Creative Batiks

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M

Mel

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 4, 1998
Posts
846
Loc
Pendleton, OR, USA
Never had a batik before but one is on its way. Not feeling creative, I would love some ideas for a Wow! presentation. Glass sandwiching, stretching, and hinging (provided you can get the hinge to hold) by themselves seem obvious. I's sure many of you have done something special with these. Would you share? (And, yes, I searched the archives--nothing; zip. Couldn't believe it.)
 
Stretching is the best way, hinging may be tricky with the leftover wax and all. Could poassibly be sewn to the back or laced? (I've never tried lacing them, maybe I will).
Be very aware that the slightest pressure can easily mark, rolling too tight can make 'em go hazy.
 
Hi Mel

Sorry can't help with aesthetics but for some technical here goes: recommend stretching over sealed stretcher bars and treat as if it were a fine canvas, or alternatively stretch over rag: 8ply ArtCare is probably one of the better mediums to use.
Don't use foamboard of any sort.

Try to keep the pH of the lacing thread, as much as possible, close to that of the batik material.

If it's on silk use silk or synthetic thread for lacing, but do not overdraw as it will tear through. If it's on cotton, use cotton or linen thread to lace. Even tension is paramount.

Keeping the glass off of the artwork is a must.

Have fun.

Orton
 
Orton:

Do you advise against foamcore for any use in the package? Not even backing? If, so, am curious about the reason.

WWOD

Marcia
 
It's a Batik. For the framer is more information required? Is it by a known artist with it's history complete? Does it have historical or monetary value? Is it done on old hotel bedsheets and was it purchased in Thailand for 5 dollars. Does the customer want conservation framing? Is it the framers place to refuse to do it at all if the customer doesn't want conservation framing? If the customer says it's just a fun thing from my holiday please drymount it and put a cheap metal frame around it without glass, does the framer comply? Most framers conservation habits are based on framing paper - batiks are different and may require different treatment. A few years ago a customer brought in a wonderful Batik from Asia. She wanted fine framing and we stretched, c/p mats and finished her piece. 6 months later she brought it back with a quarter inch of dark hairy mold all over the surface of the Batik. I suspect it was in the wax. Her art ruined our fine conservation framing. She was an easy customer to deal with and we fixed it up and she is still enjoying it.
 
Geeze, Scarfinger, since Orton had made a point to suggest I omit any foamcore in the package, I just wondered if there was something in the foamcore that reacted to batiks, or whether he meant not to use it for the stretching substrate. Maybe your story is the proof.

No, these are of little value and I didn't have to persuade her to do anything she didn't want to do.

Just curious about foamcore thing.....still am.
 
This Board smokes out some kinds of commentary
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Hairy mold?? ruins your framing? lol
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I lace all fabric items and have a technique that I find eliminates any possibility of tearing any fabric. Calico is machine sewn (cotton thread) onto the edge of the fabric. The calico is wide enough to go over the back and leave only a couple of inches between, which means that the lacing can be done with no joins as the lacing distance is very short.

Another advantage is that the work is extremely easy to straighten because there are no deformations of the lines in the fabric, they are only in the calico on the back. These deformations are worst where the lacing goes through the calico and get smaller closer to where they are attached to the fabric.

When lacing it is much better put the needle through the calico then back out again about one quarter of an inch away before going across to the other side. This halves the tension on the calico because it is shared between two points. I use only linen thread as it does not stretch and does not loosen the tension as the years go by.

I have used this method since 1985 when I began framing and it works very well and takes far less time than just lacing the fabric itself. A piece of needlework 16"x20" takes me about 12-15 minutes to lace and straighten after the calico is attached. (My wife machine sews it on, as I cannot drive a sewing machine.)

PS I don't know if "calico" is the same for other parts of the world, but it is an unbleached cotton fabric that is quite inexpensive here.
 
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