Making your own bole

maximilianofmoro

Grumbler in Training
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Paris France
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Homemade Bole – Looking for Tips and Recipes


Hi everyone,


I'm a young restorer in Paris just starting to dive deeper into traditional gilding methods, and I'm really interested in making my own bole from scratch—using ground clay, gelatin or rabbit skin glue, and water. I’ve been experimenting with a few small batches, but I’m still trying to fine-tune the consistency and proportions, and would love to hear from others who have more experience with this.

Does anyone here regularly make their own bole? If so, I’d really appreciate any tips, insights, or recipes you'd be willing to share. Do you use any additives? What have you noticed in using different ingredients (Gelatin vs RSG, for instance)?

Any help would be hugely appreciated. I’m trying to build up a solid foundation in traditional materials and techniques, and hearing from people in the field would really help me learn.


Thanks so much in advance!
 
I thought that was the only way. There's premade bole? I'm no expert but here's the recipe that's served me well for better than 25 years now. I'll let you convert the ounces to milliliters and fahrenheit to celsius .

Your glue: 16 grams rabbet skin glue soaked in 6 ounces distilled water for 2 or 3 hours till the water is absorbed. Heat in a double boiler or container of hot water til dissolved. Be careful not to heat any hotter than 100f .

Clay wash: Add water to clay and mix to a creamy consistency with a good round mop brush. When the consistency is right you should be able to gently force 2 drops from a loaded brush. This is your clay wash.

The Bole: 1 part clay wash to 3 parts glue. Stir and strain through a nylon stocking 3 times. Your bole should be "blood warm" for use. Be sure to keep it under 100f.

Glue tends to be softer in hot, humid weather and harder in cold and dry (the climate where I live varies considerably from summer to winter). In general, the harder the gesso and softer the clay the brighter the burnish so I may adjust my glue amounts by up to 5% or so depending on the conditions at the time.
Hope that helps some. I'm sure others will post their thoughts and recipes soon.
 
Thanks Terry for your reply, I appreciate it! I like that you say you strain it three times. You see, I was only doing it once. Interesting! What I meant from my comment was that most people I know, and even most gilders I know use already prepared bole products then mix their binder into it. I'm looking to eventually have a clearly defined recipe that involves the basics, just the gram weight of bole in powder form, quantity of water and quantity of binder (and its strength, of course!). I think it's really nice to be able to have such precise control over what one uses and modify it to adjust to their own needs. Thanks again I love reading about this stuff.
 
No reason at all why you can't formulate your own bole. One restrictive result from using off the shelf boles is the lack of any variety of colours. Just the usual red, yellow, black and grey (if you're lucky). Sometimes the reds can be just a bit - too red and if you do a lot of restoration, then matching the bole colour to the original can be quite difficult.
If I was going to create my own bole, I'd be first contacting a specialist ceramic clay provider and selecting a fine pottery or china clay of the desired colour. I would also be thinking of adding a small quantity of graphite to create more of a polish.
It all about experimentation and seeing which clay performs best.

As regards the glue, it's important to use the best quality RSG.
Good RSG contains a balance of two proteins, one gelatin and one adhesive. Using gelatin alone means you miss out on the adhesive property which is essential for secure gilding.

Everyone has their own preferred method of preparing bole for gilding. One method I use is to first dilute the wet raw bole to a single cream consistency.
Now slowly stir in some warm RSG and watch how the mixture thickens up to a buttery consistency.
Keep adding more RSG until the bole returns to its original single cream and when that happens, add just a little bit more - for luck!
Too much RSG and the burnish will be dull. Too little RSG and the leaf will flake off.
Then add in some brandy to achieve the best brushing consistency.

Using a nylon stocking is a good idea for straining the wet bole, but if that gets a bit messy, you can buy fine disposable paint strainers which are a bit easier to use.
 
Max, The gilding bole used to be called Armenian Bole because it was originally extracted from Armenia in different colors. The color of the bole is very important, as it allows the gold leaf to take on subtle but necessary hues and shades. Many different countries have contributed significantly to the history of frames, each with its own sources of colored clay, which resulted in specific frame colors.

If you plan to restore frames or other gilded surfaces, the color of the clay is paramount to your work. The clay beneath Italian Renaissance frames was a luminous orange—no longer available today. Some may try to mix different clay colors, but modern sources tend to be too dark and even off-target. French frames typically feature a red clay applied over a yellow clay. The clay is colored in mass and sold in dry lumps or premixed mud. The wet clay does not contain RSG; it is simply mud.

