Mat cutter + work table question

[VixSA]

Hi all.
I'm busy getting all my framing kit together (slowly but surely) and the last pieces I need are a mat cutter and a work table. I've been trying to decide whether it's best to design the table so that the mat cutter is flush with the work top (with a "shelf" on one side of the table that the mat cutter will sit on that is slightly lower than the table top). Or am I just complicating the design of the table by trying to do that? I think the most difficult thing will be to have an accurate cut out in the table top for the measuring arm on the right of the cutter to fit into to make it the same height as the table top. The other consideration is that the table top cut out (and other dimensions like the depth of the shelf for the cutter to sit on) would be specific to the type of mat cutter I get now (probably a second hand Ultimat Gold) and if I ever upgrade, the new one might not fit

How many people just use their mat cutters directly on a table top? Does the drop in height from the edge of the mat cutter to the table top ever cause problems when cutting things? I know some people mount their cutters on the wall, but that's not an option for me as I don't have enough wall space.

Any input from experienced framers very much appreciated!
Vickie

 

[wpfay]

If you are going to be using the squaring arm on your mat cutter to size sheet goods, you are better served with the mat bed (and hence the squaring arm) flush with the work surface.

My original manual cutter was built into the bench when it was my primary mat cutter. Later, I bought a different brand manual cutter and installed it flush to the bench as well, but this time I built a cantilevered frame support off the side of the bench to accommodate the new cutter.

At one point, just before getting my first CMC, I had the mat cutter hinged to the edge of the bench with gate-leg supports that folded out when in use. It was also flush with the table when in use, but wasn't used for sizing materials.

When I rarely use my manual cutters now, I just put them on the bench top. I don't like that they sit higher than the bench surface, and if I were using them more I would find a way to see that they were flush.

 

[Nikodeumus]

I can't imagine using my manual mat cutter on top of rather than flush with the bench surface.
I guess it depends on the construction of the brand of cutter you get?
A suggestion for your build plan...build the part of the bench your mat cutter will rest on lower than you think you need it.
Then you can use spacers and shims of whatever scrap material you want to raise the bed of whichever brand mat cutter you end up with to be flush with the bench surface.

 

[VixSA]

I can't imagine using my manual mat cutter on top of rather than flush with the bench surface.
I guess it depends on the construction of the brand of cutter you get?
A suggestion for your build plan...build the part of the bench your mat cutter will rest on lower than you think you need it.
Then you can use spacers and shims of whatever scrap material you want to raise the bed of whichever brand mat cutter you end up with to be flush with the bench surface.

View attachment 49176

Thanks for that suggestion. How would you allow space for the squaring arm so that it is also flush with the table top? Just cut a portion of the table top out?

 

[Nikodeumus]

Thanks for that suggestion. How would you allow space for the squaring arm so that it is also flush with the table top? Just cut a portion of the table top out?

I square my mats on a wall mounted material cutter so don't have the squaring arm attached to my mat cutter.
I think your idea of cutting a notch from the bench top for the squaring arm to keep it the same plane as the bench top and mat cutter bed makes sense.

 

[Larry Peterson]

I square my mats on a wall mounted material cutter so don't have the squaring arm attached to my mat cutter.
I think your idea of cutting a notch from the bench top for the squaring arm to keep it the same plane as the\ bench top and mat cutter bed makes sense.

That is the reason I don't have mine flush. I use the squaring arm for cutting foam core sink mats a lot. Other than that I am ambivalent about having it flush. Whats important to me is to have the table bed well supported so there is no chance of the mat cutter flexing/warping.

 

[alacrity8]

I have seen pictures of these squaring arms, but never seen one in person.
The last company I worked at had 5 shops with 1-2 C&H cutters apiece, and no Squaring arms.
A decade or so ago I bought the contents of another Frame Shop that came with a C&H looking mat cutter hinged to the edge of the table. No squaring arm.
In theory I understand their use, but a wall cutter, or 40" Dahle paper cutter (as we use) will give you a good squaring if calibrated well.

If you are not worried about the squaring arm, the inch or so difference between the mat cutter, and the tabletop doesn't really matter.
Previous company would cut oversized mats upside down on the wrong side of the cutter, which would require moving the cutter to allow for the misplaced mat to lay on the table.

We do raise our table surface slightly around the mat cutter with 1/4" Needlepoint board (my preferred work surface).
With the board surrounding the cutter, it helps keep it from shifting location while in use.
In theory we could mount it to the table, but I like to be able to remove it for oversize projects.

 

[VixSA]

That is the reason I don't have mine flush. I use the squaring arm for cutting foam core sink mats a lot. Other than that I am ambivalent about having it flush. Whats important to me is to have the table bed well supported so there is no chance of the mat cutter flexing/warping

I was a bit worried about the cut out for the squaring arm compromising the stability of the table top. I guess it depends on the design of the table... Will have to think about that carefully.

I have seen pictures of these squaring arms, but never seen one in person.
The last company I worked at had 5 shops with 1-2 C&H cutters apiece, and no Squaring arms.
A decade or so ago I bought the contents of another Frame Shop that came with a C&H looking mat cutter hinged to the edge of the table. No squaring arm.
In theory I understand their use, but a wall cutter, or 40" Dahle paper cutter (as we use) will give you a good squaring if calibrated well.

If you are not worried about the squaring arm, the inch or so difference between the mat cutter, and the tabletop doesn't really matter.
Previous company would cut oversized mats upside down on the wrong side of the cutter, which would require moving the cutter to allow for the misplaced mat to lay on the table.

