Which one is better at your opinion?
Manual vs Pneumatic v-nailer.
- Thread starter Gilder
- Start date
FM Framer
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
This is a "no brainer" - if you have already compressor
I have always used a pneumatic v-nailer. I have a Inmes UP4, it has a really great clamping system.
I know there are a few people out there who love their manual ones.
I was thinking about getting a manual one just to use as a backup. The price point is better.
I asked a fellow framer once who uses a manual one about stacking v-nails and joining hard wood frames and he said no problem.
I know there are a few people out there who love their manual ones.
I was thinking about getting a manual one just to use as a backup. The price point is better.
I asked a fellow framer once who uses a manual one about stacking v-nails and joining hard wood frames and he said no problem.
I have pneumatic v-nailer /actually 2 of them/ and really tired from issues like leaking air.
graysalchemy
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
How have you tried to fix leaking air? I have owned the same cassese 3099 from new 10yrs old and never had an issue with leaking air. Do you get it professionally serviced at all?
Is it the v-nailer or is it the fittings? Don't use the cheap carp fittings they sell at the home stores. Get good professional quality fittings.
I use the red Type D of these: http://www.legacymfg.com/colorconnex/
I have a 33 gal compressor connected to my v-nailer, my pneumatic point driver, my pneumatic carton stapler and two 50' air lines connected to retractable air reels with air blowers on the end. All connected with the Red Color Connect fittings. When nothing is being used my compressor comes on about once an hour. All the fittings are properly sealed with plumbers thread tape.
Here is a good starter kit for for $22.26 with free shipping if are a Prime member. https://www.amazon.com/ColorConnex-...id=1485886780&sr=1-1&keywords=colorconnex+red
I would isolate the air leaks by wrapping your hand around each fitting. If it leaks, redo/replace the fitting and seal it properly. If the air leaks are in the v-nailer, talk to their tech support about what to do. You may have to replace some internal air lines and fittings.
I use the red Type D of these: http://www.legacymfg.com/colorconnex/
I have a 33 gal compressor connected to my v-nailer, my pneumatic point driver, my pneumatic carton stapler and two 50' air lines connected to retractable air reels with air blowers on the end. All connected with the Red Color Connect fittings. When nothing is being used my compressor comes on about once an hour. All the fittings are properly sealed with plumbers thread tape.
Here is a good starter kit for for $22.26 with free shipping if are a Prime member. https://www.amazon.com/ColorConnex-...id=1485886780&sr=1-1&keywords=colorconnex+red
I would isolate the air leaks by wrapping your hand around each fitting. If it leaks, redo/replace the fitting and seal it properly. If the air leaks are in the v-nailer, talk to their tech support about what to do. You may have to replace some internal air lines and fittings.
It is in v-nailer, both of them have foot pedal leaks, to be exact it's coming from the tubes of the pedals and I don't know how to deal with it. I really feel stupid, would be nice if someone showed me how to fix that but I only know one person who can and he works for Larson Juhl in Minneapolis, far from me. Should I replace the pedal? I tried to cut the tubes and push them again in it unsuccessfully.
Which v-nailer?
I believe it's Cassese 89.
graysalchemy
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Oh nice fittings Larry, wish we had them then i could have a colour co ordinated workshop. one colour for clean air and another for lubed air.
So are the pipes leaking were the they join or actually the pipe. Also does the pipe work push on over a barbed tail or is it a push in connector?
So are the pipes leaking were the they join or actually the pipe. Also does the pipe work push on over a barbed tail or is it a push in connector?
Not the pipes but where they connect in connectors to the pedal.
graysalchemy
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Are the connectors like this
or this
or this
graysalchemy
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Ah ok so they are the push fits. They probably need pulling out and pushing back in. If you push down the collar that releases them. You also need to push them down to put the pipe back in. One thing you do need to make sure is that the pipes are square cut.
Can you feel air leaking from the connectors? it may well be that it is leaking inside the pedal. I don't know how they work as my 3099 is electronic, but i assume there must be some kind of valves inside.
Can you feel air leaking from the connectors? it may well be that it is leaking inside the pedal. I don't know how they work as my 3099 is electronic, but i assume there must be some kind of valves inside.
My old v-nailer was a Cassese 89. It lived 20 years...I went through many foot pedals the last few years of it's life.
It was a good machine with very little problems over the years. You may be able just to change out the value that is leaking on the foot pedal instead of replacing the whole pedal. It would certainly save you some money than buying a new pedal.
It was a good machine with very little problems over the years. You may be able just to change out the value that is leaking on the foot pedal instead of replacing the whole pedal. It would certainly save you some money than buying a new pedal.
