How To Reinforce Larger Shadow Box Frame

[framingfun12]

Hello!

First off, i wanted to say that this is an incredibly helpful community - thank you so much for your advice.

I'm an amateur framer - I frame my own artwork that I sell so I'm not the most experienced (but I'm pretty decent for an amateur as I've been complimented by professional framers ). I have some paper pieces i was hoping to float mount and frame in a 40x40 and 36x48 "shadow box" - The frames I use are douglas fir (yes, very soft ) and are two inches deep with a 1.5 inch rabbet. How would one go about reinforcing such a large frame? If I look at it from a artist's POV, I would put a wood brace in the middle using some t braces or brace brackets -- not sure if there is anything available for framers or a special method to employ to add something like this?

thank you all!

 

[wpfay]

Welcome to the G!
Simple solution is to screw a thin MDF, Masonite, or plywood (door skin) panel to the back of the frame.

 

[JFeig]

The second question that you should be asking is how to keep that frame and its contents on a wall to be displayed.
Items that large should not have horizontal wires for hanging. The best support for hanging will be with 2 designated points in the vertical rails that have hanging hardware securely attached with appropriate screws or use a "French cleat". Yes, in either option there will be 2 or more holes in the wall for hanging hardware.

 

[Rick Granick]

You could reinforce the frame with SuperCorner metal plates from 888 Mfg.

zinc plated steel corner angle

12 pack of Large Super Corner 4.25" x 4.25" x 6" Zinc Plated. Used to reinforce wood frame corners. Add Strength to your frames. Steel Has holes to accept 6 gauge pan head screws. Use our #8210 6 gauge pan head screws. Screws are not included

888mfgcorp.com

Another hanging option would be WallBuddies, which also reinforce the frame.

Large Wallbuddies for wood frames up to 30 lbs

For Large Wood Frames Up To 80lbs Adds extra strength to frame corners. Eliminates product liability problems, such as broken wires and bowed frames. Always keeps artwork level and flush to wall. Allows you to hang easier, faster, and professionally.

888mfgcorp.com

Rick

 

[Matthew Hale]

my preference would be to include a strainer with an integrated cleat. When properly constructed and joined to the frame, this does all the heavy lifting, relieving the stain on the molding. I use poplar 1x material a lot, and join it to the frame with pocket hole screws.

 

[David Waldmann]

I agree with Matthew, and this is the method I believe most professional framers would use - strainer with integrated French Cleat attached with pocket hole screws.

Another possible option is to attach screw eyes inside the back of the frame and use wire from one side to the other.

And as previously mentioned, especially with pieces this big and the moulding you are using, a 2-point hanging system is not neotiable. Wall Buddies would be a great option - reinforcing the frame as well as providing the proper hanging method.

 

[wpfay]

I initially read this request as an afterthought by the OP, but perhaps I was mistaken in that assumption.

I agree with the use of a strainer and either integrated French cleat or an add-on aluminum one.
The challenge is usually engineered prior to the determination of the frame depth, but in this case it can be retro-engineered, assuming the art can exist in a relatively shallow shadow box.
By subtracting the added thickness of the glazing, mount board, support board, and strainer you come up with the maximum depth of the shadow box (~5/8" by my reckoning). That's with off-the-rack 1X2 lumber from a home shelter supply, which is nominally 3/4" thick, single strength glass (1/16"), 4-ply rag board mount (1/16"), and 1/4" support board. If you require more space, custom milled strainer stock can be had from folks like David^, or, if you have the capability, you can mill it yourself.
Note: if you do use a thinner strainer, you might want to compensate a bit and make it a bit wider.

 

[Mdsales2002]

I initially read this request as an afterthought by the OP, but perhaps I was mistaken in that assumption.

I agree with the use of a strainer and either integrated French cleat or an add-on aluminum one.
The challenge is usually engineered prior to the determination of the frame depth, but in this case it can be retro-engineered, assuming the art can exist in a relatively shallow shadow box.
By subtracting the added thickness of the glazing, mount board, support board, and strainer you come up with the maximum depth of the shadow box (~5/8" by my reckoning). That's with off-the-rack 1X2 lumber from a home shelter supply, which is nominally 3/4" thick, single strength glass (1/16"), 4-ply rag board mount (1/16"), and 1/4" support board. If you require more space, custom milled strainer stock can be had from folks like David^, or, if you have the capability, you can mill it yourself.
Note: if you do use a thinner strainer, you might want to compensate a bit and make it a bit wider.

You need to be hired as a technical writer. I followed this to a "T", well said/written!

 

[David Waldmann]

(~5/8" by my reckoning). That's with off-the-rack 1X2 lumber from a home shelter supply, which is nominally 3/4" thick, single strength glass (1/16"), 4-ply rag board mount (1/16"), and 1/4" support board. If you require more space, custom milled strainer stock can be had from folks like David^, or, if you have the capability, you can mill it yourself.
Note: if you do use a thinner strainer, you might want to compensate a bit and make it a bit wider.

We have off-the shelf strainer material in 3/8 or 1/2 x 1-1/2" or 2" width, as well as 5/8x 1-1/2". Also 11/16 x 2 or 11/16 x 3 if that happens to fit in.