Hello, I am framing a 1000 piece puzzle 20 x 30 to the silver ikea frame, but when I fold the frame, the glass/sheet comes out of the frame. How can I secure the sheet within the frame and also I have 4 small screws that came with it, what do I use it for? Any suggestion/tips
Question Framing Puzzle with Ikea frame - border comes off
- Thread starter mkashyap
- Start date
Mkashyap,
Could you share a picture of this frame, or a link to the specific frame?
It sounds like your questions relate to this specific frame, or I am misunderstanding the question.
Most frames do not fold. You may be referring to flexible points (flat nails), and that may be causing too much pressure with a thick puzzle.
The 4 screws may be to attach a wire or brackets to attach a wire.
Please share more information on this frame, so that we can help.
Brian
Could you share a picture of this frame, or a link to the specific frame?
It sounds like your questions relate to this specific frame, or I am misunderstanding the question.
Most frames do not fold. You may be referring to flexible points (flat nails), and that may be causing too much pressure with a thick puzzle.
The 4 screws may be to attach a wire or brackets to attach a wire.
Please share more information on this frame, so that we can help.
Brian
I refuse to use Ikea frames. They are a P.O.S. (and I don't mean "Point Of Sale").
Rick
Rick
Nikodeumus
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Sometimes DIY projects turn out to be a bit more difficult than is assumed.
Most "factory frames" are engineered to only allow for adding thin items to display, such as; photos, posters, art on paper, etc.
Sometimes you can get away with an additional 4ply matt (or two if you're lucky).
Anything beyond that usually requires some degree of alteration to the mechanics of how the frame is assembled, to keep the package closed.
Basically, you are trying to "squish" too much material into a frame that was not designed for that.
When you say "glass/sheet is coming out", do you mean that material is a thin clear flexible acrylic film which is being "warped" and being forced out the front of the frame?
If that is the case, then you will need to alter the attachment from the rear to not exert force on the flimsy acrylic sheet.
If flexible points are being used, you can try to bend them to allow for the extra thickness of the puzzle.
Without seeing the back of the frame to show how it is engineered it is difficult to offer much advice.
You may need the assistance of a framer to close this frame package up properly.
It may be as simple as having a framer replace the flexible points to a new position.
Or, you may need to replace the back (or glass), using suitable materials and tools that only a framer has.
Some framers refuse to work with "factory frames" because of these extra headaches.
I can only assume the screws are intended to be used for attaching a hanger of some sort?
Most "factory frames" are engineered to only allow for adding thin items to display, such as; photos, posters, art on paper, etc.
Sometimes you can get away with an additional 4ply matt (or two if you're lucky).
Anything beyond that usually requires some degree of alteration to the mechanics of how the frame is assembled, to keep the package closed.
Basically, you are trying to "squish" too much material into a frame that was not designed for that.
When you say "glass/sheet is coming out", do you mean that material is a thin clear flexible acrylic film which is being "warped" and being forced out the front of the frame?
If that is the case, then you will need to alter the attachment from the rear to not exert force on the flimsy acrylic sheet.
If flexible points are being used, you can try to bend them to allow for the extra thickness of the puzzle.
Without seeing the back of the frame to show how it is engineered it is difficult to offer much advice.
You may need the assistance of a framer to close this frame package up properly.
It may be as simple as having a framer replace the flexible points to a new position.
Or, you may need to replace the back (or glass), using suitable materials and tools that only a framer has.
Some framers refuse to work with "factory frames" because of these extra headaches.
I can only assume the screws are intended to be used for attaching a hanger of some sort?
Hi, mkashyap. Several years ago, someone brought in some black wood Ikea frames for us to put matted photos in. They looked deep, but could really only hold shallow art. The reason was that the frames weren't sturdy enough to stay together on their own, so they had a sort of structure inside the back. It was very simple, and if memory serves correctly, had a thin strip of metal running up the inside center middle of each frame leg, in the back, from the back of the art backing, to the back of the frame. Each one had a screw hole in it, and the four screws went into those. (Then, they hadn't sent the right length of screws in their little pack, so when we screwed them through to support, the screw tips almost came out the sides of the frame. They actually made little mounds in the wood, it was so close). From what you wrote, it might be something completely different, and I have no idea what a folding frame for a puzzle looks like. But your question about the screws did bring it to mind.
