Falconboard Print

Create a Post
A

adjframes

True Grumbler
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Posts
85
Loc
Boston, MA
Anybody have any experience with Falconboard Print (or Mount)? Basically it's a honeycomb panel (either kraft colored or all-white) with a printable paper fused to the face. Thinking about possibly using it to hinge a drawing over (1/2" riser needed). I called the company to try to get some info about the chemical makeup of the honeycomb structure and/or the white paper, but they were less than helpful apart from saying everything is recyclable (so not a plastic paper base apparently). It's super cheap at a local distributor compared to some other options (Tycore for one).

I know Rob discussed their product in the Large Frame workshop at the WCAF, but it seems there are a bunch of varieties and I'm not sure which one he was using.

FB Print brochure:
http://www.boiseinc.com/falconboard...filePathBinary/FalconBoardPRINTbrochureUS.pdf
 
It is for signage and other displays. It is kraft paper just like the brown backing but is colored white.
 
Falcon Board is not intended to be a conservation/preservation material and the exposed edge has a lot of voids.

If you want to be safe, wrap the board with Marvelseal. If the "aluminum" color of the Marvelseal is a problem, cover the Marvelseal with 2 play rag and wrap the edges with Lineco White Frame Sealing Tape. Less safe is lining with rag and also taping the edges.

The problem is with the edges. If you want a clean, square edge - 1/2" gator covered with Marvelseal and taped with the Lineco Tape would give a better edge.

Or you could use 13MM Sintra (still not conservation/preservation) or 13mm Interpro (similar to Coroplast). It runs about $35 a sheet - but you have the same edge issues.

Alternatively, you could laminate two sheets of 3/16" Acid Free Fome-cor (or 4 sheets of 1/8") using an Conservation grade adhesive and dry it under weights. You will get a square edge (if you use a sharp blade) and then you could tape it off with white faced metal tape to cover the edge.
 
Rob Markoff said:
Falcon Board is not intended to be a conservation/preservation material and the exposed edge has a lot of voids.

If you want to be safe, wrap the board with Marvelseal. If the "aluminum" color of the Marvelseal is a problem, cover the Marvelseal with 2 play rag and wrap the edges with Lineco White Frame Sealing Tape. Less safe is lining with rag and also taping the edges.

The problem is with the edges. If you want a clean, square edge - 1/2" gator covered with Marvelseal and taped with the Lineco Tape would give a better edge.

Or you could use 13MM Sintra (still not conservation/preservation) or 13mm Interpro (similar to Coroplast). It runs about $35 a sheet - but you have the same edge issues.

Alternatively, you could laminate two sheets of 3/16" Acid Free Fome-cor (or 4 sheets of 1/8") using an Conservation grade adhesive and dry it under weights. You will get a square edge (if you use a sharp blade) and then you could tape it off with white faced metal tape to cover the edge.
Click to expand...

All good thoughts Rob, thanks. It seems like, as I imagined, the Falconboard is likely to leech out acid into the drawings unless properly sealed. I should have mentioned that the drawings in question are 52x72, so would need a full sheet, and a significant amount of mavelseal.

I'm not really concerned with the edges not being sharp as the platform will be hidden with hinges wrapped around them. Actually sharp edges worry me more that they might slit the hinges if handled improperly.

It seems like foamcor may be the best way to go for these.

Btw, what white-faced metal tape would you use? I haven't seen a tape like that before.
 
Rob Markoff said:
Falcon Board is not intended to be a conservation/preservation material and the exposed edge has a lot of voids.

If you want to be safe, wrap the board with Marvelseal. If the "aluminum" color of the Marvelseal is a problem, cover the Marvelseal with 2 play rag and wrap the edges with Lineco White Frame Sealing Tape. Less safe is lining with rag and also taping the edges.

The problem is with the edges. If you want a clean, square edge - 1/2" gator covered with Marvelseal and taped with the Lineco Tape would give a better edge.

Or you could use 13MM Sintra (still not conservation/preservation) or 13mm Interpro (similar to Coroplast). It runs about $35 a sheet - but you have the same edge issues.

Alternatively, you could laminate two sheets of 3/16" Acid Free Fome-cor (or 4 sheets of 1/8") using an Conservation grade adhesive and dry it under weights. You will get a square edge (if you use a sharp blade) and then you could tape it off with white faced metal tape to cover the edge.
Click to expand...

************************************************
Though I like the MarvelSeal idea that sure will add to the price. Why not 8 or 12 ply rag?

There is a preservation honeycomb product called Tycore available 1/2" and 3/4" thick up to 4x8' sold through Talas, and University Products. It is a high end museum product, all neutral rag materials, and has a high price tag, but you do indeed get what you pay for. Or you can look for Hexamount honeycomb--west coast suppkier is Hollinger Metal Edge--which is also sold to museums. It comes with white or black surface papers and has two grades up to 3/4" thick.

