Small handheld router

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Steven6095

Steven6095

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Feb 14, 2004
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Nicholasville, KY
I need to enlarge the opening in a frame just a little bit - chop came in a bit too small. I have done this on occasion befor with a dremel tool, but today thought about a small handheld router. It could be lowered and raised to match the depth of the rabbit and should yield quicker and cleaner results than a dremel tool.

Anyone have any experience or comments with using a small hand holdable router?
 
No. I've tried using a dremel and it just doesn't work well.

My husband is a whiz at this by hand. He uses a razor knife, straight edge, (sometimes a clamp to hold the straight edge), chisel and tap hammer. He has really strong hands though, from years of carpentry. It's hard to trim less than 1/4" by hand (again, he can do it, but I won't even try...). He can make it split so clean it looks like it came that way...

Unless you're doing something that you can't recut the mats and glass, still avoid it. Taking it off four sides is a pain and taking it off just one side will make your mat openings off center.

If you do it often enough, do what Jeff said and buy a REAL tool. Best price I've seen:
http://www.toolking.com/dewalt-d266...-duty-laminate-trim-router?CAWELAID=430268115
 
I've used a RIGID R2400 laminate trimmer because of the way it fits in my hand, it's easy to use and cuts like butter.
I've used it on some old frames for some customers.
Try practicing on crappy wood frames to get the feel of it, and watch out for the nails. Go very slow at a slow speed for soft wood and higher speeds for hard woods. It's a piece of cake once you get the hang of it.
Make sure you clamp down the frame use rubber carpet backing for holding the frame down from damage.
Good luck
Francisco
 
You can also use a rabbit plane. I prefer it to a trimmer. Here are some examples. There are a number of varieties. They cost a little more but you have more fine control than a laminate trimmer.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000550/STANLEY-Rabbet-Planes.aspx

Also if you are doing this after the frame is built you will need a mortise chisel

http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pr...=8388&ss=10de929e-74de-4c9d-b62b-c54e206f6ac0

or an offset chisel like these

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/crowncornercleaningchiselspair.aspx

for cleaning the corners.

Of course, its easier to do this before the frame is joined but most of the time you won't know that it needs to be enlarged.
 
Lowes had it onsale today! So even better. I know the plane and chisel method is possible, but I prefer power tools.. :)
 
An aside, I use a router, but I think what Jeff says about the laminate trimmers is the best way, as they are small and light compared to a router. Part of the reason I use the router ... is I already have the router ... don't need to buy another tool. ( Gee, I must be growing up; I used to buy tools like it was "dope".)
 
I agree with Matt, the Bosch is a great little trimmer. It has won many best of class awards in the wood mags. Here's an example. Here's another.

I probably use my Colt more than any of my other routers.
 
The BOSCH was in my hand as well but for $119 vs $69, I had to go with the DeWalt.

*****
Also, any tricks for making a portable fence or anything? I am planning on taking a piece of scrap / junk moulding, laying it flat and putting two little screws into the back of the frame I need to enlarge. Also had the idea of a bar clamp or something.
 
A scrap tacked in place works great. On soft woods you can freehand it as well with just a little practice. While fitting canvas that is out of square I just open the tight corners a bit rather than running the length of the moulding and that is just freehanded.
 
I got some of the Dremel router bits once and also the little router table. But I found it was just not powerful enough for the job. Anything harder than Balsa wood and it struggles. Great for nibbling small areas with the milling bit though. (Lumpy canvas corners...?) If you try to do the whole frame length freehand you tend to end up with a very wavy edge. And you have to grab it very firmly or you end up taking a chunk off the sight-edge.
The main thing with routers is to have the work clamped firmly. I often knock up a temp jig with a few bits of handy timber just to form a guide for the router and to hold the work in place. My prefered way of machining rabbets is to use a table saw. But you have to do this before the frame is joined.
 
I fixed the frame today and I am very pleased with my little router.
Heck ordering another frame would have been more expensive than the tool, so as far as I am concerned the router paid for itself with one frame.

I had a float frame rail laying around that made a PERFECT guide screwed down to the frame in question.

It was very easy to do and the results were much better than expected. It looks fine. Nice and straight.

Only drawback was that I underestimated the saw dust, but oh well. That will vacuum up. Thank you to everyone for the tips.
 
I've done this as well, I use a Porter Cable laminate trimmer and a fence out to you'll need to use a fence on the outside of the frame and take light cuts. If you've never used a router before it's important that you feed it against the rotation of the bit. You'll also need to square the corners. My preference is to use a rabbet/chisel plane like the #90 Stanley. It's still manufactured and you can remove the top section of it and work right into the corners. Quiet, safe, and relaxing!
 
DVieau2 said:
Has anyone ever used an oscillating type cutting tool for widening the rabbet of a frame?

I've been looking for an excuse to buy a Fein Multi-Master Tool.
Doug
Click to expand...

I have the generic (ie Chinese) equivalent of a Fein. It is great for some things. For example, I just trimmed off 1/2" of existing bottom moulding on a wall to install a wider moulding around a door. I did it without removing the moulding from the wall. Not many tools can do that without messing up the wall or the moulding.

It could also be used for widening a frame rabbit. BUT, you will need to have very good control of the tool. It wouldn't take much to overcut. If you are using a laminate trimmer to widen a frame that is already cut and joined then you will still need to square the corners. The Fein could do that but a sharp chisel is a better bet.
 
I have a standard type router & table & also the router attachments for my dremel which work great for certain jobs but for a rabbet quick fix (& many other carving duties) I love my Ryobi electric carver.
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If you ever see one for sale pick it up as they stopped making them years ago for some reason. Other reciprocating power carvers I've seen will probably set you back $150 or more but these were more like $50 new & cuts away wood like butter.
 
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