Pipe-Cutting Jig

Shayla

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Hubby made this wooden jig box, to hold 6" plastic pipe for cutting. The box is around seven feet long, with a two-section lid.

Three photos:

dirks pipe cutting jig image 7064 feb 2020.jpg

dirks pipe jig end view.jpg


This last one shows the box open. Lid laid flat toward back, and a pipe inside of it. It worked well.

dirks pipe jig from top.jpg
 
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Nice jig. A bit over-engineered from a cabinetmaker perspective (any fortifying could have been done internally, and with glue blocks about half the size of the ones used externally), but certainly robust.
The kwestion remains...why?
 
Nice jig. A bit over-engineered from a cabinetmaker perspective (any fortifying could have been done internally, and with glue blocks about half the size of the ones used externally), but certainly robust.
The kwestion remains...why?

He's fine with over-engineering things, so it's all good. lol....

He also likes feedback, so thanks for the suggestion. :)

As for why, he just replaced our dust collection system, which had 4" pipes, with a system that uses 6". Rather than making random, wobbly cuts, he popped this together for holding the tubes in place. When he had the sawmill, he and his son designed a thing that could hold a 40 foot log without getting dog marks in the wood. He finds working in framing interesting, because after 35 years of working with raw wood, now he gets to tinker with finished wood.
 
As an engineer he will also know the needed CFM vacuum to move the dust through a 6" pipe (I think "a lot" is not enough). I have a 2HP 220V 1 Ph. Grizzly dust extractor and running the two 6" ports (single hose from machine that has a "Y" splitter to go to either side of the saw cabinet) to the saw's collection system is barely enough. These saws have way too many air leaks in the cabinets for the dust collection to ever be really effective.
Does the system have an in-line turbine chip collector? It's a big help with avoiding jamming the dust extractor with milling from the surface plane. I have a vert simple one that works great. It is a modified trash can lid that fits on a 33 gallon metal trash can. All the chips get deposited there instead of the bags on the dust extractor.
Also have a 5 hp Shop-Vac that I wheel around to various tools with both a 2" and a 4' hose system.
 
As an engineer he will also know the needed CFM vacuum to move the dust through a 6" pipe (I think "a lot" is not enough). I have a 2HP 220V 1 Ph. Grizzly dust extractor and running the two 6" ports (single hose from machine that has a "Y" splitter to go to either side of the saw cabinet) to the saw's collection system is barely enough. These saws have way too many air leaks in the cabinets for the dust collection to ever be really effective.
Does the system have an in-line turbine chip collector? It's a big help with avoiding jamming the dust extractor with milling from the surface plane. I have a vert simple one that works great. It is a modified trash can lid that fits on a 33 gallon metal trash can. All the chips get deposited there instead of the bags on the dust extractor.
Also have a 5 hp Shop-Vac that I wheel around to various tools with both a 2" and a 4' hose system.

High five! He just put in a Grizzly. :beer:

I'll share pics pretty soon.
 
why did you chop his head off?



in the pics i mean
 
why did you chop his head off?



in the pics i mean

I've learned that it always grows back.

Actually, that's not his head. It's the head of the guy we hired to help install this and storage shelves.
I should write and ask how he's been managing to eat.
 
Nice jig. A bit over-engineered from a cabinetmaker perspective (any fortifying could have been done internally, and with glue blocks about half the size of the ones used externally), but certainly robust.
The kwestion remains...why?

This was D2729 pvc. Wall thickness .100. My lack of experience with this stuff engendered some caution as I feared shattering during the cut. Found a circle saw blade with a negative hook angle to avoid any self-feeding tendencies. Measuring wasn't tough as not shown in the photos was my stop block. It took three passes to cut the entire circumference. With the stop block, the pipe could be rotated for subsequent passes without much offset. Reciprocating saws leave such a mess of the ends, and I wasn't about to attempt hand-holding 6-inch pipe against a miter saw fence. Using a circle saw in this jig allowed chamfering with a hand-held burr remover. Unlike schedule 40 pvc, this stuff could be shoved all the way into D3034 fittings with a little help from WD-40. Then screwed together.
Best of all, my shoulders survived the experience - not so sure that would have been the case with a hand saw.
 
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