Hinged Frame

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Paul N

Paul N

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Posts
17,354
Loc
CT, not far from the LI Sound
I had a customer come in today and ask to frame a piece that should be about 44 v x 32 w (finished size), double mat, 2 inch wide Maple frame, UV or Plexi (not sure yet), and she wants this to hang on wall, so it may cover a wall-safe.

And, she wants this piece to be hinged on one side so she'd able to open the safe (daily occurrence).

I didn't get to ask her what kind of wall (she had to run out to pickup her son).

Anybody ever did something like that?? Andy ideas, suggestions??

I got some great answers in chat-room, but I thought I'd pester you here as well with those questions and maybe get more good ideas to throw at her....;)

PS: I did offer a Z-Bar based solution but she wants it hinged.

Of course if the wall may not support the hinged frame idea then it will be Z-Bars (or a different framer). But let's assume the wall can handle it.
 
...and since she has a wall safe, you know she can afford to pay the appropriately high price you will charge for this very special job. Don't give away your extra labor time.
:cool: Rick
 
Geeze Paul, you didn't tell us that it was that big! Regular miter joints will probably fail within a years time if this is used on a daily basis. The frame needs to be as solid as a heavy cabinet door frame, and regular miter joints won't cut it. Mortise and tenon, half lap, or angle bridle joint. If you are insistent on a miter, have the frame joined with biscuits, or route out the back of the frame and install angle irons, or both.
I would also insist on a subframe to mount to the wall. That way you could be sure that the hinge has solid support on both sides.
 
Thanks for the additional advice Wally!

Actually, this frame (AMCI) is biscuit-joined. But I was going to enforce it as well with angle iron.

And I definitely like your idea of a sub-frame, as we discussed yesterday.
 
Paul, I would also suggest a full-length piano hinge. Wally makes a good point about frequent motion affecting the rigidity of the frame. In addition to making the corners more secure than usual, a deep-rabbet moulding, and perhaps assemble a sturdy stack of some width, would result in a more-rigid frame.

If your customer wants the full-length side hinge to be completely hidden, you could recess it behind the frame and into the wall. That is, build a frame to recess into the wall, so that it must be pulled out a couple of inches on drawer slides before the hinge is flexed. And when it is closed, the hinge would be pushed into the wall behind the frame, and completely out of sight.
 
If space allows, use Accuride full extension drawer slides, like you see on kitchen cabinet drawers. Use one on the top of frame and one on bottom. Slide can handle anything from 50 to 150 lbs and the frame is supported from both top and bottom. Whole frame then slides over to reveal the safe. Done this sort of framing for a local hospital to cover the oxygen/suction station in patient's room. Can't see what's behind the picture but easy to get to if needed.
 
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