Assuming a 1" deep moulding, and no reinforcement behind, what is the minimum width wood moulding that you would use to frame a 36"x48" print with glass?
Opinions Wanted Minimum width moulding for 36"x48"
- Thread starter alacrity8
- Start date
I don't know. It depends on the frame itself for me.
Is the 1" inside or outside? If inside, and wood, I'd say maybe...... 1.25?
I'd sure try to convince the customer that acrylic is a better glazing choice. I voted 2.5", assuming it's a wood moulding. With metal you could use something a little less in width but it still has to hold lot of weight.
LaFontsee
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
It's going to depend on the quality of the wood. A good solid hardwood I'd feel comfortable going as small as 1.25-1.5". If it was a really soft wood that many compo frames are made of, I think 2-2.5" would be minimum.
Good point. I've only used compo a few times, so it's not on my radar.
Hence my 'depends on the frame itself' comment.
Something like the Alto line from LJ, I would say 3" for sure (it being very light weight). However, it is not how I work. If customer wants a certain frame, I will make it happen by building a strainer to support it.
Something like the Alto line from LJ, I would say 3" for sure (it being very light weight). However, it is not how I work. If customer wants a certain frame, I will make it happen by building a strainer to support it.
I selected "Other" because, it depends. And I wanted to see what the other votes were...
Sorry, way too many variables for good data. If you were to redo it with a single line of moulding (Vermont Hardwood's maple line and/or Studio's Kota comes to mind) that has several width choices and are all of the same relative density, you might get better information, but it is all still going to be opinion heavy.
Mary Beth van der Horst
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
All variables aside, I have an old chart I refer to when something seems iffy:
I don't count the lip of the frame when determining the moulding width on this chart.
That being said, gut instinct overrides the chart. Hardwood mouldings have more leeway, and most of this applies to framing simple prints on paper where most of the weight is just a piece of glass. I rarely consult the chart, but it makes me feel safe to have numbers to look at when in doubt.
Moulding Width | Longest Length |
½” | 18” |
¾” | 28” |
1” | 32” |
1 ¼” | 40” |
1 ½” | 44” |
1 ¾” | 48” |
2” | 54” |
2 ½” | 60” |
I don't count the lip of the frame when determining the moulding width on this chart.
That being said, gut instinct overrides the chart. Hardwood mouldings have more leeway, and most of this applies to framing simple prints on paper where most of the weight is just a piece of glass. I rarely consult the chart, but it makes me feel safe to have numbers to look at when in doubt.
The point of this was a worst case scenario.
I'm not looking for a what to do if I am using solid Walnut, but as a guideline for those who do not have experience.
I've tried to ask questions like this before, and been told "Use Common Sense"
That always brings me to "Common Sense isn't Common"
Thank you for your input.
I'm not looking for a what to do if I am using solid Walnut, but as a guideline for those who do not have experience.
I've tried to ask questions like this before, and been told "Use Common Sense"
That always brings me to "Common Sense isn't Common"
Thank you for your input.
Yep, and it's funny, how many times something we wouldn't do still works. I'm big on only using tiny frames for tiny things. But, then someone brings in an 18 x 24 in an eensy little wood frame that's been just fine for a hundred and fifty million years. So, go figure. ha ha... Several years ago, we framed a couple of 20 x 30 mirrors in a quarter inch wide walnut that was a couple of inches deep. We made a recessed strainer and glued the mirrors to that with mastic. Then, we made little wood blocks and glue them to both strainer and frame. With z-bar attached to the recessed strainer, they were flush to the wall. We're also very thankful for our Hoffman jointer, which makes it possible to join narrow mouldings. Thanks for letting me add all this. You sounded kind of done, but I'm sittin' here, snackin' on ramen and feeling the vibes. Have enjoyed this thread, and I'm glad you asked. 
I think, if worst case scenario and I'm thinking the lightest wood someone would pick, I'd say 3" minimal then
The fear of that size and too much flexibility in the moulding, is asking for disaster.
The fear of that size and too much flexibility in the moulding, is asking for disaster.
Another variance is the hanging system being used. I might use a more narrow frame than I'd like, but will only use wall buddies vs a wire...
DVieau2
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Every Shop should have the ability to construct a support strainer frame when needed.
Even the most narrow, lightweight frame will work if it isn't carrying the load.
Even the most narrow, lightweight frame will work if it isn't carrying the load.
Ditto here. I have 3/4" mouldings that I will take to 36", other 3/4" mouldings I won't go past 18". Also hardwood vs softwood, vs crumble wood. The bottom line is it all depends..................... The height of the moulding is also a major factor. I have some 3/4" that comes in 7/8", 1 1/8" and 1 3/4" depths. The bigger the depth, the wider the moulding can go.
...and if someone's brave enough to use a Kreg jig on a skinny frame.
We've used it on things 3/4" wide, but are still wary of super skinny ones. A few frames have been brought in over the years, that were really narrow, with sturdy strainers.
Seems insanely hard to drill a tilted hole into a back less than 3/8" wide, without going through, but some ninja did.
Or, you can use countersunk screws from the outside... tell the customer the screws will be visible, and are part of the design. (It is the "price" for being able to use such a narrow profile.) This can look nice if you do it carefully. The Kulicke welded metal frames featured screws through the outside into the strainer, and so do acrylic boxes. I've also seen "gallery style" narrow wood stem mouldings with visible screws...and if someone's brave enough to use a Kreg jig on a skinny frame.
Rick
We use Kreg pocket hole screws on our 1/2" face, 5/16" stem profiles. Couldn't make it work on our 3/8"face, 7/32" stem ones......and if someone's brave enough to use a Kreg jig on a skinny frame.
We've used it on things 3/4" wide, but are still wary of super skinny ones. A few frames have been brought in over the years, that were really narrow, with sturdy strainers.
Seems insanely hard to drill a tilted hole into a back less than 3/8" wide, without going through, but some ninja did.
DVieau2
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
When I mentioned a strainer frame for support, I envisioned a strong beefer frame behind the art and behind a smaller, decorative frame, hidden from view....and if someone's brave enough to use a Kreg jig on a skinny frame.
No requirement for Kreg jig for the skinny frame in the front.
Sometimes there is some problem solving involved to hide a strainers rabbit, side view or attaching the small frame,
...and if someone's brave enough to use a Kreg jig on a skinny frame.
That proves you are brave.
Rick
Yes. Most timed that I've seen this, the small frame and strainer were attached with a kreg jig. Although, now that Rick mentions it, I do recall a couple that came in with screws through the outside of the frame, going into the strainer. In this setup you described, if you don't screw them together, how do you attach them to each other? I can imagine a few different ways, but am curious as to what you think. And what sort of item you might be imagining it for. ( i.e. art with glazing, or a canvas, or a mirror stuck to strainer wirh mastic, etc....)
DVieau2
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I was always quick to throw together a strainer frame for strength.
Every project was a little different with different solutions for holding things together. I didn't have one way of doing things.
Screws or brads were often used but I didn't have a Kreg jig. A tabletop drill press helped to make sure screws went where they were supposed to.
Fitting hardware that was visible was a last resort and rare.
I would say my best friend was the tablesaw. Being able to rip down wood to fit the project was invaluable. I never liked to see a strainer stand proud of the back of the moulding but sometimes it happened. Extending the depth of the customer's choice frame was often a solution.
LF Tony
Grumbler in Training
It depends on the depth of the moulding. If the depth is 1 1/2-2", you should be able to keep it to one inch wide. With the extra depth, add a nice rigid foam that fits tight. That will act as a backwall and keep it square. This could also be done with 1/4" plywood.