Metalic/Pearl photo prints

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laurieS

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
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Hi
About 3 months ago I framed a photo that had a Metallic/Pearl finish. I hand mounted it on sticky board i.e not using a vacuum press however the photo has now developed "blister" like bubbles on one side.
I realize there is no way to save the photo but I also cannot see any point in sticking down another one if it's going to do the same.

I was wondering if anyone has had issues mounting these type of photos with a Metallic finish and what might be the best way to mount them?

Cheers
Laurie
 
Any pressure sensitive adhesive board really needs to be put through a set of rollers to get a consistent pressure and stick it down, Sticking it down by hand isn't the best way. You may get away with it but you may
become unstuck pardon the pun. Heat activated board obviously needs to go in a vacuum press.
 
Hi
Thanks for the reply. We don't have rollers but I assume if we put it under a sheet of perplex and some heavy weight that would work as well?
 
The finish on the top of the print shouldn't matter.

What kind of sticky board?

I've used Crescent Perfect mount with good results. You do need a brayer roller and a place to let it cure overnight. I always put it under some weight but mostly to keep it from warping. I never cconsidered the weight (piece of glass) to be a factor in the pressure required.
 
I usually platform mount this kind of thing, works well and no sticky stuff required, zero chance of knackering the print and no orange peal.

Oh and it's quite quick too
 
Hi
Thanks for all the great ideas. We used Crescent Perfect mount but from the comments there must be rollers involved.
I was curious what "Platform Mount" is. Is this another name for block mounting?
 
laurieS said:
I was curious what "Platform Mount" is. Is this another name for block mounting?
Click to expand...
No, it's not the same. You can find several previous threads mentioning "Platform Mounting" if you search the Grumble archives for that term, but here is a link to a thread that includes a cut-away detail drawing.
 
I find it especially good for multi aperture mounts also for seating cove boxes.
 
Hi Again
Sorry for the late replies.
Jim, I had a look at the PDF cut away view and its very interesting, I would like to try this out myself.
Can you tell me if this method works with a single mats as well?
Also, the diagram indicates "Platform Mat Window: Document Size + 0.15" but the Platform Mat Window looks almost same size as the top and bottom mat.
Can you explain this measurement a bit more.

Cheers
laurie
 
Also thanks for the info about KoolTack. This Peal stuff "seems" odd and I was wondering how it would go under heat

Laurie
 
I've used the platform method often, although for most of that time I didn't know it was called that. :rolleyes:

It works best if there is no huge border to cover with the mat. Just enough to tuck under the bevel.
It's better with some papers than others. Some stuff will go wavy whatever you do - bar sticking down.
As for that, I tend to go for the unstuck option first knowing that if the thing does not behave you can
always stick it later. And not having any hinges stuck to it makes that simpler.
 
btw. When doing cig cards where there is only a tiny sliver that goes under the mat you can
platform the cards using the window drop-outs as the bevel overlap gives you just enough space to
do it. Small cards don't need so much jiggle-room. :)
 
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