Today's available colors are as follows:

  • WHITE (more like a light gray, off-white)
  • YELLOW (similar to a brownish ochre)
  • RED (closer to a sienna shade)
  • VENETIAN GREEN (quite pale)
  • BLUE (a light bluish-grayish tone)
In my youth, I worked with much more vibrant colors that were closer to their names. And now you want to prepare your own clay out of powdered ceramics mixed with graphite? Good luck!

Grasso can be burnished to a high degree. Even acrylic paint over gesso will work if you are not obsessed with perfection. Gilders' bole is slightly different from whiting (gesso), but technically, it is a thinned-down, colored gesso.

Why would you want to prepare your own bole starting with poor-quality clay? Essentially, you need bole for its consistent colors. It does not contribute to gesso’s ability to compress, which is essential for achieving a well-burnished surface.

Adding a bit of alcohol to gesso and bolus is not for aesthetic purposes. Alcohol breaks the surface tension in gilding water, resulting in clean gilding. In gesso, alcohol helps eliminate air bubbles and drives them to the surface. Trapped air bubbles in gesso are responsible for pinholes, which are a nuisance to repair.

Once a pinhole appears, it cannot be removed, no matter how many layers of gesso are applied, or how much you wet and rub the spot with your fingers. You must open the hole down to the bare wood, apply putty, and then gesso again. In my opinion, alcohol plays no role in preparing or painting bole.

Gilders make a big fuss (almost like voodoo) about their craft, discussing rigid, controlled recipes involving distilled water and precise temperatures (100°F, for example). But think about it for a moment—if gilding today requires all this precision, how was it done five or six centuries ago, during Cennino Cennini’s time?

In fact, gilding is very similar to cooking. A skilled cook creates exceptionally flavorful dishes simply by tasting and adjusting things accordingly. Those who insist on strict recipes would be lost when RSG, whiting, or clays change their formula.

In reality, whiting comes from Canada or England, whereas gilders in Louis XIV's era or Cennino Cennini's time had no access to modern material sources like we do today. You need to know what you are aiming for and test your results to get as close to that goal as possible.

For example, how well does gesso hold to the wood when sanding? How well does the clay burnish after painting a few layers on your finger and letting it dry? How easily can it be removed from your fingernail when rubbed with a bit of saliva?

See what I mean? RSG is not always of the same quality (nor are other materials). What you find in Paris is definitely different from what I can find in New York or Ottawa. If gilders were truly obsessed with formulas, they would become victims of their craft.

More importantly, you should develop your own formula and stick to it.

By the way, traditional gesso was made with animal glue, making it both permeable and soluble. Most modern gilders use acrylic gesso, which is neither permeable nor soluble. I have never heard a gilder complain about this huge shift in their craft.

I still use old-style gesso. Occasionally (very rarely), I hear stories about a talented dog or cat licking the finish off my frames if they were left unattended in an accessible place—because they can sense the animal glue, which smells like chocolate to them!

Those who use acrylic gesso never get such complaints from their customers. So, straying from tradition in a creative and intelligent way is not always a mistake.
 
Cornel, Very well said regarding what was done 500 years ago, vs todays micro-managing of the materials and measurements. Your analogy of cooking is spot on, even with baking I learned to watch a recipe as a guide and just go with the flow. An example is eggs, what size, medium, large, extra large, jumbo? Are we talking at sea level or at 6,000 ft elevation. What is the relative humidity of the dry ingredients... and so on.

As an example, in the past 4-5 years I have made gesso from the material I get from a commercial landscaping supplier. It is used as a ground PH conditioner and for sports fields markings (EX: lines on the fields). The last purchase was about $15.00 for a 50 pound bag. It is the same thing. Call it chalk, limestone, calcite, CaCO3, its all the same. There might be differences the grind size; however, I agree that the standards were not that exacting 500 years ago. Straining it as a wet flowing liquid in a sieve or cloth will remove all the big chunks.
 
Further to making your own bole. you can buy both Pipe clay and China clay, suitable for bole making, from Stuart Stevenson in the UK. They suggest colouring it with artist's pigments or watercolours.
I've never tried it but if you do, make sure to buy the purest dry pigments from an artist's suppliers as the earth pigments commonly sold by wood finishers are often mixed with quartz powders and other inert pigments. These have a larger particle size and will so give a much rougher finish.
 
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