Another Milk Paint Frame

Woodworks by John

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Jul 4, 2000
Posts
380
Loc
North Las Vegas, NV
Business
Retired, work from home shop
I've used milk paint for a couple of frames lately and curious if anyone else has tried it on thier work. I get it from RMPfinishes, they used to go by the name of Real Milk Paint but have changed. What I like about it is the appearance, looks like it's been around for some time without looking "crafty". It comes in powder form so there's no chance of it drying out in the can, you can also vary the color by mixing it with thier soft white. I generally mix 2 ounces each of the powder and distilled water and that's enough to do a frame as large as 24" square. The foam brushes they sell are good quality and can be washed out and re-used. It's best to seal it and I've used wax, OSMO, and shellac. I prefer using the platinum shellac and airbrush it on. Jeez -- just realized this sounds like an advertisement for them but it isn't, just wondering if anyone else has tried it and what you thougts are about it!

The painting is titled "Once Upon a Time" and is by my wife, Diane Eugster. It's stretched on canvas and measures 12" x 16". I created the profile from Basswood and it features a tablesawn cove and a carved bead on the outer edge. The sight edge is oil gilded with imitation silver leaf. As some of you know, I blog my work to share it with others and also to remind myself what I did to get from raw wood to the frame. Partially the retired teacher in me but also the reality of my age and memory (or lack thereof :rolleyes: !! ).

I probably went into much more detail than necessary on my blog but if you're interested check it out an let me know what you think: https://woodworksbyjohn.com/2026/02/14/a-bit-of-whimsy-and-milk-paint-frame-280/ A bit of Whimsy and Milk Paint: Frame #280


Once Upon a Time by Diane Eugster (1).webp
Corner Detail WoodworksbyJohn.webp
 
I've used the water based General Finishes Milk Paint to match a commercial Dutch Black/Red moulding. I was matching a display cabinet that used an LJ frame for the face. The finish was a fairly flat clear poly from General Finishes as well, and it was wiped on with sponges provided with the finish.
I enjoyed the process, but it wouldn't be something I could incorporate into my business routine until I retire.

As for your creation, another home run! (c'mon, show us a flop occasionally so we know you're human).
Great lighting in the photo btw.
 
My only experiences with Milk Paint have been a failure of the paint over time on Maple and Poplar.
Something about Hardwoods not interacting well with Hardwoods.
Milk Paint on Pine worked out fine.
As Basswood is a Hardwood (though a softer one) I worry about the longevity of the bond.
I am wondering if I've raised this concern before.
I have seen the problem that was caused, but I have no experience with all the steps taken that led to the problem.

I will also say that the frame looks great, and so does the art.
 
I've used the water based General Finishes Milk Paint to match a commercial Dutch Black/Red moulding. I was matching a display cabinet that used an LJ frame for the face. The finish was a fairly flat clear poly from General Finishes as well, and it was wiped on with sponges provided with the finish.
I enjoyed the process, but it wouldn't be something I could incorporate into my business routine until I retire.

As for your creation, another home run! (c'mon, show us a flop occasionally so we know you're human).
Great lighting in the photo btw.
Thanks, I do have those flops and wish my house had a fireplace so they'd be useful. Jokingly said once that doctors bury their mistakes but woodworkers burn them!! That's what I like about creating the cove in the frame, it really gives the light places to reflect and hide.
 
My only experiences with Milk Paint have been a failure of the paint over time on Maple and Poplar.
Something about Hardwoods not interacting well with Hardwoods.
Milk Paint on Pine worked out fine.
As Basswood is a Hardwood (though a softer one) I worry about the longevity of the bond.
I am wondering if I've raised this concern before.
I have seen the problem that was caused, but I have no experience with all the steps taken that led to the problem.

I will also say that the frame looks great, and so does the art.
I believe you mentioned that and got me thinking, one thing I've learned is to not sand it super smooth. Usually go 150 grit and maybe 220. The other thing is to brush on a thin, initial coat; if you brush over it too often you'll remove the paint. The gallery has sold some of my wife's work and no callbacks -- let's keep it that way!
 
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