So, in this modern, crazy COVID world of ours, I've been losing my mind trying to economically source v nails. I've noticed most folks are going with a generic producer. These nails are vastly less expensive and come in a greater quantity the the AMP brand. My concern is that these are a softer metal and, especially in hardwood frames, may bend and blow a corner out. What are the groups thoughts on this?
Problem V Nail Drama
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Not now, not ever, never do I buy the generic carp. We aren't talking about big bucks here. Buy the real stuff. Just my opinion. I've never used the generic carp.
I had gotten a non AMP box about a decade ago by accident.
That box caused constant jamming in the V-nailer.
I did eventually have to replace the Nail Head on my V-nailer, but it had been pretty worn by previous use as well.
It's just not worth it.
That box caused constant jamming in the V-nailer.
I did eventually have to replace the Nail Head on my V-nailer, but it had been pretty worn by previous use as well.
It's just not worth it.
That has not been my perception. Because so many of us have had trouble with off-brand v-nails not firing properly, jamming, or otherwise causing problems, I believe most framers buy the brand-name v-nails made to go with their machines.
Personally, I have not considered saving a few dollars per thousand v-nails to be worth the potential hassles. Of course, if we are faced with availability issues, we do what we must.
That has not been my perception either, as Jim said.
I have a Casesse underpinner and only buy the name brand v-nails. I have never even considered buying an off brand. Why risk my quite expensive underpinner to save a few bucks.
You would be better off using 1 v-nail less per moulding if cost is a concern, to make up for that price difference.
Also, as you already stated, why use softer v-nails that might cause blow out corners or not fire well enough to keep the corners tight?
I have a Casesse underpinner and only buy the name brand v-nails. I have never even considered buying an off brand. Why risk my quite expensive underpinner to save a few bucks.
You would be better off using 1 v-nail less per moulding if cost is a concern, to make up for that price difference.
Also, as you already stated, why use softer v-nails that might cause blow out corners or not fire well enough to keep the corners tight?
I'm going to start a new thread on generics to see who is using what for all kinds of generics. So far one one is using generic vnails.
With parts like this, we keep buying the good stuff and raise prices as needed.
Mary Beth van der Horst
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I use a manual v-nailer rather than pneumatic, so I don't have to worry about jamming. Recently started using a generic v-nail from 888, and can't complain. Previously everything was Alphamachine/AMP v-nails. But regardless, I pull them apart 1 by 1 and load 1 at a time. Again, if I actually used the air-powered v-nailer I have in the back, I'm sure I'd be much more picky.
What v-nailer are you using, and is it an older one or relatively new?
My old VN2+1 used to jam with the name brand v-nails when it got older, and I switched to generic ones. First from Vnail.com, then from Decor. Never had jamming with them.
When I replaced the old machine with a U300, I started using the brand name nails again (others would void the warranty), and they work great. The new machine is great too.
Rick
My old VN2+1 used to jam with the name brand v-nails when it got older, and I switched to generic ones. First from Vnail.com, then from Decor. Never had jamming with them.
When I replaced the old machine with a U300, I started using the brand name nails again (others would void the warranty), and they work great. The new machine is great too.
Rick
Apparently several of us have had issues with generic v-nails, but as Rick mentioned, using generic v-nails may not cause any problems for you. So, if you are having troubles with the name-brand v-nails (as Rick did), or if you have availability problems (which is what drove me to temporarily try generics ), and if you can find a source for generic v-nails that work well in your machine, then go for it. Will you let us know what you find?
However, if you just want to save money and have operating issues with the generics, the first suggestion would be to go back to the name-brand v-nails.
In any case, I wouldn't spend much time looking for an exceptionally low price on generic v-nails. Considering the cost difference on a per-v-nail basis, saving a few dollars per thousand may not be worth the potential hassle.
However, if you just want to save money and have operating issues with the generics, the first suggestion would be to go back to the name-brand v-nails.
In any case, I wouldn't spend much time looking for an exceptionally low price on generic v-nails. Considering the cost difference on a per-v-nail basis, saving a few dollars per thousand may not be worth the potential hassle.
It's not a cost thing at all, we'd rather buy the good stuff. Most vendors who deliver to us are offering only the generic options so we've resorted to buying our AMP v nails from a seller on Amazon as they are usually the only single place I can go to to find everything I need. We purchased a U-400 at the Vegas show a few years back and want to keep it as long as we can.
Thanks for the input everyone!
Thanks for the input everyone!
With your newer U400 I would stay with the genuine AMP vnails.
My U300 is much "smoother" and quieter when inserting the nails than the old VN2+1 was, and it makes great joins.
My U300 is much "smoother" and quieter when inserting the nails than the old VN2+1 was, and it makes great joins.
Joe B
PFG, Picture Framing God
Never generic - I will gladly pay the extra few dollars to get the original equipment products.
Mary,
What are you using for V-Nailing?
That method sounds so time consuming.
I assume you have a reason.
Just curious.
Mary Beth van der Horst
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I use my Pistorius VN-J to join. It clamps up much like a stanley vice for a perfect corner, and I can see exactly where the v-nail is going to drive in.
I also have a AMP Miter-Mite I inherited from the last shop owner, but he didn't take care of it, nor his compressor. It's a hot mess I don't have time to figure out. I let him try to show my how to use it, just to watch him destroy a dozen frames--crushing the face of the frame, blowing vnails out the sides, air hissing out of every hose, never a tight join. It's supposed to be a good joiner, but I really don't know where to start... I certainly shouldn't listen to my predecessor, as he thinks 1/8" corner gaps are perfect.
Regardless, all I'm joining are generally small-medium softwoods. Many more difficult mouldings I'll just ask LJ to join for me, so that makes up some time...
I've never seen such a thing.
I've seen, other non pneumatic vnailers, but never one that needed the vnails loaded one at a time.
I've had a few instances where I wanted to v-nail late at night, but didn't want the noise of the compressor disturbing neighbors.
I may have to look into one of these.
Thanks.
I think I would rather be nibbled to death by ducks than to have to load vnails one at a time.
Rick
Rick
Mary Beth van der Horst
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
So... say you want to put a 1/2" and a 1/4" vnail in 2 sides of an angled moulding... Do you have to change the whole cartridge? I just grab another vnail!I think I would rather be nibbled to death by ducks than to have to load vnails one at a time.
framah
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
..and with a powered v-nailer, you just hit the pedal a second time and stack two 1/4" nails.
Trust us, once you finally get that monster working right, you'll wonder why you awaited so long to switch over.
Trust us, once you finally get that monster working right, you'll wonder why you awaited so long to switch over.
'changing the whole cartridge' is easy and quick.
To be fair, I end up using mostly just one size v-nail and stack them where needed. I couldn't imagine doing 1 v-nail at the time either. LOL
To be fair, I end up using mostly just one size v-nail and stack them where needed. I couldn't imagine doing 1 v-nail at the time either. LOL
Mary Beth van der Horst
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Trust us, once you finally get that monster working right, you'll wonder why you awaited so long to switch over.
I'll take your word for it. I'm so scared of that thing, I think I need an adult, lmao! I've only been putting it off for a year and a half.
Romanf
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
I have rebuilt several underpinners….if yours is as bad as you say, it might not even make sense to rebuild it, parts are expensive and in many instances hard to come by. You need to get an estimate, if possible, then decide to buy either a manual or pneumatic unit. There are many very good manual units out there at very reasonable prices. On the other hand if you are fine and happy using your pistorius then keep on doing so!
I replaced my aged AMP VN2+1 with a new U300, and it is great. Time is money, and a new machine will more than pay for itself in efficiency... and lowered stress.