What do you think of a Logan Matte Cutter?

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A. Todd Bennion

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My wife and I are starting a business and we need to purchase a matte cutter. We have a strict budget and we found that Logan matte cutters are alot cheaper. Does cheap mean we are going to get a low quality matte cutter?
 
Todd, my experience is that you get what you pay for. Find a way to get a better mat cutter, as your framing will only be as good as your mats. This job is very visual, and if you have "Crappy" mats, your customers will assume that all of your work is crappy. They might not care, or know about what is behind the art, but they always want the finished package to look the best.
It's up to you to make sure the rest is done properly.

Good luck, and keep reading the Grumble. You will find a lot of good information here.



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Sue May :)
"Everyone is born right-handed, only the greatest can over come it!"
 
If you are going to be in business full-time, buy the absolute best mat cutter you can afford. I have used those that are marketed to hobbyists, and I would open a vein if I had to operate one of those all day. I would see red at the dollars flying out the door in the way of ruined mat boards. Buy cheaper carpeting!
-FG
P.S. Haunt the archives here--lots o'good stuff!
 
I have found that you can find very good equipment used,just stick with the top name product. Fletcher and C/H are good made cutters and they don't wear out to quickly just make sure the cutting head is tight and runs smooth on the bar. Good luck
 
I bought a Matt cutter from Larson-Juhl years ago. I use a Fletcher at work. My Larson cutter works better than the newer one at work. I'm pretty sure mine is made by Carithers. Happy shopping!
smile.gif
 
Of the mat cutters on the market today, I like the Carrithers Signature model the best, although a lot of people swear by the Fletcher. I prefer the Carrithers because the sliding block gives you just a bit of drag for better control. As for the Logan, I find that to be more of a hobbyist machine. You'd be better off spending the extra dollars for a better machine, as your mats are what you make the most profit from, and they had better be good or someone else will be getting your business.

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Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
21 years framing and still loving it
 
If your going to choose between Logan & C&H, get the Logan. If the C&H is an old one with double hold downs on the mat guide and the head isn't worn ( wobbly) get the C&H. The new C&H cutters are second only to a utility Knife and a strait edge. They look hot but they are not professional mat cutters.
Go with the Fletcher or Carithers, you will be better off in the long run.
John
 
Years ago, after taking classes where we worked with a Fletcher we quickly ordered a professional machine and sold the Logan to a hobbyist. What a difference! We wouldn't trade in our Fletcher except for the big boy(6100). Having the right equipment to begin with will make all the difference in the world.
Ruth

[This message has been edited by Ruth Yheulon (edited January 09, 2001).]
 
I bought a Logan Concept One three years ago and love, love, love it. The problem is that Logan has stopped producing that higher end model and I know nothing about their lower end products. One thing to keep in mind, except for one person at Logan the other employees are absolutely the most obnoxious bunch of folks I have ever had to deal with. If I'd had the money I'd have bought the company just to show them how it's done!!!
 
Todd,

YES, cheap means you're going to get a low quality mat cutter. My STRONG suggestion to you guys would be to try and cut costs in other areas. Good quality mat cutters (as well as frame cutting & joining tools) are worth their weight in gold. Using a mat cutter that is constantly out of square and needing "adjusting" WILL GIVE YOU GRAY HAIR FASTER THAN ANYTHING. You'll save money in the long run by not wasting your time (and money) RE-cutting mats that your P.O.S. mat cutter caused you to mess up. Plus a higher quality machine will last longer. Thus making life easier to live.

I haven't used a Logan cutter before but did look them over pretty good at the last trade show, all I can say is I wouldn't own one. a few years ago I used 2 different (a 40"&60") C&H Advantage cutters (for about 3 years). I HATED both of them, more like a DisAdvantage. It was impossible to ever get a straight cut (not to mention a decent v-groove).

THEN IT HAPPENED...about 6 years ago when I bought my first Fletcher 2100 48" cutter. my life changed.. *** A+++++++++++++ rating *** Never out of square, never a "hooked" mat, the head always glides easily on it's 4 little ball bearing wheels AND it's all metal construction. Excellent design. Everyone needs a 60" cutter sooner or later so you might just as well plan on that. BUT keep in mind, the 48" cutter allows you to cut many mats that would otherwise be considered oversized if you just had a 40" cutter. I only use my 60" cutter about once a month because of that. Fletcher also makes spring loaded "lifters" that connect to the underside of your "arm/handle" that raises (and holds) the bar a couple of inches off the cutting surface (until you push it down) which will free up a hand when lining mats up...it's a MUST HAVE accessory ($25-30 definately worth it)

Good luck in your new business, I hope this helps !
 