Another thing that comes to mind is whether the frame is deep enough for your puzzle. I know a puzzle is shallow, but some ready made frames are notorious for being super shallow. Like, only room for a piece of paper and the backing that comes with the frame. I'd second the request for a photo.
Another thing that comes to mind is whether the frame is deep enough for your puzzle. I know a puzzle is shallow, but some ready made frames are notorious for being super shallow. Like, only room for a piece of paper and the backing that comes with the frame. I'd second the request for a photo.
Mkashyap
Show the 1000 piece jigsaw the respect it deserves. Save yourself the grief of trying to squeeze it into an IKEA frame
Take it to a frame shop and get it framed correctly in a way that will enhance and protect it, and give you lasting pleasure
It will become something you will be proud to hang on your wall
I'm surprised
that 3 of the top USA framers have taken their valuable time to offer their help, when they could instead be making frames.
Show the 1000 piece jigsaw the respect it deserves. Save yourself the grief of trying to squeeze it into an IKEA frame
Take it to a frame shop and get it framed correctly in a way that will enhance and protect it, and give you lasting pleasure
It will become something you will be proud to hang on your wall
I'm surprised
that 3 of the top USA framers have taken their valuable time to offer their help, when they could instead be making frames.Thank you Brian - there was a typing mistake - it should be "hold" not "fold" and here is the puzzle
If I hold it at the (top center) of the frame the plastic/acrylic part comes out, is that normal for any frame?
Appreciate your input about the screws
Attachments
Matthew Hale
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
holding most frames by the center of the top rail is generally not a god idea. IKEA frames are especially flexible (most of them aren't even real wood, but a type of MDF composite. typically the hanging hardware is integrated with the backing in some way that allows the backing to add some rigidity to the frame itself. I'll second the 1st part of Mr. Hewitt's comment, and suggest you upgrade to a higher quality custom frame if you can.
Agreed. Certain Ikea products are great. Unfortunately, frames are not among them. Ikea frames are an accident waiting to happen.
As Matthew said, you do not want to support the weight of any frame by the center (or ideally any part) of the top rail.
Some premade frames will have hangers built into the backer.
Others will have sawtooth hangers to attach to the top rail, near the sides.
The best option is a wire that is screwed in from the side rails of the frame.
Some premade frames will have hangers built into the backer.
Others will have sawtooth hangers to attach to the top rail, near the sides.
The best option is a wire that is screwed in from the side rails of the frame.
framah
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Once you put everything into the frame, then use some hot glue to attach it all to the inside of the frame so it is one integral unit and the top rail won't bow out and lose the plexi or anything else out the front.
This is assuming you still want to make this train wreck of a frame actually work.
Better to use the 4 sides of the frame as tomato stakes and have a framer do the job right.
This is assuming you still want to make this train wreck of a frame actually work.
Better to use the 4 sides of the frame as tomato stakes and have a framer do the job right.
CAUTION: Some of these frames are made of a material so weak that they will not safely hold screws without crumbling.
carp in, carp out
Hi, again. Please clarify if I'm off, but my guess is that you're not a custom picture framer. Your note sounds more like you're doing a home project and searched the internet for help. If this is the case, I'm so glad that you found the Grumble! Again, if you're a framer, please forgive me for preaching to the choir. But if not, there are some helpful things we can share.
One is about glazing. The frame that you have has come with regular glazing. Whether glass or acrylic, this generally deflects around 40% of UV light. Anything can fade over time, not just from that extra 1%, but also from all the other light in the spectrum. Heat can also cause fading, as can the quality of the art medium. (As an example, prints and photos made with pigment-based inks last much longer than those done with dye-based). Anything you'll buy readymade, such as Ikea frame, has this lower quality glazing. Fine for things you don't mind fading sooner, but you'll still want to keep it out of the sun or florescent lights. Those both cause a lot of fading. If you ever have art that you want to protect better, there is conservation quality glass and acrylic available. Most local glass shops only carry regular quality glazing, but you can find both types at a custom frame shop. Both regular and conservation come in clear and non-glare (also called reflection control). The clear has lots of reflections, like in a window, but good detail. Reflections aren't such a big deal on light things, but with dark art, all you'll see is yourself and what's in the room. The non-glare option used to be popular, but is blurry, so not ideal. It's basically what existed before museum finish conservation glass was developed. Museum finish, whether in glass or acrylic, has very few reflections. It still shows some, but very little, to the point where people often don't realize that it's there. Not for steamy bathrooms or kitchens, but it's beautiful in the right spot. All three of these finishes, in conservation quality glazing, have the sane level of protection; they just look different from the front. Any custom frame shop should have samples of these that they can hold over your art.
