Question Your preferred method for double sided frames?

I make it so the glass/mat/art/mat/glass is sealed as a unit and then use spring clips so the 'sandwich'
can easily be taken out and flipped. That way the customer can choose what side is displayed and only one
frame is needed. Or they can take it off the wall, have a squint at the back and put it back. There are a few
constraints depending on the choice of moulding but it's much easier than trying to fix two frames back-to back.

Works in most situations. 😉
 
I make it so the glass/mat/art/mat/glass is sealed as a unit and then use spring clips so the 'sandwich'
can easily be taken out and flipped. That way the customer can choose what side is displayed and only one
frame is needed. Or they can take it off the wall, have a squint at the back and put it back. There are a few
constraints depending on the choice of moulding but it's much easier than trying to fix two frames back-to back.

Works in most situations. 😉
would you be willing to share a picture of the spring clips that you refer to? I'm not sure how these would attach. I am only familiar with the spring clips that are used in a metal frame. I had someone inquire about double sided framing today. Are there any frame suppliers that offer frame moulding with a finished back?
 
This is the sort of thing..... (not my photo)

Shorter ones are better.

catalog-WoodSpgSm8-spring_clip.jpg


I put in an insert made from some suitable thin, flat wood for the clips to press on so they don't bear on the glass.
 
I have built very few recto-verso framing projects using two frames back-to-back. But in those cases, I usually use rare-earth (neodymium) magnets to hold the frames together, with a few pegs for precise alignment of their perimeters.

In my limited experience, most customers who ask for recto-verso framing do not need to have the option of hanging from both sides. Rather, they just want to take the frame off the wall occasionally to see the back. In these cases, I use a "trim mat" as the disposable dustcover, which is actually a window mat covering the fitting points. The assembly usually includes a stack in this order, front to back:

1. frame
2. glazing-front
3. window mat-front
4. artwork
5. window mat-back
6. glazing-back
7. spacer mat; window mat with 1/2" margin to shield glazing from fitting points
8. fitting points
9. trim mat; a window mat used as dustcover, attached to back of frame using dots of glue.

If a picture is worth a thousand words...

Front (recto) view:
Photo-MOLA-Front.jpg


Back (verso) view:
Photo-MOLA-Finished Back.jpg


Back (verso) detail:
Fitting points are under the blue window mat.
Photo-MOLA Verso TrimMat.jpg
 
Nice job on that! Love the design. Are the red corner elements inlaid into the notches in the orange mat?
In the third picture, it appears that the trim mat is sized using a reverse bevel. Is that right?
:cool: Rick
 
I use the method Jim Miller suggests when the back is not meant to be viewed regularly.
If both sides will be viewed regularly, I either use a Stained Glass frame, or cut a groove into the back of 2 frames to be glued back to back.
I will then use masonite strips in the grooves to line them up for gluing.
 
Nice job on that! Love the design. Are the red corner elements inlaid into the notches in the orange mat?
In the third picture, it appears that the trim mat is sized using a reverse bevel. Is that right?
:cool: Rick
Thanks, Rick.

It's a triple mat, and the red squares are inlaid into the corners of the black top mat. Yes, the blue trim mat is cut to show the bevels in the window and around the perimeter. Sometimes I color the perimeter bevels to match the frame. Loves me those Fletcher Wireless hangers, too.
 
As we use only raw unfinished wooden moulding we take a rather easy approach and use a single frame, insert the art package with your double glazing and then finish the back of by putting in a spacer in the same wood/finish as the rest of the frame which fills up what is left of the rabbet so that it sits flush with the back of the frame. The spacer kan be glued, nailed of even screwed in as is preferred.
 
The chains were in part because the customer wanted that kind of look, but also functional. They were attached to the painted (and modified) hanger and ran down each sleeve finishing in a clasp attached to D rings at the bottom corners. This stopped the sleeves moving around too much and the zips potentially scratching the inside of the glass as it was AR99. There are also some stitches hidden to keep the jacket firmly in place on the hanger. The jacket was pretty heavy and has a hand-painted design on the back, which is why they wanted it to be double sided.
 
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