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QuestionHow would you mount/frame this vintage poster?
Hi everyone -- I'm new to this forum...a non-pro, home collector/frame DIY-er...and am excited to hear what the experts would do with this poster:
Vintage poster, printed ~1958
24 3/8" x 39 1/4" (w x h)
Fine A condition, no folds, no wrinkles, no tears
NOT linen backed
Approximate value ~$1100
Would like to avoid putting a mat in front of the poster since image bleeds to edges
Was not considering linen backing due to it's pristine condition
How would you mount/frame this poster? My gut says:
Make sure the poster is flat
V-hinge poster to acid free mat/foam board (2 hinge at top)
Place under: UV Plexi, 1/2" spacer
Back with: Acid free foam board
Any thoughts on the hinge? Should I be concerned about the size/weight of the piece?
Would Lineco Self Adhesive Linen Tape be acceptable for mounting the poster to the mat board? Or would some form of conservation starch paste be preferred?
Filmoplast P90 or P90 Plus if the poster is on heavy paper would be better since it is closer to the weight and durability of the poster and is easier to remove in the future. Be sure to burnish it to fully activate the adhesive. You will be able to find a burnishing bone the same place that sells the Filmoplast products.
Filmoplast P90 or P90 Plus if the poster is on heavy paper would be better since it is closer to the weight and durability of the poster and is easier to remove in the future. Be sure to burnish it to fully activate the adhesive. You will be able to find a burnishing bone the same place that sells the Filmoplast products.
Thanks Jeff for your suggestion -- for a poster this size, would you recommend a specific type of hinge? e.g. pendulum through the mat board or standard V hinge, etc?
You can simply place a strip on the back of the poster extending beyond the top of your backing board. Now fold this to the backside and your adhesive will be face out. Cross over that extension with another strip of the Filmoplast in a horizontal orientation to the back side of the backing board to make a T-Hinge to the back. If you have some Filmoplast extending past the cross tape just fold it back up onto the horizontal attachment. I also use some Filmoplast to cross over the adhesive side of the piece attached to the art on the edge of the foam core so you have no adhesive grabbing the inside edge of the frame which allows the art and backing to expand and contract without any adhesive restriction.
Sang Lee - what did you end up doing, and how did it come out? I'm doing similar framing myself and trying to work out the best solution. Was it a thick paper poster, or super thin paper? Thanks.
Before using Filmoplast on any poster if value I would do some research. I am not an opponent of Filmoplast if properly used but I sure wouldn't use it on anything of value without doing some research and understanding the product. Search the archive for this thread "Why is Filmoplast Called the F Word?" That was a thread started here on the Grumble in August of 2008 and has some good information from framers, a manufacturer, and some conservators.
I ended up hinge mounting with Filmoplast 90 Plus as @Jeff Rodier suggested, from the back of the poster to an archival matboard that I cut down to exactly match the size of the poster. Then this matboard was adhered to a larger, archival foam board that matched the frame opening (with my desired "border" color) + one more backing board behind that for structure. I used spacers on the larger matboard to keep the poster away from the glaze...this proved to be the hardest part, since the poster kept being attracted to the glaze due to static. After adding a few more mounting points on the bottom edge of the poster with Filmoplast 90 Plus, and increasing the depth of the spacers, and removing the static on the arcrylic as much as possible, I was able to get the entire package together as such:
Glaze (Acrylite OP-3)
Spacers
Poster
Matboard (cut to match Poster)
Foam board
Backing board
I was trying to get by with 3 hinges at the top of the poster, but I had to add a few to the bottom edge to keep the poster flat. I'm sure there are more professional ways to flatten a poster, but being an home grumbler...my easiest option was to reverse-roll for a few days.
@Joe B's -- thanks for the additional info/perspective on Filmoplast -- all valuable info.
Thanks for the update, @Sang Lee . So you just bit the bullet and applied the P90 to the back of the poster. That's what I may end up doing with Lineco paper tape, at least on the very upper edge on top. I feel like messing with anything wet (gummed tape, paste) on a valuable poster may be a bad idea, and frankly it's doubtful the poster would ever be unframed, right? Even if sold at auction in the future.
I agree with you about using gummed tape, pre-adhesive tape, and most other tapes for any art/poster of value. As far as making up Mulberry hinges with rice paste, I will take my chances with that anytime because it is all natural and easily removed if necessary. Rice or wheat paste will last indefinitely whereas the other products may not.
If a customer entrust me with their art or an article of value, I will do my best to preserve it and to keep it undamaged so the value is maintained. Any one of us that do not have the necessary knowledge or are unwilling to properly protect the customers property shouldn't be doing that type of framing without the customer knowing exactly what they are getting. It doesn't matter if the poster will ever be unframed - that's not your choice to make and believe me, if a person is purchasing a poster or a piece of art of value it will be unframed for inspection. Do you really want to be held liable for damaging done to someones art? just saying Joe B
@Wantonsoup -- yes, the total amount of tape that is touching the actual poster is no more than 5 square cms in total...spread across 3 small points at the top and 2 on the bottom. For a $1000 poster, I'm okay with this...and was more concerned with getting it framed and hanging on our wall for everyone to enjoy...rather than spending more time/money with another mounting strategy that might leave *slightly* less residue when the next owner (my son maybe?) decides to reframe it after I'm dead I did spend more on the frame and the glaze to counter the more predictable/significant risks...moisture/sunlight damage. In short, I decided to pick my battles.
Yes, framing for yourself is one thing, framing for a customer is another. I was talking about framing for a customer which the majority of us framers do, but (there is always a but) , I try to use proper framing techniques no matter who I frame it for. A valuable piece of art, no matter if it is a original, print, or poster, is still something that is rare and hopefully will go up in value in the future, so, I do like to try to preserve it to the best of my ability.
I did spend more on the frame and the glaze to counter the more predictable/significant risks...moisture/sunlight damage. In short, I decided to pick my battles.
, I try to use proper framing techniques no matter who I frame it for. A valuable piece of art, no matter if it is a original, print, or poster, is still something that is rare and hopefully will go up in value in the future, so, I do like to try to preserve it to the best of my ability.