ang13
Grumbler in Training
What dry mount tissue have you used successfully RC photos and digital photos?
Dry Mount Tissue Selection
- Thread starter ang13
- Start date
David Knox
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
With digital photos I use Bainbridge Speedmount. Actually I use speedmount for all my dry mounting needs. It has a low dwell time and doesn't give the orange peel effect if used correctly.
Maryann
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I have had mixed results with Speedmount. I love the concept, but I've had very inconsistent results. It seems that one box works great. The next box doesn't. Has it improved? It's been a year or so since I tried it.
Bill Henry-
Brussel Sprout Connoisseur
Seal (now Bienfang) “Colormount” dry mount tissue is designed for RC photos. With a glossy surface they suggest using their Colormount Coversheet to preserve the glossy surface, and, as long as it is clean and smooth without blemishes, it works very well for us. The standard coversheets can be used successfully with matte finishes of RC photos.
However, digital prints are a whole ‘nother bag of worms (that's for you, Ron). Many digital prints are ink jet, laser, thermal wax, or dye subs. On some media, the inks/dyes may bleed when heat is applied. We’ve been embarrassed a few times when we believed the prints to be RC photos when they weren’t.
If we’re not absolutely sure, we end up mounting them cold e.g. PMA. It takes longer, is messier, and more time consuming, but it sure beats having to explain how we ruined a print.
However, digital prints are a whole ‘nother bag of worms (that's for you, Ron). Many digital prints are ink jet, laser, thermal wax, or dye subs. On some media, the inks/dyes may bleed when heat is applied. We’ve been embarrassed a few times when we believed the prints to be RC photos when they weren’t.
If we’re not absolutely sure, we end up mounting them cold e.g. PMA. It takes longer, is messier, and more time consuming, but it sure beats having to explain how we ruined a print.
I am currently mounting 213 pix. Some are RC, some laser, some thermal, some inkjet, on and on. Ruined one digital reprint which I can get again myself, almost ruined one supposedly RC and am "fixing" it. I'm spraying the whole kaboodle instead of wondering. You simply cannot tell on some of these things.
Speedmount is our choice, but I find I don't drymount much at all anymore for my "real" work in the shop (as opposed to this restaurant stuff, that is.)
Seeing MUCH better now and glad to be reading here again.
Speedmount is our choice, but I find I don't drymount much at all anymore for my "real" work in the shop (as opposed to this restaurant stuff, that is.)
Seeing MUCH better now and glad to be reading here again.
You have it right about digitals.
If you have a statement that specifies the paper, ink set, and printing machinery used to produce that image, then you can go to www.wilhelm-research.com or the manufacturers' sites, and check permanence of the combination.
Otherwise, you have no way to know whether the image is heat sensitive -- unless you are willing to apply heat from your tackng iron in a small spot on the edge (not recommended, because it may be damaging). And even if the spot-heating does no harm, the heat of dry mounting could damage the inks or paper in ways that won't show up until years later.
Digitals present a dilemma because they may be sensitive to heat, moisture, and chemical reactions -- any or all permanent mounting methods may be destructive. There may be no way to tell by looking at the print.
The best mounting method for digitals is a non-invasive method. Edge mounts or hinges, for example.
But if I had to choose a permanent mounting method, for digital prints, it would be 3M ProSpray. No heat, no toxic chemicals, controlled pressure (use a brayer), and controlled moisture (spray the substrate).