How to Reinforce an Old, Flimsy Frame?

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Ruby

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
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Sep 9, 2009
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I had been hoping the customer would be willing to replace the frame but no dice! The frame is 20"x17.5". The total width of the frame is 1/2" and the rabbet depth is 1/4". I can glue and nail the corners of the frame but additional measures will be needed because the customer wants Museum Glass and a double mat plus a back board for the photo that is being re-framed. One idea I had was that if a board of some sort were affixed to the back of the frame it could reinforce the frame and make the hanging hardware attachment more secure. Can anyone either help me to flesh out this idea with suggestion of materials and methods or does anyone have a different technique that has worked in a similar situation.

Thanks once again for your help!
Ruby :help:
 
This is an age-old framer's dilemma, isn't it? I usually decline these jobs and manage to talk the customer into a sturdier solution. Barring that, I will be very interested in the answers on this thread.

I once reframed a series of seven pieces that arrived in teeny tiny frames by using narrow Rhonda Feinman frames. Rhonda made the frames deeper to add structure and then we added a small strainer inside. But the face of the frame was still 1/2" and customer was happy. But then this customer was not afraid of cost. She just wanted the frames to be "thin." How often do we hear that?
 
If a customer is really just concerned about the frame because they have an emotional attachment to it, I can understand. If it is to keep costs down, I will explain to them that it will actually cost more than a new frame since I have to make this existing frame structurally sound.
I am not sure if you have enough space to add a strainer to the back?

Any chance of some photos, also of the back of the frame?
 
One possible solution would be to use fiberglass window screen. Back the entire frame with it by pulling taut and stapling to the back on all four sides after fitting. It is dimensional stable and would keep all four sides from bowing outward. You can then use dust cover paper over the entire back and sand off the paper and excess screen with a sanding block. I use Frank's Fabric Adhesive to apply my dust covers and it works well in the above process.

Fiberglass screen is very inexpensive and available at any hardware store or Big Box home center.

I frequently use strips of the screen to keep a frame from bowing when the moulding chosen has a propensity to bow.

As far as hangers... Could you use WallBuddies?
 
Another solution is to think as the frame as fascia - in that the frame, in and of itself will bear little to no weight and will only be "trim" on the framing package. The hanging hardware is not attached to the frame, but to the backing, which is also attached to the glazing. In fact, the glass, mats and backing could hang on their own with out the frame at all.

This is widely done in europe where they also use MDF as a backing board, but since your size is small, Coroplast or an 8 ply board (doesn't have to be rag) can be used. Use passepartout rings (here's some on sale at E-bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/98-PASSE-...HANGERS-HANGING-FRAMING-BRASSED-/321124142206 or you can make your own with D-rings and paper fasteners http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/909457/ACCO-Round-Head-Solid-Brass-Fasteners/. I secure the back edges of the fasteners with filament tape. Then, wire the back as you would normally.

You can use Lineco frame sealing tape to join the frame contents together and brad through the frame package to hold the frame to the contents as "trim" - or you could even use the Lineco tape to hold the whole thing together if the back of the frame is prepared properly (cleaned/sanded with old glue/dust cover removed.) http://www.lineco.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=360
 
Plan A: Fix a frame made from square timber to the back. This will extend the rabbet and provide the extra reinforcement.
Problem is that you have to find a bit that is just the right width and matches the finish. Difficult.
Plan B: Find a flat section with a bevel that is either the same width or a tad narrower. Cut so the bevel faces out and when it's hung you don't see the side so much and you can paint it black. I routinely use 1/4" thick sq timber to extend rabbets, but I this case it needs to be at least 3/8" to stabilise the wobbly frame properly. It's all a bit of a faff, but if that is what the customer wants......

Plan C: Use a very narrow but deep moulding inside the frame. Put the sandwich in this and drop the original frame over. The inner frame will protrude from the back, but this is good because there should be enough edge to use multipoints and screws to fix everything together. The inner frame will be visible, but you might be able to incorporate this into the design.

I would be a bit wary of fixing a wooden board to the back of the frame. While this will strengthen it you have to consider that it may expand and actually force the corners of the frame apart.
 
How about an inner frame of Nielsen profile #33 as the actual structure and hanging device holder, with the existing frame as "fascia" as Rob suggested.

