Question Glue for Poly Frames

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neilframer

neilframer

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I have 2 Poly frames to re-join. All 8 corners are broken and the frame material on the inside almost resembles very hard, black gator board.
I don't sell Poly frames, but I have worked with them in the past.
I am looking for a brand of glue that I could buy at the hardware store, just an ounce or two.
Would something like Loctite gel superglue work? I don't want to buy a pint of something that will sit around and dry out and not get used.
I know not to get it on the finish.
Any suggestions are appreciated. :kaffeetrinker_2:
 
neilframer said:
I am looking for a brand of glue that I could buy at the hardware store, just an ounce or two.
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That's how it always starts but this stuff is just a gateway glue. Before you know it you'll be using the hard stuff and buying it by the kilo. :shutup:
 
Jeff Rodier said:
That's how it always starts but this stuff is just a gateway glue. Before you know it you'll be using the hard stuff and buying it by the kilo. :shutup:
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As long as I don't mainline it, I think I'll be OK. :icon9:
 
I've rebuilt heavily damaged plastic frames using nothing but that yellow ABS glue that plumbers use on waste pipe. $3 or $4 for a small can. When they get rebuilt, they have to be reinforced, so take care.
 
Jeff Rodier said:
You can always use a plumbers torch to make a closed corner frame. :shutup:
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Jeff, Jeph, Geoff: you are incorrigible, mon ami!

The correct tool is a soldering iron.
 
tedh said:
I've rebuilt heavily damaged plastic frames using nothing but that yellow ABS glue that plumbers use on waste pipe. $3 or $4 for a small can. When they get rebuilt, they have to be reinforced, so take care.
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Thanks again. I'm going to cut a little off of each corner to get a fresh surface. They were vnailed but the vnails took chunks out of the corners (happens every time with the Poly frames).
These frames were done in Jordan and were smashed on the way over here.
The "artwork", carpy nude prints, were damaged by the broken glass.
I'm touching up the prints also. :shrug:


Jeff Rodier said:
You can always use a plumbers torch to make a closed corner frame. :shutup:
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I would like to take a torch to the frame and the art but I got the money up front. :icon11:
 
I would be very careful of Gorilla Glue - it bubbles out like crazy when it cures and any on the front will destroy the surface. Plus it is a one use bottle - once it is open the whole bottle is wasted. Rock hard.

Can you tell I hate this stuff?

My vote would go to the plumber's PVC adhesive.
 
neilframer said:
I would like to take a torch to the frame and the art but I got the money up front. :icon11:
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Plastic is nasty, fer shur, and there's lots of carpy art out thar. But.....it sells. Just like TK's, it sells.
 
Framar said:
I would be very careful of Gorilla Glue - it bubbles out like crazy when it cures and any on the front will destroy the surface. Plus it is a one use bottle - once it is open the whole bottle is wasted. Rock hard.

Can you tell I hate this stuff?

My vote would go to the plumber's PVC adhesive.
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tedh said:
Plastic is nasty, fer shur, and there's lots of carpy art out thar. But.....it sells. Just like TK's, it sells.
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I hear you, and thank you! :cool:
 
Sent two large TK's out the door today. Put some Artglass on them so the images will be unobstructed. That'll provide generations of enjoyment. :thumbsup:
 
Framing carpy art is a lot like working for a carpy boss.
It pays the bills and you don't have to go home and live with it (him/her). :beer:
 
i just recently experimented with a bunch of glues trying to repair just this type of frame. I found that gorilla glue didn't quite do the trick, once i got passed the point where it expanded out of the frame i had problems were chucks of the corner would just break out where the gorilla glued seeped into. The other glues i tried were crazy glue, which didn't work (big surprise). PVC glue which melted the frame. Zap-a-Gap which broke out in chucks on a stress test. The winner ended up being much to my surprise was regular old corner weld white glue, but only after letting it full dry in clamps. survived underpinning, stress test and assembly.
 
I've done what your doing.

I would not join any poly frame without a solid backer screwed or stapled around the perimeter for strength.

1/8 hardboard is cheap.

Then your not relying so much on the glue.

Doug
 
I hate those frames. I refuse to take orders with them. I've had too much trouble with them in the past. Exactly the ones you're having with Neil. I'll cut a mat for the customer but inform them that they'll be the ones doing the actual fitting. I had two frames completely fall apart the moment I had to work with it. Nope, no more. Nevah!
 
