What is the best method to protect a print using no glazing - client wants a "canvas" type texture

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bsoucy

bsoucy

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I feel like I should know this but I don't. We just have never offered it and haven't had any requests. Would I use some kind of heat press laminating material? Can anyone recommend best practices and products? I'm imagining that there might be issues with air bubbles . Any recommendations for specific products that I could apply in my VacuSeal 4468 heat press? My main suppliers are Don Mar Frame & Moulding, Omega Moulding, and Larson Juhl. Unfortunately, the information on the products they all sell is lacking much detail in the descriptions. When I try to ask my reps these questions, they don't seem to really know and hesitate to give any kind of framing advice. Any direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Hi,

I'm assuming this is not an archival project. I might suggest looking into Finish Guard Laminating Film. I use this in the VacuSeal. It is a good option for framing without glazing but still has some surface protection and texture (depending on which laminate you use).

You should be able to get it through LJ, maybe Omega. There are directions that come along with it, but I find the best laminating instruction is in Chris Paschke's book here: https://ppfa.app.neoncrm.com/np/clients/ppfa/product.jsp?product=37&catalogId=4& The Mounting And Laminating Handbook (3rd Edition)

Here is another good reference: https://www.dkgroup.com/applications/framing-mounting/ Framing & Mounting - D & K Group

You shouldn't have issues with air bubbles if you use the right methods and materials. The foam overlay is key. Practice and sometimes it is good to have a helper with the laminate if it is a large print.

Best- clare
 
How much protection does your customer want? Assuming this is an easily replaceable item, you might be able to use z-gel
Not inexpensive if you would only use it for this project

Z-Gel (giclee clear texturizing gel) | Damico Frame & Art Printing

Texturizing Gel for that Original Look! Available in Gloss and Semi Gloss Available in 32oz and 1 Gallon Safe to use on giclee inkjet prints. This clear med ...
damicogallery.com damicogallery.com
 
clare said:
Hi,

I'm assuming this is not an archival project. I might suggest looking into Finish Guard Laminating Film. I use this in the VacuSeal. It is a good option for framing without glazing but still has some surface protection and texture (depending on which laminate you use).

You should be able to get it through LJ, maybe Omega. There are directions that come along with it, but I find the best laminating instruction is in Chris Paschke's book here: https://ppfa.app.neoncrm.com/np/clients/ppfa/product.jsp?product=37&catalogId=4& The Mounting And Laminating Handbook (3rd Edition)

Here is another good reference: https://www.dkgroup.com/applications/framing-mounting/ Framing & Mounting - D & K Group

You shouldn't have issues with air bubbles if you use the right methods and materials. The foam overlay is key. Practice and sometimes it is good to have a helper with the laminate if it is a large print.

Best- clare
Click to expand...
Thank you, Clare, I will check these links out. These are just open-edition prints and he said he wants them to match others that he's had done at Michael's. I called Michael's and asked them what their process was and was told that they will not do anything to add to or change a customer's art print, so no info there.
 
Ylva said:
How much protection does your customer want? Assuming this is an easily replaceable item, you might be able to use z-gel
Not inexpensive if you would only use it for this project

Z-Gel (giclee clear texturizing gel) | Damico Frame & Art Printing

Texturizing Gel for that Original Look! Available in Gloss and Semi Gloss Available in 32oz and 1 Gallon Safe to use on giclee inkjet prints. This clear med ...
damicogallery.com damicogallery.com
Click to expand...
Thank you, Ylva. I remember back in the early 2000's we used to mount Penny Lane country-style prints to MDF boards and Z-gel them. That was popular for awhile back then.
 
Do you know how the print was made? Back in the day, we mounted and laminated a lot of posters, but now, some newer inks can fade from the heat. Also, if it's not something you usually do, might be wise to find someone who does and send them there. When we bought this shop, I bought a roll of laminating film, and then only used it three times in several years. The third time, the release paper had bonded to the plastic, and it was almost useless. I reeled off a lot, to see if the inner layers were better, and at least with those, I could manage to peel it off. That roll cost more than it ever made for us.
 
Shayla said:
Do you know how the print was made? Back in the day, we mounted and laminated a lot of posters, but now, some newer inks can fade from the heat. Also, if it's not something you usually do, might be wise to find someone who does and send them there. When we bought this shop, I bought a roll of laminating film, and then only used it three times in several years. The third time, the release paper had bonded to the plastic, and it was almost useless. I reeled off a lot, to see if the inner layers were better, and at least with those, I could manage to peel it off. That roll cost more than it ever made for us.
Click to expand...
I'm honestly not sure how the prints are made. Customer had ordered on eBay and looked like a reproduction print of a blueprint of distillery equipment. Not sure how to tell if this method is safe or not. Maybe I will just defer him to somewhere else. Don't want to take a chance of ruining someone's art prints.
 
bsoucy said:
I'm honestly not sure how the prints are made. Customer had ordered on eBay and looked like a reproduction print of a blueprint of distillery equipment. Not sure how to tell if this method is safe or not. Maybe I will just defer him to somewhere else. Don't want to take a chance of ruining someone's art prints.
Click to expand...
The shop I used to work at did a fair amount of laminating (about 1 a month, compared to my one a decade).
Bubbles don't tend to be a problem, as the film is likely to have holes already in it.
The lamination needs a higher heat setting than drymounting.
Some prints reacted badly to the extra heat.
There was one publisher that we always had a bad day with. I think it was Wild Apple Graphics.
If do take the project on, make sure that replacement prints are available, and that the customer is willing to take the risk, and responsibility for replacing them.
 
We’ve done hundreds at least, laminating onto HDF, or Fibrex, using Satinex, matte, or Canvastex films. I use a Hot Press. Not one problem with heat. I’m now sending them out to a local company, and I think they’re using a cold mount process.
Drytac has YouTube videos on their products and methods.

Now: want to know a crazy coincidence? When Drytac started up, here in Ottawa, they were located at an industrial centre, The City Centre. The supplier I use is in the same complex. And that supplier is the one that’s looking for those cheap frames in that thread I posted elsewhere.
This is the twilight zone.
 
Years ago I did a lot of run-of-the mill prints laminated to hardboard. I did them in one go - drymount and laminate
and cooked them for 20 mins. I still have a few and they look as good as when they came out of the press.
I used a heavy-duty canvas textured film. Don't know what is available nowadays.
 
Prospero said:
Years ago I did a lot of run-of-the mill prints laminated to hardboard. I did them in one go - drymount and laminate
and cooked them for 20 mins. I still have a few and they look as good as when they came out of the press.
I used a heavy-duty canvas textured film. Don't know what is available nowadays.
Click to expand...
Holy cow! I used four minutes or less.
 
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