Question Speaking of black moulding, what are your corner repair methods?

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Tommy P

Tommy P

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
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Nov 16, 2003
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Mid North Indiana
Another recent thread asks about finding quality simple black mouldings. We all experience this problem of corner chip out. I'm sure it will almost always be a problem we have to deal with. I spend more time than I want trying to touch up corners from time to time. My methods don't thrill me. I've tried various ways. Maybe I'm to picky? AAARGH!

My question is, how do others do a nice job filling/fixing these chipped out corners so I doesn't look like a fix!! I'd like to feel perfectly proud about the finished frame as it goes out the door but..........
 
I use light weight spackling compound... the fluffly stuff. Fill, wipe with my finger and then let it dry... takes only a couple minutes. Then I use artist's oil paint to touch it up.
 
Use the Eric Hoversted method . . .

welders-mask-blowtorch.jpg


Make it black like the rest of the frame.
 
Wow! Eric looks a LOT better in an evening gown than I EVER thought he would! But I'm not sure how that fixes the problem, but if it does, anyone know where do I get a 2XL evening dress?
 
Not just for blacks, but any corner issues: Elmer's Wood Filler, let dry, smooth, touch up with acrylic paints.
7095292.jpg

:cool: Rick
 
I prefer the Elmers that comes in a tub to the squeeze tube. The stuff in the squeeze tube always dried out well before I could make full use of it. Timbermate is also a good water-based product, comes in various colors, dries fast, is easy to clean off, and is paintable. Not as easy to find, though.
 
Nice Result

I use spackeling (sp). Like Dave said...Fill, wipe, let dry, wipe again with water...Then use black or brown expo marker. Marker will stick to the spackeling (sp) but not the finish of the moulding. Works great on all frames. For gold or anything other...do same process, but touch up with gold metallic paint pen. This saves me SO MUCH TIME!!!
 
Rick Granick said:
Not just for blacks, but any corner issues: Elmer's Wood Filler, let dry, smooth, touch up with acrylic paints.
7095292.jpg

:cool: Rick
Click to expand...

Excellent - I've been using the same for a number of years. Don't need it often but when I do I believe this is the best.

I fill, let dry partially, clean from moulding with moist paper towel being careful around mitre, let dry completely, & touch up fill with felt color pins from art supply stores (art supply stores has a color felt pen for any color moulding & is less expensive than most of our suppliers). 99% of the time you will not know the frame has been filled - works great for black or any other color.
 
Just put it back into the saw/guillotine and pare about half a pubic hair at a time off the broken corner until it looks neat then pare the opposite side to match. You may then have to pare a millimetre or two off your matt but that will take less time than fiddling around with fillers and be a whole lot more workmanlike.
 
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Well, I've previously done just about everything mentioned. Filled with the Elmer's, spackling, etc. and the use of a black Chartpak marker or acrylic paint. Maybe I do not have the right touch as others but my corners still look like they have been touched up. Especially the blacks. I always figure if I can see the repairs then so can my customers.

Again, maybe I'm to critical.

Thanks for the help.

Tom
 
Rick Granick said:
Not just for blacks, but any corner issues: Elmer's Wood Filler, let dry, smooth, touch up with acrylic paints.
7095292.jpg

:cool: Rick
Click to expand...

The only problem with this stuff is the texture and if you don't use it in 2 months its all dried up.
 
I build a lot of black frames and touch up the miters as follows. Fill and shape the miter with white Timbermate water based filler thinned slightly with white glue and tinted with black acrylic paint. This mixture will dry enough in a few minutes to sand lightly with an emery board to "crisp up" the corner. Then take a damp paper towel and wipe the whole frame down with extra attention to the backside of the miter to clean off any sanded debris or glue residue that is on the frame. I then use a dark grey or black chart pack touch up marker on the miter. Next I use a tooth brush with black wax (or my Lieberon) black wax stick to smooth and blend the miter then wipe off excess wax which polishes the miter for a real clean look. One last thing, I then take a paper towel with a little Unseal and wipe the whole frame again. This removes oily hand and finger prints and seems to even out the factory finish of the moulding. I usually do a lot of frames at one time so I can do each of these steps to a number of frames and it goes very quickly. Mike
 
If I get chipped corners that need to be repaired, the moulding gets fired! End of story!
 
I hate basic black frames. I hate them so much that everything is priced the same as a basic black frame so I rarely have to make one. :thumbsup:
 
My can of this is so old it is only in English!!! GREAT stuff - have used it for decades!!!
canbck.gif
You can buy it from their website, which looks to be both very informative and funny.

http://waterputty.com/
 
I've got the same stuff Mar. My can must be at least 20 years old. A Lit'l Dab will Do Ya!!
 
Copic pigmented markers...Special Black and Dark Bark...use them daily. If I have to fill, I did something wrong, or the moulding gets trashed. Threw away a box of NC Achitecture series. If you bent the moulding a little the finish would litterally pop off the primer.
 
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