Actually you cannot mount foam boards together as they are insulators rather than conductors of heat--if you are referring to mounting them when you say laminating them.
Chris Paschke
 
DesignsInk said:
Though I like the MarvelSeal idea that sure will add to the price. Why not 8 or 12 ply rag?

There is a preservation honeycomb product called Tycore available 1/2" and 3/4" thick up to 4x8' sold through Talas, and University Products. It is a high end museum product, all neutral rag materials, and has a high price tag, but you do indeed get what you pay for. Or you can look for Hexamount honeycomb--west coast suppkier is Hollinger Metal Edge--which is also sold to museums. It comes with white or black surface papers and has two grades up to 3/4" thick.

Actually you cannot mount foam boards together as they are insulators rather than conductors of heat--if you are referring to mounting them when you say laminating them.
Chris Paschke
Click to expand...

Yes, I've looked into the Tycore, it's just a little pricey (talas has it for 112/sh if I buy 5) but seems ideal. The hexamount is 535/sh at university products which is way out of the client's price range.

If I mount the foam boards together, I'd probably have a vendor cold mount them if the hot press won't work.
 
Chris- my terminology harkened back to my woodworking days where we "stack laminated" wood veneers together.

The "process" I was referring to was to use a wet adhesive to bond the layers of foam board together - surface paper to surface paper which I have done with great success. I mentioned drying under weight so the boards would dry flat - because if they were not weighted, the glue would cause shrinkage of the papers causing bowing.

I know it can be done because I have done it. What would you call the process?

Given that the OP is talking about needing a raiser that is close to 52 x 72, how is 8 ply (which is not 1/2" thick) or 12 ply rag going to be less expensive? I wasn't aware that rag of either thickness is available that large. That means the raiser would have to be pieced together and also mounted to the float board. Isn't 8 ply or 12 ply rag also heavier? Wouldn't that require a much stronger float board for the raiser to be attached to?

Wouldn't two sheets of 13mm white polypropylene butted together with edges wrapped with white metal tape be lighter and less expensive?
 
adjframes said:
Yes, I've looked into the Tycore, it's just a little pricey ......
Click to expand...

Since you took the Framing Oversized Art Class - you may recall that one of the first slides of the PowerPoint was "It's gonna be expensive...." :)

Quality materials have their price. Oversized materials (greater than 48 x 98) are exponentially more expensive - and/or the labor to reinvent the wheel will also add to the cost.
 
Rob Markoff said:
Since you took the Framing Oversized Art Class - you may recall that one of the first slides of the PowerPoint was "It's gonna be expensive...." :)

Quality materials have their price. Oversized materials (greater than 48 x 98) are exponentially more expensive - and/or the labor to reinvent the wheel will also add to the cost.
Click to expand...

Certainly and the client is well aware of the price of all of this. I just want to make sure I've looked at all my options before going ahead.
 
Rob Markoff said:
Chris- my terminology harkened back to my woodworking days where we "stack laminated" wood veneers together.

The "process" I was referring to was to use a wet adhesive to bond the layers of foam board together - surface paper to surface paper which I have done with great success. I mentioned drying under weight so the boards would dry flat - because if they were not weighted, the glue would cause shrinkage of the papers causing bowing.

I know it can be done because I have done it. What would you call the process?

Given that the OP is talking about needing a raiser that is close to 52 x 72, how is 8 ply (which is not 1/2" thick) or 12 ply rag going to be less expensive? I wasn't aware that rag of either thickness is available that large. That means the raiser would have to be pieced together and also mounted to the float board. Isn't 8 ply or 12 ply rag also heavier? Wouldn't that require a much stronger float board for the raiser to be attached to?

Wouldn't two sheets of 13mm white polypropylene butted together with edges wrapped with white metal tape be lighter and less expensive?
Click to expand...


I thought you did indeed mean gluing together but in our industry I avoid "laminating" unless discussing vinyl or polyester surface laminates. I would have said fused with P-S or glued with PVA. Whatever. I like the honeycomb idea best for weight, rigidity, et al. But Hexamount is what I would offer even if it needs to be butted, it won't be seen.

And yes, oversized is not economy, nor should the solution be for a particular customer challenge. We are experts for a reason...don't undersell your expertise, research, education, nor materials.
Chris Paschke
 
adjframes said:
actually, that hexacomb is for 5 sheets...which is more reasonable.
Click to expand...

If you opt for non-preservation bleached Kraft (Falconboard) there is a better choice for you with Gilman Brothers EagleCell available up to 2" thick with clay coated surface papers larger than 4x8'. It is higher grade than Falconboard because of the thicker surface papers. Their website is being redesigned but the product is sold in sign and digital markets, plus you might be able to get it from a distributor who sells Gilman foam board.
Chris Paschke
 
Create a Post
Back
Top