How To Attach Spacers to Frame

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framingfun12

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Hi!

I am an artist that does my own framing so looking for advice on spacers for float mounting.

I float mount a lot of my work on paper - I typically use the plastic spacers that come with the sticky side to attach it to the front of the frame/glazing. I need a bigger size spacer for some projects that only come in wood but i don't believe there is any kind of adhesive on these. This might be a silly question but how would one attach this to the frame?

Appreciate the help!
 
Welcome to the G, Framingfun12.
Basically the same, but if there might be a need to remove the shims, I used small spaced dots of the PVA glue between the dabs of ATG so I can pop the shims out without risking breaking them.
 
To clarify, when using wood spacers, drop the glass in and then adhere the spacers to the inner walls of the frame rather than the glass using pva/atg as mentioned. You can also make spacers out of 1/8 foamcore and colored matboard strips--a common shadowboxing technique.
 
I sometimes use a small 'cushion' shaped moulding to form an inner frame that serves as a spacer.
The mounted art/back goes in this frame and the glass sits on top. I then seal the glass to the spacer
with tape. You then have an homogenous unit that can be handled easily without flumbs getting in.
If the spacer protrudes past the back of the main frame then Multipoints shot in the perimeter of the main
frame and fixed with small screws is my preferred method. Easily reversible.

For deeper spacing a good way that looks quite classy is to employ the old-school 'box' moulding. It's like
a figure 4. This gives a nice sloped side and has a rabbet. It's available in various sizes here in the UK but all
in plain wood. But you can easily get it milled up without big tooling charges. Simple enough to put a finish
on it or face it with matboard/fabric. 🙂

products-M0084B.jpg
 
Prospero said:
I sometimes use a small 'cushion' shaped moulding to form an inner frame that serves as a spacer.
The mounted art/back goes in this frame and the glass sits on top. I then seal the glass to the spacer
with tape. You then have an homogenous unit that can be handled easily without flumbs getting in.
If the spacer protrudes past the back of the main frame then Multipoints shot in the perimeter of the main
frame and fixed with small screws is my preferred method. Easily reversible.

For deeper spacing a good way that looks quite classy is to employ the old-school 'box' moulding. It's like
a figure 4. This gives a nice sloped side and has a rabbet. It's available in various sizes here in the UK but all
in plain wood. But you can easily get it milled up without big tooling charges. Simple enough to put a finish
on it or face it with matboard/fabric. 🙂

View attachment 46250
Click to expand...
That kind of moulding is available in unfinished basswood from Foster Planing Mill here in the colonies.
 
Mary Beth van der Horst said:
To clarify, when using wood spacers, drop the glass in and then adhere the spacers to the inner walls of the frame rather than the glass using pva/atg as mentioned. You can also make spacers out of 1/8 foamcore and colored matboard strips--a common shadowboxing technique.
Click to expand...
Using foamcore and a colored/fabric mat is generally my go-to for a taller spacer/buildout. For larger projects I use 3m 969 atg for its tougher adhesive, along with PVA glue.
 
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