Hi, I am looking for hinging tape. I want to improve my framing skills and am looking for advice. I have a few pieces that I will be installing, size is 30 x 40 and similar on deckled edges. These are valued around 10k each. I will be float mounting one and the other will be behind a mat. I am currently looking at Lineco Hayaku Hinging Tape. From what I understand I should be using Japanese Mulberry Paper. I have been researching t-hinge and v-hinge techniques.
Mounting tape advice
- Thread starter greendirt
- Start date
Nikodeumus
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Hi greendirt, welcome to the Grumble.
You are on the right track by learning to use better quality, and more professional framing materials and techniques.
The type of type and the "weight" of the tape will depend on the art paper weight, thickness, flatness, durability, mounting method, etc.
What kind of paste or you looking into? Rice starch or Wheat starch are common, but there are other kinds as well.
Have you heard of Talas? https://www.talasonline.com/ Conservation, Archival & Bookbinding Supplies | TALAS
For the float mount use the Grumble search tool for "hedgehog mount".
The primary word here is...learning.
Practice using these materials and methods several times before attempting something you have never done with a customer's very valuable property.
Welcome to the G!
At that value, bring it to a framer who knows how to do this. Do not experiment with it yourself. Lineco Hayaku has a place in framing, but not for a piece that valuable. Without knowing a bit more, weight of paper for instance, it will be hard to give good advice.
I
At that value, bring it to a framer who knows how to do this. Do not experiment with it yourself. Lineco Hayaku has a place in framing, but not for a piece that valuable. Without knowing a bit more, weight of paper for instance, it will be hard to give good advice.
I
Hi, greendirt. Welcome to the Grumble! 
Hayaku must work for plenty of folks, but for me, the results were too unpredictable. It's really worth learning to make mulberry hinges. For that, you basically have two options.
The first, taking it to a framer who is skilled with this method. With an important caution: Many framers have no idea how to mulberry hinge, and if they do, they still might not
understand placement. Make sure it's someone who's done plenty of it. If you're a picture framer, ask a local supplier who they recommend. If you're not, look up independently
owned custom framers in Austin, and ask. Considering the value of the prints, you'll also want to make sure they carry adequate coverage. Most do, but it's worth asking. In a
friendly email is even better, because if anything happens, you have their reply in writing.
The other option is to do it yourself. This will require, so that you can first practice on other items. One help when first learning is to use thin paper. Hinging with printer paper,
or even magazine pages, helps one learn the right amount of paste to use. It also helps to look up resources. There are great framing books available through the PPFA, and
please also look at the frametek .com website. Greg's articles library there is worth it's weight in gold. It explains so many things, including the proper way to float hinge.
The Talas site, linked by Wally above, is great. We buy our mulberry paper sheets from Hiromi paper, which sells in different weights. For the cross-hinges, I usually use
mulberry paper on a roll, from Larson Juhl. We also buy our rice starch from them. Many framers use wheat starch, but I began with rice and stuck with it. Also, because
these are quite large, you'll need sturdy enough hinges to support it, as well as a sturdy support backing. They say that the hinges should be slightly lighter weight than
the paper, so that if it's jarred, they'll tear, rather than the art. But also....it's good to have hinges strong enough to support the art. Wishing you success!
Hayaku must work for plenty of folks, but for me, the results were too unpredictable. It's really worth learning to make mulberry hinges. For that, you basically have two options.
The first, taking it to a framer who is skilled with this method. With an important caution: Many framers have no idea how to mulberry hinge, and if they do, they still might not
understand placement. Make sure it's someone who's done plenty of it. If you're a picture framer, ask a local supplier who they recommend. If you're not, look up independently
owned custom framers in Austin, and ask. Considering the value of the prints, you'll also want to make sure they carry adequate coverage. Most do, but it's worth asking. In a
friendly email is even better, because if anything happens, you have their reply in writing.
The other option is to do it yourself. This will require, so that you can first practice on other items. One help when first learning is to use thin paper. Hinging with printer paper,
or even magazine pages, helps one learn the right amount of paste to use. It also helps to look up resources. There are great framing books available through the PPFA, and
please also look at the frametek .com website. Greg's articles library there is worth it's weight in gold. It explains so many things, including the proper way to float hinge.
The Talas site, linked by Wally above, is great. We buy our mulberry paper sheets from Hiromi paper, which sells in different weights. For the cross-hinges, I usually use
mulberry paper on a roll, from Larson Juhl. We also buy our rice starch from them. Many framers use wheat starch, but I began with rice and stuck with it. Also, because
these are quite large, you'll need sturdy enough hinges to support it, as well as a sturdy support backing. They say that the hinges should be slightly lighter weight than
the paper, so that if it's jarred, they'll tear, rather than the art. But also....it's good to have hinges strong enough to support the art. Wishing you success!