Nikodeumus said:
They can be found at a number of "big box" retailers like Michaels, Lee Valley Tools, etc.
And some well-stocked art supplies places sometimes carry the brand as well.
Keep in mind, it is considered a "hobbyist" tool, not as robustly built as the more expensive framing industry tools.
But for lower volume/light duty framing, they can be a good way to get started.
Click to expand...
 
Prospero said:
** I use a multipoint gun in the said manner. In fact I use one for general frame assembly. I find it very user-friendly. 😎
Click to expand...

I like using the Flexipoint driver on most combo frames. It makes things very solid and secure but if something heavy were to fall against the art the points might provide a little needed "give".

Like this. :cry:
 
Holden West said:
I like using the Flexipoint driver on most combo frames. It makes things very solid and secure but if something heavy were to fall against the art the points might provide a little needed "give".

Like this. :cry:
Click to expand...
Interesting article.
What I can't figure out is why in the world would anybody in their right minds keep insanely valuable paintings in a room that is being freshly painted!?!?!?
Nobody considered possible splashed paint particles, off gassing, or what actually happened: physical damage?
Yikes.
 
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