cutting splines on a router table

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adjframes

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Anyone do this? I've heard this is an alternative to using a table saw, would be faster, more consistent, and easier with big frames... I hope.

Could you possibly post a picture of your table setup?

I've got a router, just need to figure out how to build the table. I guess it should be pretty long/wide not your standard 18x24 or whatever those readymade tables usually are.

Do you slice them upside down like on the morso?

Also, could you suggest a good router bit to use? I'll be cutting primarily maple, cherry, and walnut. Any help would be great, thanks.
 
With a jig... all things are possible.

I have a small sled that I use with a fly cutter, but limited depth of spline....

I broke down last year and build a rather nice jig for our table saw that
rides along the Bessy rail......

My partner in sawdust, doesn't understand jigs or sleds...... and cleaned
out his garage where the jig was with the saw..........:kaffeetrinker_2:

I'll make sure he's around when I build it again this year.... he likes the look
but didn't understand how I got different length of splines . . .
 
Google "slot cutters".
 
This is the one from Rockler that is similar to what I use...

91785-02-200.jpg


this is only a three wing, and it prone to tearing out chunks in
the trailing side if the bits are the least bit dull...

This is similar to the jig (little book holder?) I had for the table saw
just ignore the time consuming set up this guy did on his band saw.....
(if he was at the table saw already.....?)

[video=youtube;QaCwntAJK5c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaCwntAJK5c&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
 
With really big frames a table saw can be unwieldy. We've done them with no issues up to about 5' x 8' - we build the strainer first and attach it to the glued frame before cutting the slots. And use two people to hold it. Similar to Baer (I think), we use a jig that rides in the machined slots on the table of our Unisaw - we attached the Delta made tenoning jig to a sled and added a fence with 45° supports. The built-in threaded adjustment works great. The only real improvement I'd like is more precise/repeatable depth control.

photo.jpg
 
Dave, with one that big, or the quilt ones I build.... nothing works with only 7'1" overhead.....
I have another jig that works with my 1/8" kerf back saw.....
 
Bob Doyle said:
Umm, why can't the frame lie flat and the spline cutter be mounted perpendicular? Seems like less room for error.
Click to expand...

It can, and is. One of our customers uses a radial arm saw with the blade turned horizontal, and it's probably worth it if you do a lot of larger frames. For frames too large to feasibly move many people use a "biscuit joiner" with a special attachment. The biggest problem there is that unless you get a custom made blade the slots are too wide to be aesthetically pleasing IMO (roughly 3/16" instead of 1/8"), and it can be difficult to get a cut as deep as you need if the moulding is very wide.
 
David N Waldmann said:
One of our customers uses a radial arm saw with the blade turned horizontal, and it's probably worth it if you do a lot of larger frames.
Click to expand...

I have a sliding "sled" I built for my radial arm saw that uses ball bearing drawer runners as the track and I turn the head of the saw horizontal. I use this on large frames.

For "average" frames, I have a sled for my table saw and "depth" setting jigs specific to each profile.

I have three special built blades (1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" wide) for spline cutting that have squared teeth so the kerf has a square bottom and doesn't look like someone used an "ATB" blade to cut a slot. (pet peeve). Like Baer, I found that winged slot cutters on a router table were prone to "tear out"

The first shot is a Jim Dine litho framed in Maple with Wenge splines. For a frame this large we used the sliding jig on the radial saw.

The second shot is a detail of the 1/4" thick Wenge splines.
 

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David N Waldmann said:
One advantage to having 24' ceilings...
:D
Click to expand...

Now you're just being hurtful and spitefully showing off. :D


As for the winged cutter mounted to cut horizontally, that is what I have
and generally use for my smaller frames.
But as David points out.... the 1/4" kerf is not the most aesthetically pleasing...
but it works.....

But anything over about 20x20, and I'm out of room in the little shop, and head
across the street to the table saw..... or set up my Dumbo hold-all in the driveway
and grab the back saw....
 
Rob, I didn't know you had a son. He is bald too I see. :P
 
And skinnier......:)
 
Thanks for the tips. Seems like tearout is the only significant issue with the router/slot cutter method, but for someone like Baer with low ceilings (about 7'6"), table saw is a little impractical. Seems like it's worth a try.

For those that use the table saw method, I'm wondering how your insure the frame doesn't fall apart when you're cutting the slots on the table saw. I suppose you use strap clamps to glue up? Is that study enough, esp. with a 1/4" wide moulding? David, do you screw in the strainer while in a strap clamp?
 
adjframes said:
For those that use the table saw method, I'm wondering how your insure the frame doesn't fall apart when you're cutting the slots on the table saw. I suppose you use strap clamps to glue up? Is that study enough, esp. with a 1/4" wide moulding? David, do you screw in the strainer while in a strap clamp?
Click to expand...

Because a table saw blade (10") is breaking the sound barrier at the tips (750mph+)
each tip is through the wood long before it could vibrate or distort the glue bond.

I don't understand your reference to 1/4" wide moulding.... but maybe you mean the 1/4" wide foot..
as in a 1/2" wide moulding (face measurement).

