Question Hinge Floating Large Print

[josephscarry]

I'm float mounting a larger print (30" x 40") onto mat board. Typically for this kind of simple float, I'd cut a reverse bevel, hinge tape to the piece, and slide the tape hinges through the slot and secure them to the back of the board. In this case, the mat is too big for my mat cutter. My question is, will a cut just done with a straight edge work just as well to slide tape through and be secure? Or are there other methods to float mount I should be aware of and using. The print itself is rather heavy on BFK Rives I can't have it slipping. Thanks for your time and thoughts!

 

[JFeig]

I always use a straight cut for pass through hinges. I have a dental spatula that I use to open this cut a bit (less than 1mm). After the hinge is passed through the hole I burnish the connection to close the gap in the cut.

 

[David Hewitt]

Just a thought. Mount print to 8 ply. Cut the 8ply 28x38, to prevent seeing the mount board when viewed from the sides. Lay the board on the backside of print and mark hinge locations, top, sides, bottom. (sides and bottom prevent damage to print if frame package were to ever be lifted sideways or upside down ) Install hinges to print, wrap to back of mount board and secure. Leave slack in all hinges, but let top hinges rest on mount board using natural gravity. Lay mounted print on mat board, mark location ( with post-its ) Remove mount, apply white glue to backside using a dot pattern ( Dots allow for easy removal ) now lay mount within marked locations on the mat board. With the glue being wet, you can make final location adjustments. Do not apply too much pressure as the glue dots will expand making removal more difficult.
IMO this is faster and easier, plus the separation of print from mat gives more depth.

 

[Jim Miller]

David's suggestion would be my method, too. However, my undersize backer probably would be 4-ply Museum or Conservation matboard. Once attached to the reinforced background substrate by tiny dots of acid-free PVA or acrylic gel, the assembly should be sturdy and stable.

Hinges would be hand-torn Japanese paper, adhesive would be freshly-cooked starch paste, methyl cellulose paste, or Klucel G. Also, I would suggest lightly sanding the square-cut edges of the undersize backing board to soften the sharp edges in the areas where the hand-torn hinges would be folded over to the back.

One more thought...be sure to use a generous spacer under your glazing. For that size, I'd suggest 1/2" for glass, due to possible deflection of the art paper in normal expansion/contraction cycles. Or 1" for acrylic, because the plastic sheet's static charge would tend to attract the art paper's center section.

 

[Matthew Hale]

Just a thought. Mount print to 8 ply. Cut the 8ply 28x38, to prevent seeing the mount board when viewed from the sides. Lay the board on the backside of print and mark hinge locations, top, sides, bottom. (sides and bottom prevent damage to print if frame package were to ever be lifted sideways or upside down ) Install hinges to print, wrap to back of mount board and secure. Leave slack in all hinges, but let top hinges rest on mount board using natural gravity. Lay mounted print on mat board, mark location ( with post-its ) Remove mount, apply white glue to backside using a dot pattern ( Dots allow for easy removal ) now lay mount within marked locations on the mat board. With the glue being wet, you can make final location adjustments. Do not apply too much pressure as the glue dots will expand making removal more difficult.
IMO this is faster and easier, plus the separation of print from mat gives more depth.

we call that a pedestal mount here; it's my go-to method for floating stuff. it makes positioning a breeze, and is less hassle than pass-thru hinges (imho)

 

[Shayla]

we call that a pedestal mount here; it's my go-to method for floating stuff. it makes positioning a breeze, and is less hassle than pass-thru hinges (imho)

Same here. We make the backing mat at least 1" larger on each side than the final, and trim it to size after having attached the pedestal to which the art is hinged. So nice not to have to fiddle with lining up the art just so at the beginning.

 

[josephscarry]

Thank you all. Appreciate the solid help!

 

[wpfay]

For float mounts that are to be flat on the mount I do bevel cut my pass though hinges, but by hand with a Olfa click knife. I attach the hinges just 1/4" from the edge, position the art on the backing and lifting the edge of the art by the hinge, mark the backing just under the edge for entry and exit points. I use an artist's palate knife to open up the cut a bit so I can feed the hinges through. In a pinch, I'll use a folded piece of Tyvek to aid in pulling the hinges through.

 

[Echobelly]

Just a thought. Mount print to 8 ply. Cut the 8ply 28x38, to prevent seeing the mount board when viewed from the sides. Lay the board on the backside of print and mark hinge locations, top, sides, bottom. (sides and bottom prevent damage to print if frame package were to ever be lifted sideways or upside down ) Install hinges to print, wrap to back of mount board and secure. Leave slack in all hinges, but let top hinges rest on mount board using natural gravity. Lay mounted print on mat board, mark location ( with post-its ) Remove mount, apply white glue to backside using a dot pattern ( Dots allow for easy removal ) now lay mount within marked locations on the mat board. With the glue being wet, you can make final location adjustments. Do not apply too much pressure as the glue dots will expand making removal more difficult.
IMO this is faster and easier, plus the separation of print from mat gives more depth.

We just did this to a set of 4 Warhol Marilyn silkscreens. The art restorer had us cut 8ply an inch smaller than the prints, he attached strips of mulberry paper all along each edge, then wrapped them around the back of the 8ply. I just had to glue that to the backing board. No worries about those prints ever shifting.