Help Plexiglass has a line on it from the protective film

[GreyDrakkon]

Just got a piece of brand new UV protective plex in and when removing the film we noticed there was a crease in the protective film, which now seems to be marked on the glass. We tried using plexiglass cleaner to see if that would help but it didn't see to touch it. Anyone have a magic solution to fix it other than getting it recut?

 

[Shayla]

I once got in some Museum acrylic that had hazy blue 'rivers' caused by tubular air pockets, where the plastic coating hadn't sealed flat. Nothing could get it off, and not our usual cleaner, not Ultra Lite. Finally, in desperation, I tried face oil. (An old fly-tying trick). That took it off. So, I'm guessing some sort of oil, used sparingly, might. After we used that, the other cleaners were able to get it the rest of the way.

 

[CHolt]

I once got in some Museum acrylic that had hazy blue 'rivers' caused by tubular air pockets, where the plastic coating hadn't sealed flat. Nothing could get it off, and not our usual cleaner, not Ultra Lite. Finally, in desperation, I tried face oil. (An old fly-tying trick). That took it off. So, I'm guessing some sort of oil, used sparingly, might. After we used that, the other cleaners were able to get it the rest of the way.

Face oil?

 

[Shayla]

Face oil?

I almost sent a private note, but was brave and wrote here.

When tying fishing flies, I was taught that the oil on some parts of the face was useful, (I think it helps the feathers stay in place?). Figured it was worth a try. If they have a wee dab of canola oil and some Q-tips around, that might work, too. But I'd try it on a scrap first. And it was still a pain. Frustrating, because for that much money, the acrylic should be flawless.

In our case, it was the last resort and it worked; who knows if it would work for this. Hopefully, something else will first.

Okay, back to framing...

 

[CHolt]

I almost sent a private note, but was brave and wrote here.

When tying fishing flies, I was taught that the oil on some parts of the face was useful, (I think it helps the feathers stay in place?). Figured it was worth a try. If they have a wee dab of canola oil and some Q-tips around, that might work, too. But I'd try it on a scrap first. And it was still a pain. Frustrating, because for that much money, the acrylic should be flawless.

In our case, it was the last resort and it worked; who knows if it would work for this. Hopefully, something else will first.

Okay, back to framing...

Ok, AKA nose grease, that's what I thought, but wanted to make sure. I usually get it from the back of my neck.

 

[Ylva]

Ha, the things you never knew. I have a similar problem with some plexiglass and will give this 'face oil' a try before reordering.

 

[Shayla]

Ok, AKA nose grease, that's what I thought, but wanted to make sure. I usually get it from the back of my neck.

Does this count as a different terroir?

 

[Prospero]

I have heard of Elbow Grease Shayla, but never Face Oil.

Actually, gilders might get your drift.

 

[Shayla]

I have heard of Elbow Grease Shayla, but never Face Oil.

Actually, gilders might get your drift.

I was being tactful. lol.... If you search 'nose' or 'grease' here, you'll find a few other conversations.

 

[JB Garrett]

When I took my first photography class, we were shown that "nose grease" on a scratched negative could help during the printing process. I have since learned that the special "face oil"/"nose grease" helps get rid of fill residue on mat black frames. (I won't get in to what I know about cleaning paintings!)

 

[GreyDrakkon]

Huh, would not have thought of oil to remove streaks, but I can see how it might affect the surface by polishing it.

Poking around on the internet, I also saw a tip of using turtle wax for very mild blemishes, so I'll also give that a shot on one of our scrap pieces that's banging around.

 

[Shayla]

(I won't get in to what I know about cleaning paintings!)

If the words 'enzymatic cleaner' aren't involved in this, I'll eat an almond bear claw. (Had to make my consequences bearable.)

I'm hoping someone comes along with a solution better than this for getting a line off of plexi. Maybe someone at Tru Vue knows how. Or maybe they're all out in the warehouse rolling Q-tips on the backs of their necks.

 

[JB Garrett]

S

If the words 'enzymatic cleaner' aren't involved in this, I'll eat an almond bear claw. (Had to make my consequences bearable.)

I'm hoping someone comes along with a solution better than this for getting a line off of plexi. Maybe someone at Tru Vue knows how. Or maybe they're all out in the warehouse rolling Q-tips on the backs of their necks. lol....

Bingo!

 

[GreyDrakkon]

Funny enough the "enzyme cleaner" came up on a forum I'm following where there's lots of hand sewing going on. Turns out it's the best way to remove blood from fabric, preferably your own though.

 

[wpfay]

We used facial oil on the metal ferrules of our split bamboo fly rods to facilitate assembly and mitigate rust.
I've also heard of sculptors that use it on finished marble work.

 

[DVieau2]

Any photo printer knows nose grease for scratches on negatives.

 

[artfolio]

The digestive enzymes found in saliva are great for food stains as well as blood and I found them particularly useful for removing hardened fly specks on moulding or artwork. My conservator referred to this as "lick" but, of course, for fly poo a finger makes a more sanitary applicator.

I wonder what other bodily fluids may be useful in other ways?

 

[Prospero]

Going off on a slight tangent...... I was looking for a way to 'revive' the black exterior plastic parts on
by venerable Land Rover Discovery (1999 vintage). I looked on YooToob and there are 100s of patent
methods. I tried a few and some work better than others, but in the end it was good old WD-40 that
worked best. All the grey bits are back to showroom black.
Apparently there are oils in plastic that get lost an need replacing.