C&H M40について

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gakuho gaga

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こんにちは、日本からの投稿です。
私は小さな額縁店を営んでます。
C&H M40を使ってましたが、
均一に窓がカット出来なくなりました。

カットする本体の
ベースのパイプ部分は大丈夫かとおもいます。
稼働部分のbevel holder top plateの歪みで
ブレードがマットにくい込む現象がたくさんあります。

自力で解決策はありますでしょうか？

日本人で米国語は、難しいですが
やさしくアドバイスを願います。
 
gakuho gaga said:
こんにちは、日本からの投稿です。
私は小さな額縁店を営んでます。
C&H M40を使ってましたが、
均一に窓がカット出来なくなりました。

カットする本体の
ベースのパイプ部分は大丈夫かとおもいます。
稼働部分のbevel holder top plateの歪みで
ブレードがマットにくい込む現象がたくさんあります。

自力で解決策はありますでしょうか？

日本人で米国語は、難しいですが
やさしくアドバイスを願います。
Click to expand...

フォーラムの公式言語は英語ですが、どなたでも歓迎いたします。英語でのご投稿には、translate.google.com をご利用いただけます。他の方の便宜を図るため、あなたの投稿をウェブサイトに掲載しましたので、メンバーは英語でご覧いただけます。
いらっしゃいませ！

English is the official language of the forum, but everyone is welcome. You can use translate.google.com to assist with using English. For the convenience of others, I ran your post through the website, so members can view it in English.
Welcome!

Hello, this is a post from Japan.
I run a small picture frame shop.
Click to expand...
I was using a C&H M40,but I'm no longer able to cut windows evenly. I think the base pipe part of the cutting unitis fine. The bevel holder top plate, which is the moving part, is warped,and the blade often digs into the mat. Is there a solution I can find on my own? As a Japanese person, American English is difficult,but I'd appreciate some kind advice.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your advice.
I'll try using the translation function.
The first problem I encountered The Torsion Spring 8879 broke.
I would like to know the diagram for this part and its spring strength.
I think the problem is primarily distortion in the Bevel Holder Top Plate 8861.
I would like to know what methods are available to correct this distortion.
Some parts are missing.
Bevel Holder Bottom Plate Assembly with pin#6 M0349 What is the function of this part?
I would like to know the material and dimensions of this part.
Are these three items currently available? If they are not available, is there a workaround?
I would appreciate your advice.
Thank you in advance.
 
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gakuho gaga said:
Thank you for your advice.
I'll try using the translation function.
The first problem I encountered The Torsion Spring 8879 broke.
I would like to know the diagram for this part and its spring strength.
I think the problem is primarily distortion in the Bevel Holder Top Plate 8861.
I would like to know what methods are available to correct this distortion.
Some parts are missing.
Bevel Holder Bottom Plate Assembly with pin#6 M0349 What is the function of this part?
I would like to know the material and dimensions of this part.
Are these three items currently available? If they are not available, is there a workaround?
I would appreciate your advice.
Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
There is a section on this site with the manuals for many tools.
Here is the link: https://www.thegrumble.com/manuals Framing Equipment Manuals Library
I don't see M40 listed, but most C&H mat cutters are pretty similar.
This should be the closest on file:https://www.thegrumble.com/data/manuals/C&H_4800_Manual.pdf
As C&H is no longer in business, I am not sure how easily replacement parts can be obtained.

One possible reason for an uneven cut is the blade slipping. Very slightly loosening the right side bolt (listed as 17. Screen-Flt. Hd. Hex. Soc. #10-24x 1/2 Lg. .26-1002-6777-7) will allow the left side bolt to better hold the blade.

Another possibility is the slide block is loose. The instructions should have suggestions on how to correct that.

Another possibility is the Shoulder Screw 78-8048-4158-9 needs to be shimmed 78-8048-4240-5. The shims are very thin washers.

Hopefully someone will make a suggestion on where to find replacement parts.
 
I have been using a C&H 48 for about 40 years. Your machine looks identical.

I had a problem with the blade slipping in the holder and I fixed it by putting a small
piece of tape inside to increase the grip. It works fine now. It does make blade changing
slightly more difficult as I have to slacken the screws to remove and insert blades.
Not a big problem. Great machine. 🙂
 
Prospero said:
I have been using a C&H 48 for about 40 years. Your machine looks identical.

I had a problem with the blade slipping in the holder and I fixed it by putting a small
piece of tape inside to increase the grip. It works fine now. It does make blade changing
slightly more difficult as I have to slacken the screws to remove and insert blades.
Not a big problem. Great machine. 🙂
Click to expand...
I put a small strip of tape on the top edge of the (C+H 1200SE) blade when changing the blade. It really helps the blade stay put, and is basically no more difficult to change the blade except for the 15 seconds it takes to apply the tape.
:cool: Rick
 
Thank you everyone for your advice.

Here in Japan, we purchase machines and other items through a distributor.

I got my M40 at a discount from someone who had gone out of picture framing business.

That was 30 years ago.

I'm not very open to advice.



Rickさん

I tried your method.

I stuck clear packing tape on the side stamped #1200.

I managed to keep the blade in place.

I'll keep doing it this way for a while.

Thank you♪



Regarding the distortion of the bevel holder top plate

I think this part is the cause.

I'll ask a friend for a sample without changing the position of the original screws.

This is made of cast iron, so I'd like it to be metal.

Is it possible to use the hole in the center of the #1200 blade

so that it doesn't pierce the mat?

I'm asking for your advice.



It will take some time once the sample arrives.



I'll report back below.
 
Gakuho Gaga

Welcome to our humble group called The Grumble.
Regarding the hole in the razor blade. That is used only in the manufacture of the blades.
The on the blade is the notation of the thickness this blade. There are also thicker blades (stiffer) marked 1500 for heavier boards that will not bend as easy. Most framers use the 1200 blade with a single ground edge(designated with "SE") for its better precision in cutting.
 
I agree.
The sharpness of a single-edged blade can be adjusted.
With a double-edged blade, I think there's a chance it may move in either direction.

Blade hole
This is a uniform hole.

I wonder if this hole could be used to keep the center of the blade stationary and prevent it from jamming.
I want to protect old machines!
That's my hope and goal.

If only the machine was maintained and stable,
there might be fewer problems.

But this machine is ~40 years old.

Wouldn't it be better to change the core moving parts from cast iron to more iron-like parts?

I'm very happy to have been able to participate in this forum.

Sharing my challenges with you all has made me feel much more positive!

Thank you.
 
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