hinging, edge strip, tape alternative

[Randall C Colvin]

I've always used edge strips rather than paste/paper hinging when framing prints worthy of the extra effort. However, the edge strips have an adhesive base that is often much thicker than the print itself which can allow a visible separation between the print and mat. I recently made an edge strip of sorts out of 80 lb rag paper cut into 1 1/2" or 2" width by whatever length needed and folded lengthwise. These edge strips or gutters are attached to the sub with PVA/or ATG(burnished for more complete adhesion) and the print rests in the folds on all 4 sides. It seems to give better support than corner pockets with no adhesive contacting the print. Any comments on this method would be welcome.

 

[Jeff Rodier]

The folded paper has been used for many years and the mylar strips became a commercially produced item for those that wanted an easy to use solution. Glue is the way to go with these so if the ATG were to release the print would slip down and rest against the ATG residue on the backing board.

 

[FramerDave]

The folded paper has been used for many years and the mylar strips became a commercially produced item for those that wanted an easy to use solution. Glue is the way to go with these so [STRIKE]if[/STRIKE] when the ATG [STRIKE]were to[/STRIKE] releases the print [STRIKE]would[/STRIKE] will slip down and rest against the ATG residue on the backing board.

It would be much better to use a strong double-sided adhesive with a carrier, such as 3M 889, for this purpose. The right glue like a PVA or starch paste would work nicely, but then you lose a lot of the speed and convenience.

Jim Miller's Mylar book shows a couple variations on this method, and Hugh Phibbs has an article about a similar method in the PFM online archives, titled Evolved Edge Strips.

Just keep an eye on the weight of the paper and its size. The paper needs to be able to support its own weight without slumping in the frame for an edge mount to be a good choice.

 

[Jim Miller]

Edge supports are quick, easy, effective, and often a good alternative to starch hinging or other direct-adhesive attachments.

Clear film edge supports are OK for items that would not be debossed by the sharp-cut edges of the plastic, but for preservation mounting, the best material would be alpha cellulose tissue paper for full-length edge supports. It does not need to be heavy paper, as there is very little stress imposed on the mounts.

Attach the edge supports to the alpha cellulose substrate by starch paste or, for general use on jobs requiring only moderate preservation, use 3M #889 or 3M #415 double sided tape strips. Acrylic medium, Lascaux 360, or prepared wet paste would be OK, as well. As others have mentioned, ATG would be a poor choice in any case.

 

[Jeff Rodier]

It would be much better to use a strong double-sided adhesive with a carrier, such as 3M 889, for this purpose. The right glue like a PVA or starch paste would work nicely, but then you lose a lot of the speed and convenience.

The speed and convenience issue is the reason why they became produced commercially.

 

[Rick Granick]

...the best material would be alpha cellulose tissue paper for full-length edge supports. It does not need to be heavy paper, as there is very little stress imposed on the mounts.

Attach the edge supports to the alpha cellulose substrate by starch paste or, for general use on jobs requiring only moderate preservation, use 3M #889 or 3M #415 double sided tape strips. Acrylic medium, Lascaux 360, or prepared wet paste would be OK, as well. As others have mentioned, ATG would be a poor choice in any case.

If using acrylic medium, could these be prepared in advance in bulk, and then applied using a tacking iron to reactivate the medium for bonding?
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick

 

[FramerDave]

The speed and convenience issue is the reason why they became produced commercially.

Yeah.

The method shown in Jim's book shows how long strips can be prepared in advance and then cut quickly to size as needed. It could be done with a clear film or paper and 3M 889.

Maybe five minutes work a week and you have a very good mounting material that's much more cost-effective than the commercial stuff.

 

[Jeff Rodier]

In the early 80's we used to make up about 500' at a time so it would be around when we needed it.

 

[Jim Miller]

If using acrylic medium, could these be prepared in advance in bulk, and then applied using a tacking iron to reactivate the medium for bonding?
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick

Yes, Rick. That would work with paper, but the acrylic medium does not stick to polyester film very well. If you want to heat-activate a pre-applied adhesive on clear film, try using Lascaux 360.