It also helps to know that paper art and photography lasts best when it's not touching the glazing. With glass, tiny amounts of humidity form inside, so over time, anything that's touching it has the potential for a moisture interaction. You've likely seen resin-coated photos that stuck to the glass, for this reason. Or paper art that has rippled or mildewed where touching glass. For this reason, we usually either mat paper art, which holds it away from the glass, or, for 'poster quality' art, we mount to foam core and hold away from the glass with spacers. If art must touch the glazing, acrylic tends to be better than glass, because it has less of that humidity reaction. I have to get to work, so will stop typing for now, but just wanted to share a few things. If you're a framer and have been rolling your eyes so hard that they sprained, thank you for being gracious. If you're a home-project person, good for you, and thanks for feeling free to ask a question. Either way, I hope your project works out, and wishing you a great day.
One is about glazing. The frame that you have has come with regular glazing. Whether glass or acrylic, this generally deflects around 40% of UV light. Anything can fade over time, not just from that extra 1%, but also from all the other light in the spectrum. Heat can also cause fading, as can the quality of the art medium. (As an example, prints and photos made with pigment-based inks last much longer than those done with dye-based). Anything you'll buy readymade, such as Ikea frame, has this lower quality glazing. Fine for things you don't mind fading sooner, but you'll still want to keep it out of the sun or florescent lights. Those both cause a lot of fading. If you ever have art that you want to protect better, there is conservation quality glass and acrylic available. Most local glass shops only carry regular quality glazing, but you can find both types at a custom frame shop. Both regular and conservation come in clear and non-glare (also called reflection control). The clear has lots of reflections, like in a window, but good detail. Reflections aren't such a big deal on light things, but with dark art, all you'll see is yourself and what's in the room. The non-glare option used to be popular, but is blurry, so not ideal. It's basically what existed before museum finish conservation glass was developed. Museum finish, whether in glass or acrylic, has very few reflections. It still shows some, but very little, to the point where people often don't realize that it's there. Not for steamy bathrooms or kitchens, but it's beautiful in the right spot. All three of these finishes, in conservation quality glazing, have the sane level of protection; they just look different from the front. Any custom frame shop should have samples of these that they can hold over your art.
It also helps to know that paper art and photography lasts best when it's not touching the glazing. With glass, tiny amounts of humidity form inside, so over time, anything that's touching it has the potential for a moisture interaction. You've likely seen resin-coated photos that stuck to the glass, for this reason. Or paper art that has rippled or mildewed where touching glass. For this reason, we usually either mat paper art, which holds it away from the glass, or, for 'poster quality' art, we mount to foam core and hold away from the glass with spacers. If art must touch the glazing, acrylic tends to be better than glass, because it has less of that humidity reaction. I have to get to work, so will stop typing for now, but just wanted to share a few things. If you're a framer and have been rolling your eyes so hard that they sprained, thank you for being gracious. If you're a home-project person, good for you, and thanks for feeling free to ask a question. Either way, I hope your project works out, and wishing you a great day.
I find this original poster appears to have little appreciation of the help he got from TG.
Joined Jun 24, 2021
Last seen Jun 25, 2021
Which means probably not seen the later posts, especially Shayla's 573 words
Joined Jun 24, 2021
Last seen Jun 25, 2021
Which means probably not seen the later posts, especially Shayla's 573 words
Well the system did email them copies of any follow-ups, including this one.
There was some good, frank, advice.
There was some good, frank, advice.
They were useful words, and I'm sure the OP is capable of reading that many.I find this original poster appears to have little appreciation of the help he got from TG.
Joined Jun 24, 2021
Last seen Jun 25, 2021
Which means probably not seen the later posts, especially Shayla's 573 words
And perhaps they've spent every day since June 25th knitting a pair of solid gold birthday socks just for you, and are, at this very moment, climbing your doorstep to wish you a happy belated.
Shayla
I am an optimist
I just hope they post a picture of the completed job.
I am an optimist
I just hope they post a picture of the completed job.
artfolio
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Maybe the whole thing fell out of the frame and he is frantically trying to reassemble it??