Nielsen Aluminium Corners

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osgood

osgood

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I wonder do any of you have the problem of gaps in the top of the corners of Neilsen aluminium joints, using the neilsen corner hardware?

The same problem exists if I buy chops or cut them myself and I have checked that the cuts are accurate. The outside edge of the corner is always 90 degrees to the base.

I always have to put a small bend in the corner piece that contains the screws to get the top of the joint to close up.

Is there something obvious I am not doing right with this hardware?
 
Are you using the two part corners or the quick corners? If you use the two part corners without using the base plates you'll have that kind of problem. The quick corners work as well and cost the same as the two part corners and are easier to use.

I don't know why they still offer the two part corners.

Dave Makielski
 
We switched to quick corners several months ago and it has helped, as Dave said.
 
The two part corners, using both parts and the problem is always the same.
It seems that there is not enough pressure exerted to pull the top of the joint together when I use the hardware as it comes to me.

I have not seen "Quick Corners". I should give them a try!
Thanks.
 
duhhhhhhh

Dave said:
......I don't know why they still offer the two part corners...
Click to expand...

Dave,

'Cause that's all we use! :p
 
Try inserting the corner hardware (both back plate and screw plate) as far as it will go into the moulding, then tighten. Repeat on the opposite end. Then when you attach the side piece, always lay it flat on the table and push it all the way on. This will allow movement only in two dimensions. The hardware should have a slight camber built in that will draw the face of the frame together. Do not over tighten as this will distort the moulding and may cause the face to open. When we started using this technique, it solved 99% of the problem. Good luck.

PS. Don't let the "grumbler in training" fool you, we've been at it for 23 years.

Steve
 
We had the same problem when we first began cutting our own metal.

We adjusted the fence of the saw table to tilt very slightly forward. Placing a shim (a single #1200 mat cutter blade) under the lock-down bolt of the fence, eliminated the paper thin gap we were seeing in the front of the moulding.

I doubt very much that changing to the Quick Corners would help that much. I prefer the tapped corners with the back plates. I feel that with the back plate, the pressure is distributed more evenly resulting in a tighter, stronger corner than the Quick Corners can provide. Also, with the back plate system, I don’t see the “dimple” in the channel that we used to get occasionally using the Quick Corner.
 
I only use the tapped corners as well. I believe I remember learning the embossed letter on the bottom plate should be facing up in order to draw the corners together. Never have had a problem with them unless the chop was actually a bad one. Unfortunately that happens some times.

Lori
 
I believe I remember learning the embossed letter on the bottom plate should be facing up in order to draw the corners together.
Click to expand...

Oddly enough, Lori, I heard just the opposite from the N-B rep. But, she couldn’t give me a reason why. I still do it the way she suggested, but, logically, I wouldn’t think it should make no never mind as long as the back plates are truly flat.

Anyone have a definitive and logical reason to position the back plates oriented with the stamped letter either up or down?
 
I'd probably just suggest from the input here that if the corner doesn't match up well, flip the base plate over no matter what side was facing up!

Dave Makielski
 
Bill Henry- said:
Oddly enough, Lori, I heard just the opposite from the N-B rep. But, she couldn’t give me a reason why. I still do it the way she suggested, but, logically, I wouldn’t think it should make no never mind as long as the back plates are truly flat.

Anyone have a definitive and logical reason to position the back plates oriented with the stamped letter either up or down?
Click to expand...

When I started framing (over 21 years ago) I was told that the base plate has a curve to it (not that I could ever see it) and that the "b" or "face" side of the plate should go down. I know that the new box of AMS base plates are not marked. :shrug:
 
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