Isn't airplane glue what we used to use? I get mine from my local acrylic supplier and it's what they use to construct plexi boxes. It comes in a tube which is basically white with red on it.

There. Isn't that helpful? Sorry, can't remember the name and I'm not home.

Cathie
 
So once again I disagree with the enemies of plastic. Maybe because the Uniko moldings are devoid of air bubbles, unlike those carpy emafyl? or whatever, that were all airy foam. The new ones are heavy, dense, and really workable.

If you still are using the older ones, my sympathy. Re the glues: has anyone tried the yellow ABS glues? Perfection so far, unless there's ooze-out on the top surface.

And, as far as profitability, the plastics generate more profit than any other. Forum rules prevent me from discussing margins, but boy, are they good. With a non-melt blade, and no warping or twisting, and starting from a very low cost-per-foot, these rock!
 
I have had luck in the past in this situation using a 2 part epoxy, comes with a resin and a hardener. The brand I have is loctite. Really strong. I didnt see this posted yet, and I dont know if its the right glue for the job, but when I use it works really well.
 
Thanks, everyone for checking in with your advice and opinions. :thumbsup:
 
The adhesive generally recommended for polystyrene mouldings is cyanoacrylate, aka Super Glue, aka CA.

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane, extemely strong, and it will bond to a wide variety of surfaces. It will always foam during curing and, when exposed to moisture, it will foam more, which makes it unpredictable and risky for joining miters.
 
Jim Miller said:
The adhesive generally recommended for polystyrene mouldings is cyanoacrylate, aka Super Glue, aka CA.

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane, extemely strong, and it will bond to a wide variety of surfaces. It will always foam during curing and, when exposed to moisture, it will foam more, which makes it unpredictable and risky for joining miters.
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Jim: what is your source? My sources, Frameguild, once Canada's largest distributor, and Uniko, a manufacturer, both recommend ABS. As well, Uniko told me that their largest customer in Toronto uses a mixture of acetone and frame dust. This customer makes thousands of frames a month.
 
Acetone and frame dust? Why? I hope their shop is well-ventilated, since acetone emits harmful vapors.

I guess one could join plastic frame miters any sort of chemical concoction that would melt the plastic in a controlled manner. All cyanoacrylate glues would work, as would the glues available to bond PVC pipe fittings together. All of those adhesives are readily available at competitive prices from tretail stores. There is nothing special about them, and I can't think of any reason to make the adhesive selection more complicated than necessary.
 
Labour laws up here are very restrictive, so they must be doing it right. When I take delivery of my paltry seven or eight boxes, the trailer is jammed full of plastic heading to Toronto. There's a framing factory that must be framing cheap prints for all of North America. The glue they use must be effective.

The ABS I use is made by Oatey in Cleveland, and contains acetone, ABS resin, and MEK. The reason I use it is because it is cheap and effective. $5 for a half-liter can that lasts for an awful lot of frames.
 
WHO IS TK?

TK is a world-famous artist who is reknowned for flaming cottages, and the inclusion of every art-world cliche that was ever invented: thatched roofs, mountain streams, purple skies, grazing geese, puffy clouds, verdant forests, and white picket fences.

He is unsurpassed for his depiction of typical Americana.

I'm being kind.
 
I agree with Jim. Cyanoacrylite, a.k. superglue is tops but will destroy the surface finish so it must be applied carefully to avoid any squeezing out when the clamps go on.

Recently I have been using "Acryfix" which is used to stick acrylic for display boxes, fish tanks etc. It is a little runnier than I am used to but holds really well and, bonus, if you wipe it away quickly enough you can get away with a little surface contact. This describes itself as "Methyl Methacrylate".

For all these adhesives I avoid any skin contact by squeezing a bead onto the molding then spreading it with a sliver of matt card. If the stuff gets onto your fingers you will end up with your fingerprints preserved for posterity on the moulding.

Both glues should be stored in the fridge, preferably in a tight bag or sealed box because the smell will taint food.
 
Jim Miller said:
The adhesive generally recommended for polystyrene mouldings is cyanoacrylate, aka Super Glue, aka CA.

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane, extemely strong, and it will bond to a wide variety of surfaces. It will always foam during curing and, when exposed to moisture, it will foam more, which makes it unpredictable and risky for joining miters.
Click to expand...
When I was a framer, back a few years ago, I sold poly mouldings occasionally and used what Jim said. Cyanoacrylate!
Tried other glues, but none were as successful.
 
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