:cool: Rick
 
Does the customer mind if you end of damaging the frame further, By using extra nails or staples
 
Could you attach metal "L" brackets to the corners on the back? If they were wider than the moulding you could make them flush with the sides, top and bottom, and use the over hang to hang from screws on the wall. I think somebody even makes hangers like that. They attach to the corners and have teeth on them. Anybody know what I'm talking about? Like sawtooth corner hangers.
 
Scallywag said:
CI think somebody even makes hangers like that. They attach to the corners and have teeth on them. Anybody know what I'm talking about? Like sawtooth corner hangers.
Click to expand...

WallBuddies, but they would be too big for a thin frame like this.
:cool: Rick

Quite honestly, a 1/2" wide frame was too thin for that size project even when it was new. If it is now old and the wood is dry and brittle, I would absolutely not use it if the frame itself would be "responsible" for its own structural integrity and safe hanging. I would only agree to use it if it serves as the decorative, not structural element- or, as Rob said, a fascia. I would also make sure the customer understands that using it is not a cost saving measure, and that it would probably be more cost effective to start with a new, appropriate frame.
 
20x17 is not that large. 1/8 foam, burnish edges at an angle, flex point, tape points, add atg around foam to help keep it all together. two hole super hangers with #4 screws. you could substitute 4-ply for the foam and cut it a little small to help get points in.
 
Ooops. Can't read. I thought it was 1-1/2". Disregard previous info. :o

What ya need is a square moulding. Maybe black, but it you can find one that blends with the finish, all the better. It should have a rabbet depth matching as near as possible the width of the back of the frame. Miter it on it's back so it makes a sort of inlay frame and drop the wobbly frame into it and either glue it or screw it in from the back. This will extend the rabbet and also strengthen the corners.
 
If a customer wants a skinny frame on a big picture my favourite solution is Nielsen's OEM1 profile. Plenty sturdy but with only around 6mm across the sight side. Even the OEM15 (half-round) is only 8mm or so. Compared with the faffing around trying to make something out of an old frame which has had its day it is a breeze and I would even discount it a bit to avoid the hassle.
 
The whole thing was original: late 18th century ancestor portrait (pastel on paper mounted on canvas), gilt wood liner, frame, and probably even the glazing. For a number of reasons (including the fragility of the original frame), the whole thing went into a very narrow floater frame. Worked a treat.
 
If you have never tried fiberglass screen, you should. Very simple solution to a common problem.
 
I can see how that would keep all four legs drawn toward the center, but if the wood is old and brittle as well as thin, it doesn't help the safe hanging issue. So often you see these frames that have already had several rounds of screw eyes over the years.
:icon9: Rick
 
The diddliest frame I ever had to deal with was about 3/8" wide and less than 1/4" across the back. The rabbet was less than 1/4" deep. Nice frame though - ornate pattern on the face. Somehow, someone had managed to shoe-horn a stretched embroidery into it. No mat, but the glass was painted on the reverse to form a circular mask. That was the problem, the glass was cracked. :help:
I didn't fancy doing a new reverse-painted glass so I did a black mat with gold reveal. Of course no way was the whole new sandwich going to go back in the frame. Found a bit of square plain ramin moulding and mitered it on it's back. Glued the original frame into that and stained to match.
Didn't alter the look a great deal, but it did make the whole thing very stable and extended the rabbet to around 5/8", which was more than adequate. I stained the ramin to blend in. It was quite small - maybe 10" square.
 
I looked at a WallBuddy and, if you use small screws and predrilled, it should work fine.

Selling a new frame is obviously the easiest solution, but that was not presented as an option.
 
Kirstie said:
This is an age-old framer's dilemma, isn't it? I usually decline these jobs and manage to talk the customer into a sturdier solution. Barring that, I will be very interested in the answers on this thread.

I once reframed a series of seven pieces that arrived in teeny tiny frames by using narrow Rhonda Feinman frames. Rhonda made the frames deeper to add structure and then we added a small strainer inside. But the face of the frame was still 1/2" and customer was happy. But then this customer was not afraid of cost. She just wanted the frames to be "thin." How often do we hear that?
Click to expand...
And metal frames never seem to be an option for these said customers!
 
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