Cutting your own easel backs

[Larry Peterson]

I'm considering setting up to make Easel Backs using the stuff from Craft Inc.

I've looked at standard backs but don't like them as they only offer a standard leg length which doesn't work well with any moulding over 3/4". Craft offers an number of different length legs to accommodate this.

The Craft stuff looks nice but they only offer certain sizes of backs, 3.5 x 5, 5x7, 8x10 and 11x14 and I need to make them in whatever size I need. I currently use EaselMates but want to add regular backs as well.

My question. Can their Easel Back blanks be cut to any size and what do you use to cut them; mat cutter, paper trimmer, wall trimmer or other? And do the cut backs look good; same finish as the factory cut side.

I've been calling Craft but can't get through to what seems like the only person there that can answer this. The last person I talked to didn't have an answer but couldn't understand why I would want to cut down their blanks.

 

[CB Art & Framing]

I cut them on wallcutter. Make sure to cut down stand section as well.

 

[Larry Peterson]

I finally got through to the person who knows at Craft and found out that they are easily trimmable.

I will be buying the whole kit with separate backs and a variety of different legs so I can adjust the leg length as needed. One of the things I don't like about the pre-made ones is the legs are only good for narrow frames. For wider frames, the legs are too short.

 

[Larry Peterson]

Which brings up another questions. What is the proper display angle for a frame with an easel back? I don't have any frames with easel backs to measure. I know it is less than 90" degrees. I'm guessing somewhere around 70-75% but I don't want to guess.

Once I figure out a correct angle, I will setup a jig so I can consistently get the same display angle.

 

[cvm]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The hinge pretty much takes care of the angle.

 

[Larry Peterson]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The hinge pretty much takes care of the angle.

If you put a standard back on a moulding with a 3/4" width, the angle will be different than if you put the same back on a moulding with a 3" width.

With the frame is stood at 90 degrees, the length from the bottom of the leg to the table will be vastly different. The angle that the frames stands at will be vastly different as well. The narrower moulding will be far closer to vertical than the wider moulding.

By know what the angle is supposed to be, the leg length can be adjust to that angle.

 

[Bill Henry-]

I've had trouble cutting them down because of fraying.

 

[cvm]

Larry, what I'm saying is if you're using the Craft Inc tool, and the correct length leg for the drop, you really don't have to worry about it.

Just buy the starter kit; you'll figure it out in about three minutes.

 

[Larry Peterson]

Larry, what I'm saying is if you're using the Craft Inc tool, and the correct length leg for the drop, you really don't have to worry about it.

Just buy the starter kit; you'll figure it out in about three minutes.

I've read their material. Not a problem for the few standard sizes that they make; 5x7, 8x10 and 11x14. But what about other sizes? When I cut down an 8x10 blank for a 6x8 frame, what leg length do I use? Knowing what the proper final angle is will help with that.

I don't want to slink into M's with a protractor to measure the angles.

 

[Larry Peterson]

Adam from Craft just called me back about another question I had and he explained how to do it properly. Their backs are made so the frame can be used in either portrait or landscape mode. When the frame is lying flat, you place the leg so it is flush with the corner of the frame and all will be well.

I'm ordering today and will be trying them out shortly.

 

[Nikki]

I have all the stuff to do this and I do like the quality of products Craft Inc. has. Once you do it, you'll understand. One tip - If you are cutting down a blank, say an 8" x 10" to a 7" x 7", finish off the cut edges with a black magic marker. All the edges will then visually match. I also finish off the nail heads in black once I've ATG/nailed the easel back to the frame. Just to visually hide them. Have fun!!