FM Framer
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
If you were closer I'd take a took at it for you. You most likely just need the to replace the ferule in the "push in" connector and viola' no more air leak. Trimming the ends is a good step but you'll get better results with a new ferule / bushing or just replace the connector. Not difficult and not expensive. You will need to know the outside diameter (metric) in order to get the correct connector. Attached is a pic from a non specific vendor of similar connectors:
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...HoivrH1IkRR-WbzujNJi23ycGS9ieZODwuRoCmPLw_wcB
I've replaced them on other machines but have yet to have a problem with my Cassese.
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...HoivrH1IkRR-WbzujNJi23ycGS9ieZODwuRoCmPLw_wcB
I've replaced them on other machines but have yet to have a problem with my Cassese.
That seems like a lot to me for not having any leaks... ?
I can live with that. It used to come on every 15 minutes or so before I tightened everything up and replace all the fittings. And since my electric is included in my rent, I don't want to get crazy about it.
artfolio
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I started out with a Heinz-Teichert manual machine which I bought from Kosnars back in 1989. It was bulletproof in the best German traditions and served me well for around ten years until I replaced it with a Brevetti pneumatic. I sold it to a High School manual arts workshop and it is probably still joining frames there..
I switched to the pneumatic mainly because then I needed something a bit faster but the one thing I missed about the manual machine was the ability to use it as a clamp for repair work or to tame those corners which didn't want to close up neatly.
I switched to the pneumatic mainly because then I needed something a bit faster but the one thing I missed about the manual machine was the ability to use it as a clamp for repair work or to tame those corners which didn't want to close up neatly.
We can turn our compressors off on Saturday, come back Monday and the pressure is still up to the point the don't kick in on when tuned on, they do if left longer though.
Pnumatic is better for many reasons, I find this to be a major one, once you have the moulding in the Pinner you press the pedal or push the button how ever yours works and hey presto it's pinned, with a manual one you have to lift up you knee, your on one foot and you are moving, it's just not as stable, it all a bit of a balancing act, you can get very very good at it but it's a compromise.
Pnumatic is better for many reasons, I find this to be a major one, once you have the moulding in the Pinner you press the pedal or push the button how ever yours works and hey presto it's pinned, with a manual one you have to lift up you knee, your on one foot and you are moving, it's just not as stable, it all a bit of a balancing act, you can get very very good at it but it's a compromise.
FM Framer
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
I drain my piped air system when leaving on Sat.
The problem of pneumatic cylinders leaking air can be avoided by filtering and lubricating the compressed air that drives them. Untreated compressed air contains water to rust/corrode the metal parts, and particulate debris to abrade the polished surface of the moving rod. Also, the untreated air does not contain a proper pneumatic lubricant.
A pneumatic cylinder is a friction device vulnerable to wear, because it consists of a polished steel (usually) rod moving in a steel (usually) tube on synthetic rubber (usually) seals. Clean, dry, lubricated compressed air is essential to maintaining tight seals on the pneumatic cylinders. That can be easily accomplished by installing an air filter/lubricator on or near the machine, which will remove moisture and particulate debris, and a reservoir of proper lubricant injects a small amount of it into the input air with every use. Of course, a drop or two of lubricant can be squirted into the input port of the machine every couple of days, but that is an easy maintenance step to forget, and it does nothing about the water or debris in the lines.
An air filter/lubricator is easy to install and maintain on most underpinners, and some suppliers offer them as optional accessories. It would be an inexpensive device, compared to the cost of repairing/replacing pneumatic cylinders or an entire machine. However, installing such a device on the compressor would have limited benefit if any, because the compressed air would accumulate moisture and debris from just a few feet of hose or piping connecting the compressor and the tool.
A pneumatic cylinder is a friction device vulnerable to wear, because it consists of a polished steel (usually) rod moving in a steel (usually) tube on synthetic rubber (usually) seals. Clean, dry, lubricated compressed air is essential to maintaining tight seals on the pneumatic cylinders. That can be easily accomplished by installing an air filter/lubricator on or near the machine, which will remove moisture and particulate debris, and a reservoir of proper lubricant injects a small amount of it into the input air with every use. Of course, a drop or two of lubricant can be squirted into the input port of the machine every couple of days, but that is an easy maintenance step to forget, and it does nothing about the water or debris in the lines.
An air filter/lubricator is easy to install and maintain on most underpinners, and some suppliers offer them as optional accessories. It would be an inexpensive device, compared to the cost of repairing/replacing pneumatic cylinders or an entire machine. However, installing such a device on the compressor would have limited benefit if any, because the compressed air would accumulate moisture and debris from just a few feet of hose or piping connecting the compressor and the tool.
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Jim, I checked Larson-Juhl supply list and they have only filters that go on compressor. Can you recommend something
from what you described?
from what you described?
Actually it could be installed on v-nailers end too. Thank you.