I would think that with such a narrow moulding, you aren't building a 30x40 frame.... and if you are, I would
guess you have a strainer like David is showing. When I do the strainer, I do block it up and screw it in
to at least the corners while I have the frame in the band clamps.... I have even been known to use the Kreg
pocket screws in the strainer as the basic clamping system, and then secure it all with a band clamp or bar clamps.
 
I don't understand your reference to 1/4" wide moulding.... but maybe you mean the 1/4" wide foot..
as in a 1/2" wide moulding (face measurement).
Click to expand...

yes, exactly. I use this profile quite a bit, always with a strainer.

Because a table saw blade (10") is breaking the sound barrier at the tips (750mph+)
each tip is through the wood long before it could vibrate or distort the glue bond.
Click to expand...

I was wondering more about just handling the frame and rotating it. But with the strainer screwed in it should be pretty secure.

I suppose it's a general no-no to cut the slots first? Would that affect the joint?
 
With a Hoffman joiner, you can join the frame first and then cut the splines right though the hoffman wedges.
 
I'm doing one of these now, a big float frame with 3 splines. I vise-joined the frame today, and I'm letting it cure overnight. Tomorrow I'll cut the slots in the table saw, using a jig that rides along the fence and holds the frame at a 45-degree angle to the table. The biggest challenge, I've found, is cutting the inserts to size. I'll be using a bandsaw for that part of the job.
 
You can rip the spline material thicker than needed on a table saw and thin on a belt sander.
 
The woodworker's curse: there's always another tool you don't have!

I think it's easier to cut that 1/8th inch slot than it is to cut the right size insert. Cutting the slot is unlikely to harm the frame, if you've given the glue enough time to set up. You're more likely to break the join by pushing in the insert. That's where you are really stressing the join.
 
Belt sanders for light work are dirt cheap. Once thinned to a thickness that is close you should finish by hand which only takes a few more seconds to a minute. If you are going to do a lot of these you should be able to zero in on the rip size to where you only need to finish by hand. Use a piece of sacrificial wood such as a 2x4 scrap to get your thickness right before cutting the good stuff.

A belt sander is a great toy/tool to have around though. The combo belt disc sander will allow you to make rounded corner frames in minutes. To round a corner just trace a template such as a round mat board cut out onto the top face of the moulding in pencil. Rest the joined frame corner face up on the table support of the disc sander and twist let and right as the wood conforms to you pencil marks. Finish the smoothing by hand once you have the corner rounded to the desired shape. Rounded corners look great when joined with splines but can also be done on v-nailed frames.
 
adjframes said:
I was wondering more about just handling the frame and rotating it. But with the strainer screwed in it should be pretty secure.
Click to expand...
Yes, the strainer is to keep it from breaking during handling.


adjframes said:
I suppose it's a general no-no to cut the slots first? Would that affect the joint?
Click to expand...
The problem with cutting the slots before assembly is that unless you go very high tech it's going to be almost impossible to get multiples lined up perfectly. That means the splines will have to be slightly undersized in order to fit, which in turn will lead to unsightly gaps as well as a weakened joint.

As to making spline stock, yes that is the more difficult part even with fancy equipment. We make it up (in our moulder) in pieces 4-1/2" wide, a few thousandths heavy. Then we rip to the various widths we want and cut into triangles. A few swipes on a sanding block gives you a custom fit for each one. We make spline stock for several of our customers, generally 500-2000 lineal feet at a time to make it cost effective.
 
Quick update:

built a router table and a carriage jig with the help of a local tool guy (and your suggestions). He suggested using a straight router bit (looks like a drill bit with a flat top) then finish off with a plunge bit to trim the keys right to the frame, hardly any sanding required. Now just having trouble with the stock. cut the first bunch a little too heavy and is taking forever to sand/scrape it down to size. Might look into a belt sander at some point.

Thanks!

att: walnut frame with maple splines
2012-08-01 12.29.43.jpg
 
no.... but characters leave the flaws in - - - on purpose.

Unless they are marine biologist.... then it's on porpoise
 
When using a slot cutter with the frame horizontal on the table, clamp a block of wood to the frame to avoid blowout where the cutter exits the frame.

On the router table I sometimes use a dovetail cutter and make dovetail shaped splines for "mock dovetails" - look cool and very strong

I have a bisquit cutter screwed to a board with 90 degree guide boards also screwed to the board - slip the frame against the guides and plunge the cutter to cut splines.
 
Router table in shop - Tablesaw at home

I prefer the frame flat on a table rather than upright on a tablesaw - splines are often in large frames

On the router table I can use 2 or 3 cutters with spacers between to cut more than one spline in a pass

Tablesaw blade is 1/8th thick - I have slot cutters that can cut from 1/16th to 1/2 inch splines - sometimes I like 1/4 between 2 - 1/8 splines or vise versa.

Here's a neat trick with slot cutters in a router table - I have a slot cutter, 3/32 I think, that cuts a glass size groove. I'll cut a glass slot right under the rabbet lip and assemble the frame around the glass. A rabbeting bit, I have bearing guided bits that will cut to 1 1/4 inch wide, has cut a rabbet to suit at the back of the frame. No spacers required.

Don't know how a frame shop operates without a router table or 2

Router table with split fence and big shopvac sucking thru the fence is almost dustless.

However I haven't been doing a lot of splines lately - time to rotate the skills.
 
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