We do raise our table surface slightly around the mat cutter with 1/4" Needlepoint board (my preferred work surface).
With the board surrounding the cutter, it helps keep it from shifting location while in use.
In theory we could mount it to the table, but I like to be able to remove it for oversize projects.

I will be using the squaring arm to cut foam core/backing boards etc as i don't have a wall cutter or paper guillotine. I'm a small scale framer, just setting up, so my kit is limited. I do also like the idea of being able to move the cutter off the table for bigger projects but I was concerned that by not mounting it flush that I'm going to struggle with the height difference between the cutter and table top (the cutter is about 3cm thick).

I guess, if the cutter isn't mounted into the bench, I could make a separate support to put next to the cutter when I'm cutting oversized sheets to make them flush to the cutter surface. Maybe stacked foam core sheets stuck together to make a 3cm thick piece. Easy to move in to place when needed and store it out of the way when not. I'm limited for space so need to make the most of what I've got and have things be as versatile as possible.

 

[Jim Miller]

For my Fletcher mat cutter, I recessed the mat cutter's base into the bench top, as shown in Nik's good drawing. Since the squaring arm is attached to the top surface of the cutter, it's screwed to the top of the bench (with provision for fine adjustment of squareness) which eliminated the need for the angled support bar. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you recessed the whole assembly enough to make the squaring arm flush with the table top, how could you use squaring arm? And wouldn't the surface of the cutter be below the table's top?

 

[VixSA]

For my Fletcher mat cutter, I recessed the mat cutter's base into the bench top, as shown in Nik's good drawing. Since the squaring arm is attached to the top surface of the cutter, it's screwed to the top of the bench (with provision for fine adjustment of squareness) which eliminated the need for the angled support bar. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you recessed the whole assembly enough to make the squaring arm flush with the table top, how could you use squaring arm? And wouldn't the surface of the cutter be below the table's top?

Maybe your squaring arm is arranged differently. This one clips into the side of the mat cutter. If the cutter is recessed enough to be flush with the table then the squaring arm will be at the right height to use it.

I'm leaning towards just using it on the table top and making a support next to it for bigger boards. Less complicated than trying to get all the measurements for the recess on the table correct and i can remove it from the table if i want to use the whole table area for big projects.

 

[Mendolynn]

Hi all.
I'm busy getting all my framing kit together (slowly but surely) and the last pieces I need are a mat cutter and a work table. I've been trying to decide whether it's best to design the table so that the mat cutter is flush with the work top (with a "shelf" on one side of the table that the mat cutter will sit on that is slightly lower than the table top). Or am I just complicating the design of the table by trying to do that? I think the most difficult thing will be to have an accurate cut out in the table top for the measuring arm on the right of the cutter to fit into to make it the same height as the table top. The other consideration is that the table top cut out (and other dimensions like the depth of the shelf for the cutter to sit on) would be specific to the type of mat cutter I get now (probably a second hand Ultimat Gold) and if I ever upgrade, the new one might not fit

How many people just use their mat cutters directly on a table top? Does the drop in height from the edge of the mat cutter to the table top ever cause problems when cutting things? I know some people mount their cutters on the wall, but that's not an option for me as I don't have enough wall space.

Any input from experienced framers very much appreciated!
Vickie

Hello Vickie, we have a picture framing table that may be perfect for you. It was made my Framers Friend and we also have some attachments such as the Shelf-Mate and the Tool & Tape - Mate. The table is 4'x8' with many slots under the table for mat, print and frame storage. The table is gently used and in perfect condition. We also have several other pieces (tools, equipment and materials) for custom framing.

 

[Prospero]

The main thing is to make sure the cutter is dead flat on the table. Any dip in the middle will cause problems.
It's best to have the cutter permanently in one location if possible.
Mine is on the table top with a wood chock at each end so it can't move when you are cutting. I also made a
platform that sits on the right so the whole job is on one level. It makes life a lot easier when manipulating
large mats.

 

[wpfay]

How easily does the squaring arm attach/detach to/from the mat cutter?

I have used a hinged mat cutter in the past, and it is great for space conservation, and for getting it out of the way for larger pieces (mat bench has always doubled as a fitting table).
If the squaring arm does just easily clip to the edge of the mat cutter, simply removing it, releasing whatever supports you have for the mat cutter, and swing it down out of the way seems like a solution that doesn't require modifying the bench top to accommodate the cutter. The hardware to accomplish this would be similar to that used in a drop-leaf table.

 

[Jim Miller]

Here's a photo of my mat cutting table, showing how the mat cutter is recessed into the top and the sq

uaring arm rests on the surface.

 

[Rick Granick]

I don't use my dry mount press as often as I used to in the old days, so I made a way to create some extra tabletop space. When flipped up, the lower side tables are at the same height as the top of the foam pad in the press. This has worked great for almost 20 years.
Rick

 

[Rick Granick]

Here's a photo of my mat cutting table, showing how the mat cutter is recessed into the top and the squaring arm rests on the surface.

Before I got my Wizard, I had the C+H embedded into the tabletop like that. It now lives under the Wizard, and I slide it out when I want to use it.

Rick

 

[alacrity8]

I don't use my dry mount press as often as I used to in the old days, so I made a way to create some extra tabletop space. When flipped up, the lower side tables are at the same height as the top of the foam pad in the press. This has worked great for almost 20 years.
Rick

View attachment 50937 View attachment 50938

I have considered doing something very similar for art shows.
My current Mounting table only has a few inches all around it. The previous table had about a foot extra on either side, and customers would always want to set food on the table during art shows. We haven't had many shows these last few years, since I built the newer table.