How to hinge Denril paper

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framebinder

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I need to hinge a graphite portrait that's on Denril polymer paper. It's very translucent and, of course, the artist worked right to the edge of the paper. I experimented with filmoplast tape to see how the tape affected the color of the Denril and it was plainly visible. I do have some sekishu that pretty much matches the color of the Denril. Would wheat paste or Lineco's PVA stick? I believe the Denril would stay flat.
Thanks in advance.

John
 
Dendril is made from polypropylene:
www.bordenandriley.com/View/Denril-™-Cloth-Bound-Pads

According to the Wikipedia article on polypropylene:
"Many objects are made with polypropylene precisely because it is resilient and resistant to most solvents and glues. Also, there are very few glues available specifically for gluing PP. However, solid PP objects not subject to undue flexing can be satisfactorily joined with a two part epoxy glue or using hot-glue guns. Preparation is important and it is often helpful to roughen the surface with a file, emery paper or other abrasive material to provide better anchorage for the glue. Also it is recommended to clean with mineral spirits or similar alcohol prior to gluing to remove any oils or other contamination. Some experimentation may be required. There are also some industrial glues available for PP, but these can be difficult to find, especially in a retail store."

AMIEN says:
http://www.amien.org/forums/showthread.php?3149-Best-ways-to-mount-vellum
 
I'm not sure how well Denril would react to heat. Can you get a blank sheet from him so you can experiment?

It's too bad the artist didn't allow a border. If he had, you'd be able to over mat and use edge strips to support the paper.
 
Is Denril the same as Yupo paper? If it is, I dont think it takes heat well at all.
 
He's sending me a sample to work with. He says he'll work with a larger paper in the future. The way he works, it takes him months to create 1 piece, so doing it over is not an option. He also uses oil paint on this stuff. It does seem similar to Yupo which in the past I had an artist use and she put grommets in the corners and then we floated the art with screws and nuts painted white.
Kinda kinky! I worry that even if dry mounting works, that on a larger piece that I could get tunneling if I use rag board from expansion and contraction. Maybe aluminum plate would work better.
 
nikfrz said:
Is Denril the same as Yupo paper? If it is, I dont think it takes heat well at all.
Click to expand...

Just an FYI...Yupo tolerates heat just fine like polyester encapsulate and Tyvek, but doesn't stick to all adhesives. Gilman MountCor line bonds at 130F in 30 seconds (mechanical press) and loves all synthetics materials. But it is foam center board.
Chris Paschke
 
DesignsInk said:
Just an FYI...Yupo tolerates heat just fine like polyester encapsulate and Tyvek, but doesn't stick to all adhesives. Gilman MountCor line bonds at 130F in 30 seconds (mechanical press) and loves all synthetics materials. But it is foam center board.
Chris Paschke
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. How about fusion 4000. It's color would work well with the color of Denril, which is milky translucent.
 
Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. Also known as delrin. I have used it on Harpsichords where they last for 50 years +.
It might dissolve (a little by using methylene chloride, available at plastic suppliers) this is one way acrylics are bonded (not glued), but it's worth a try. Most plastics disolve a little with this . Wear safety glasses, but don't splash them, they're acrylic too. Nylons are usually resistant to almost everything. It occurs to me someone may have mis-named it to the artist.
 
Presto said:
Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. Also known as delrin.
Click to expand...

Irrelevant. Delrin (Polyoxymethylene) is NOT the same as Denril (Polypropylene). Sometimes switching two letters around can make all the difference

(and sometimes it doesn't; independent farmers and independent framers have roughly equal business prospects :) )
 
[ight dissolve (a little by using methylene chloride, available at plastic suppliers) this is one way acrylics are bonded (not glued), but it's worth a try. Most plastics dissolve a little with this .

I received a sample from the artist and I'm going to try the methylene acetate idea to hinge it at the top. Works with plexi after all.
 
framebinder said:
Thanks for the input. How about fusion 4000. It's color would work well with the color of Denril, which is milky translucent.
Click to expand...

Not sure if fusion will work with it. It needs to be mounted at F190 to fully melt. The F170 they say it melts at was for the previous formula, not their current one. Higher the temp to more likely it is to change the paper. Plus it may hold it. I still lean toward MountCor. Low temperature F130 and loves synthetic materials.
Chris Paschke
 
DesignsInk said:
Not sure if fusion will work with it. It needs to be mounted at F190 to fully melt. The F170 they say it melts at was for the previous formula, not their current one. Higher the temp to more likely it is to change the paper. Plus it may hold it. I still lean toward MountCor. Low temperature F130 and loves synthetic materials.
Chris Paschke
Click to expand...

I was afraid you'd say that. Mountcor is not going to make him happy being a foam core product. Now he's asking if I could mount the denril on to plexi or similar.
 
framebinder said:
I was afraid you'd say that. Mountcor is not going to make him happy being a foam core product. Now he's asking if I could mount the denril on to plexi or similar.
Click to expand...

Plexi might be good. Do it like a Cibachrome. Score the backing paper of the plexi to the size of the art. JERK the square of backing paper off, creating a static charge on the plexi. If the framing gods are good to you, the Denril will stick to the plexi by static action, and the edge of the remaining backing paper will act as a tiny sink mat/shelf to help support the art.
 
I used both fusion and rag mount at about 190 degrees and the with fusion I could peel off the denril.
The rag mount stuck with tenacity. I called the artist and we agreed to hinge the piece with rag mount.
The rag mount also didn't change the color of the poly and it didn't distort. He's going to bring by blank sheets of the stuff for mounting for future efforts. Amen.
 
EllenAtHowards said:
Plexi might be good. Do it like a Cibachrome. Score the backing paper of the plexi to the size of the art. JERK the square of backing paper off, creating a static charge on the plexi. If the framing gods are good to you, the Denril will stick to the plexi by static action, and the edge of the remaining backing paper will act as a tiny sink mat/shelf to help support the art.
Click to expand...

I'll try that and get back to you.
 
Plexi might be good. Do it like a Cibachrome. Score the backing paper of the plexi to the size of the art. JERK the square of backing paper off, creating a static charge on the plexi. If the framing gods are good to you, the Denril will stick to the plexi by static action, and the edge of the remaining backing paper will act as a tiny sink mat/shelf to help support the art.

framebinder said:
I'll try that and get back to you.
Click to expand...

That didn't work but it does mount nicely with rag mount on plexiglass at 180 degrees.
 
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