Try looking for a used fletcher. I love used equipment. Those fletchers are made like tanks and fletcher stands behind their product.

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Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the =^..^= cat.
 
Skoogdaddy-

Funny you should mention blades. Having started business with an old C&HDisadvantage, and having stocked up on C&H 1200SE's that I use with my Fletcher 2100, I am now about ready to reorder.

Can you explain why the C&H blades are best? I have only used the Fletcher double sided and didn't like the cut but attributed that to the double-sidedness.

Also, can you or others go over the pros and cons of using 1500 "rag" blades, and 1700 "8-ply" blades?

Thanks

[This message has been edited by Mel (edited January 17, 2001).]
 
I'm a C&H owner who's not so disenchanted, but perhaps because mine's ten years old, and I've not used any other since a Keencut. Anyway, I'm interested in the blade question also. We use nothing but the 1200SE, but are always looking for better stuff.
 
Need to put my 2 cents in for the Gunn Art C55. A real one-trick pony, but does that flawlessly. One of the few I've seen built to last a lifetime.
 
I learned how to cut mats on a Logan 700. With a little tweeking I got pretty decent results. After about 6-7 months I bought a 48" Fletcher 2000 and have been very happy with it for the last 12 years. Can't seem to wear it out. When I do (if ever) I'll buy another Fletcher. I also worked for another framer who used an older C&H Advantage. Not impressed. We had to replace the head twice in one year. A Larson-Juhl cutter (Carithers) I used in another shop seemed OK but I still prefer the Fletcher. Has a more solid feel.
After trying several blades I ended up using the C&H 1200SE. Best blade on the market as far as I'm concerned. For the straight cut side of the cutter I use any old 1500 double bevel blade.

[This message has been edited by Frank (edited January 16, 2001).]
 
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Skoogdaddy CPF:
C&H does make the BEST blade though... 1200SE<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I agree that the 1200SE is a great blade, however, I`ve been using the new 900SE blade and it is one slick blade. Haven`t cut corners like these. Right on target.
 
Mel,

The reason (in my opinion) the 1200SE is the best is because of the width of the single edge on the blade (SE) and the thin-ness of the blade itself. The 1500 blades (and other thicker double edge blades) are thicker with shorter bevels on both sides causing more drag when cutting through the board. As for the pros and cons of other blades with different ply boards ... I've found no reason to change blades when cutting them to this point.

*Remember (young framers) that the most important element to cutting nice clean mats is having a sharp blade at all times, don't be afraid to replace your blades often when cutting mats. I change blades on every mat over 16x20. If it's smaller than that I'll use the blade for two mats. I also usually use one blade to cut a single v-groove (for the fall-out, and for trimming the fall-out-8 cuts)

BUD, did you say a 900SE ??? I'm thinking the 900 part means it's a little thinner than the 1200(SE)?? I bet it is pretty slick...I can't imagine a blade cutting smoother than the 1200SE but if it's thiner I imagine it is. I'll have to try it out, thanks for the tip!
 
In addition to Skoogdaddy's on-the-money tips, I have to add that proper blade depth is crucial to 8-ply mat cutting. I use a .012 (1200) blade for these, and before I cut, I make sure that the blade only penetrates the slip sheet by have the blade bevel. If you adjust your depth this way, you'll eliminate blade flex and get perfect hook-free corners

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Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
21 years framing and still loving it
 
Skoodaddy & Bogframe are right on with the tips for success....

--Change the blade frequently and monitor the blade depth (Not just 8ply, Seth).

I also prefer a thiner blade like a .012 thickness over ANY .015 blade. As Bjorn has also stated, it simply cuts through any material with less resistance! I would love to go one step further and endorse the .0900 thickness blades but unfortunately the C&H type is an SE design, and I'm not a fan of any SE (=Single Edged) blade design.

I have discovered and had confirmed by many framers in the field that SE blades are more prone to creating a withdrawal "swipe" on the bevel than double honed blades. I'm describing the small angled line at the corner where the cut ends (not begins). Most all blades can do this, but SE blades tend to be more obvious.

This mat cutter subject has turned into a blade disscussion - Any way of Adding to the title, framer?

Regards,

John

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The Frame Workshop of Appleton, Inc.
www.theframeworkshop.com
Appleton, Wisconsin
jerserwi@aol.com
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Please no trashings for my lazy mind, John, but do you know of any double-edged really thin blade which will work on the C&H? I use the 1200SE but do know of what you speak concerning the swipe.
 
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