support for large frame???

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srw19artist56

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I'm getting ready to frame a drawing. The wood frame will be 86'' long x 42'' high. I expect to use some kind of frame support esp. for the long side on the back. United carries a frame strap that looks like it would work well. What do others use to brace the back of extra large frames?? This is my biggest so far! Wall buddies will be used to hang it.

Thanks, Sharon
 
You need a "strainer" with corner and cross braces all of which are screw fit into the back of the frame. Consider it a sub frame, that supports the exsisting frame and from which it is hung. You can use anything from 1/2 x 1 1/2" to 3/4 x 2 1/2" screen stock or Larson carries strainer stock which is really canvas strecher. Of course your frame must be deep enough to accomodate the strainer. I do these day and night, feel free to contact me for any help. Her's an example of what I'm talking about it's on the back of a 58 x 34 inch frame with glass, it will make the sturdiest frame you've ever seen.

I see your in Michigan, feel free to come by my shop.
 

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How wide is the moulding?

You can use corner brackets (flattened 'L' shape bought from any hardware store) screwed into the back of the frame

or

You can run a metal straps across the corners (also screwed into the back of the frame). I would do either of those depending on how wide the frame is and how heavy it is in the end.
 
RParrish

I noticed the orientation of your corner samples in the background of the picture you just posted. It's quite unique, would you mind posting a picture of your sample area.


p.s. Sorry about Hijacking the thread.
 
RParrish said:
Consider it a sub frame, that supports the exsisting frame and from which it is hung.
Click to expand...

RParrish, Just to clarify your statement....are you saying that you place your hanging hardware on the strainer? I couldn't tell from your photo.

Thanks!
 
Uncle Eli said:
RParrish

I noticed the orientation of your corner samples in the background of the picture you just posted. It's quite unique, would you mind posting a picture of your sample area.


p.s. Sorry about Hijacking the thread.
Click to expand...

I display them diagonally, so the samples look like frames, I posted pics on an older thread, response #17, man I can't believe how bad I wrote that post, please excuse me.
http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?t=29629&highlight=corner+displays&page=2
 
TGFU said:
RParrish, Just to clarify your statement....are you saying that you place your hanging hardware on the strainer? I couldn't tell from your photo.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, never the frame, it's hard to tell since the back is sealed with frame sealing tape, the frame is probably the weakest part, it all depends on the thickness of the moulding. I am typically using a gallery style molding similar to Picture Woods, where the moulding might be 1/2 face x 1 3/4" side, not a lot of moulding, the strainer stabilizes the frame and helps carry the wieght. On large pieces I typically hang with D ring hangers or security hangers since they are usually valuable prints in public settings. The one in the pic is a personal piece, with wire.

I would recommend a strainer for any frame over 36 x 48, and for slim frames add a strainer on for any thing over 18 x 24". Talk about added profit and security, stainer stock you can charge at least 6.95 per foot plus corner bracers and up the fitting charges. I like to use finger joined pine screen stock from my local lumber yard. You can add z bars or what ever, but the good old D ring and floreat hangers are my preferance.
 
FramingFool said:
I would suggest Z-Bars, acrosss the top and bottom rails, instead of WallBuddies.
Click to expand...

Yes. You might consider what the installer wants you to use. Our industrial installer would have us build a jumbo strainer inside the frame. Then they would hang it off industrial cleats top and bottom. We just did a piece with Clark 1700-01, strainer built up to the back. The 40 x 60 piece is NG glass over mat and backing. The designer's client uses these for white boards. Our concern is stability so we called AttHowe Fine Art Services.
 
On a frame that large I definitely concur with the strainer frame crowd. Depending on the moulding you would want at least 1 crossbar, but probably two and as many as three. You may also want a longitudinal one. Width is probably more important than thickness, but you'll want enough thickness to make a good lap joint. We're providing moulding for a job right now that has a total of 230 frames out of a 1 x 2-1/8 cap moulding that are all 59 x 88 and they have 7/8 x 4 Soft Maple strainers. Of course, they will have laminated glazing so there is going to be some pretty significant weight there...
 
Kirstie said:
All I can say is that it was a memorable picture. I still had it in my mind when you mentioned it. Great looking display. Is it practical?


Carry on...
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Absolutely, if your using foam pile to display your samples and some extra velcro is needed here and there. Mostly customers LOVE IT, like I said it looks like a work of art. I wish I had a day off to just do the walls.

My shop is closed Mondays that's the day I do security installations or regular picture hanging for clients. I do alot of installations so I stand behind my advice on hanging large art and have rarely used french cleats or the equivilent z bar, not that there any thing wrong with them IMO.
 
Kirstie said:
All I can say is that it was a memorable picture. I still had it in my mind when you mentioned it. Great looking display. Is it practical?


Carry on...
Click to expand...


Kristie I had my wall that way. I loved it! I felt it held more samples than the vertical method. Was also easier to keep organized and it looked so good to me that the samples went up after being used! Less clutter on the design table! Also if the rows went out of true it wasn't as apparent. Just put an extra piece of velcro on the upper leg so that the sample stays on the wall better.
 
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