attaching brass shell casings

[Shayla]

We're attaching three spent shell casings to a mat backing, and I'm thinking about how to do it. The customer's fine with hot glue, and we only use the non-corrosive electrician's kind, but I'm thinking a mechanical hold would be longer lasting and less interactive. (Too, the hot glue has a set time of about five seconds, so it's trickier than one might guess attaching them). This photo is from online, to show what we have, but those hear, we plan to display in a vertical orientation, with 1/8" space between them, with the open ends facing down. With the flat part at the top, I can imagine wrapping wire just under that and through holes hidden in the mat, but not sure what wire would be best. It doesn't have to look like aged brass, but it at least needs to look good on not corrode. Also thought about using mylinex (mylar) strips to anchor the bottoms. Or I could do one slit behind each and just use a single mylinex wrap around the whole shell body, then through a slit behind.

Feel free to share thoughts and what wire/method. And if this seems too simple to have merited a thread, then pat yourself on the back for knowing so many wonderful things and buy yourself an ice cream.

 

[Rick Granick]

Mylar strap. Cut a slot behind the casing. Loop the strap up through the slot, around the casing, and back down through the slot. On the back, pull the ends of the strap away from each other until the casing is tightly in place, and affix the ends to the back of the board with 3M 9088 tape or equivalent. Quick and easy.
Rick

 

[Joe B]

I do retirement certificates for police officers in a couple of the cities here and am always attaching shell casing including live ammo inside their shadowbox. I cut a slit behind and for the full length of the shell, just wide enough for the sell to set in just about 1/3 the way, you can't see the cavity from the front. I tape behind the slit so I can fill the cavity with hot glue and then I set the shell into the cavity - a few minutes later you are done and the shell is super tight and I cannot see it falling out at anytime. The tape keeps the glue nice and flat so it is easy to cover when finishing your frame job. I personally like the hot glue the best for ammo casings.

Rick's idea is good and what I use to do. Problem is that with the warmth that can accumulate inside the shadowbox the Mylar strap may expand far enough to allow the shell to fall out the bottom. I had it happen with live ammo which weighs more than the empty shell. The extra weight of the live ammo may have caused the issue but I sure hated taking the box apart to do the repair. If you do use Mylar straps make sure the slot/cavity behind the shell casing is cut so the bottom of the shell is setting on the bottom of the cavity giving it some support assuring the casing can't drop out - just a suggestion. Joe

 

[Prospero]

There is some fine copper wire that is used in transformers (not the big roboty things.). You can get it from
places where they sell electrical components or you could cannibalise an old radio. This stuff can be very thin, almost
as thin as a hair but it is very strong. It's coated in lacquer for insulation so no chemical reactions and the color is quite
like the shell case color. Wrap a few turns around and it will hold firm. Thread though the backing and twist to pull it tight.

Just a thought...

 

[Jim Miller]

Mylar strap.

Yes, just as Rick described. I'd use a strap as wide as the long part where diameter is consistent. That is, have the clear film strap run up to the slot at the top, and stop just above the shoulder at the bottom.

Pull the straps as tight as possible and, as Rick said, be sure to use a good tape on the back of the slots. A combination of 3M 889 or ASAP Tapes fillet tape #ASA600, along with final covering of single-sided tape would be my choice.

From the photo, it's hard to get a sense for the size of these. Maybe it would be better to use two slots behind each casing, which might make the strap mounts a little more stable.

 

[Shayla]

Thanks, guys! The shells in the photo look big, but these are the regular size of shells that are fired at a military funeral (whatever that is.) Your help is much appreciated.

 

[aangles]

If flat end is pointing up, you could also use nylon filament or fishing line around that groove at the top; put two adjacent pin holes in matboard about 1/8" apart centered underneath each shell, in line with grooves. You can probably lay those holes out along a T-square for even spacing and straightness. Run line up thru one and down thru other, tie on back and secure. While it might be visible, it's not obvious, and it's plenty strong enough to hold shells. I can usually work the knot on the back fairly tight after tying then secure with framers tape or some similar archival tape. Mylar strap is good too; probably hold it straighter. But there's the shine factor. If you want to look for wire, Michaels ahem used to have brass-colored wire in Jewelry department...

 

[Rick Granick]

If you want to look for wire, Michaels ahem used to have brass-colored wire in Jewelry department...

Yes, craft stores have thin but strong wire in a number of colors nowadays. I like using wire. I never had any luck with fishing line being able to be tightened adequately, or staying tight once done. Plus, I would be concerned about its physical integrity over time.
Rick

 

[Shayla]

...with fishing line...I would be concerned about its physical integrity over time. Rick

I've got the same problem. Maybe I should change my name to 'Fishing Line'. lol...

 

[aangles]

Yes, craft stores have thin but strong wire in a number of colors nowadays. I like using wire. I never had any luck with fishing line being able to be tightened adequately, or staying tight once done. Plus, I would be concerned about its physical integrity over time.
Rick

I've used tigertail jewelry wire on occasion too. It's thin and flexible but strong. I need to go see what's new in the craft stores; haven't been to one in a awhile lol. As far as fishing line, I have found that if you tie it in a square knot on the back then pull the ends taut and gently tug them back and forth it will tighten it up quite a bit, then double tie and secure the knot with an archival tape. Better for lightweight things if at all because it CAN stretch out a bit and/or slip, but it's great for invisibility when you can't hide the wire or thread, if that's the goal. I agree it might have some physical integrity issues (ME TOO SHAYLA LOL... why is there no laughing emoji....) down the road though... but isn't nylon fairly stable? I actually prefer thread or wire myself; all depends on the item and the client's preference. But I do try to avoid glues as much as possible, unless the client isn't interested in conservation-quality mounting and wants to save a buck (and then I can save time too. HA). But I don't think I have ever had anything mounted with fishing line come back for a failed or loosened mount; but then maybe it takes longer than 15-25 years...

 

[FM Framer]

The shells in the photo look big, but these are the regular size of shells that are fired at a military funeral (whatever that is.) Your help is much appreciated.

Shayla,
I've been part of and been to several military funerals - those are 5.56mm casings from what is or has become one of the most popular rifles built. Many know is an M16 - many probably had one in army basic training in the last 50 ish years. I've also done my share of military and law enforcement displays
Personally I don't think you need a special glue for the brass - you could do what Joe said above - harmless, or you can also cut the mat similar to Joe's idea but leave a "tang" and run that down the crimped end of the brass (depending on how tight the crimp is) to keep it in place and add a drop of your preferred adhesive to the back. You are not going to cause any harm to that brass.
This is a blank casing, not a space shuttle engine mount.

 

[Shayla]

....not a space shuttle engine mount.

For those, we use super glue and Tang.

 

[RoboFramer]

Melinex straps would be a no-brainer for me but not one the length of the main body of the case as there would be nothing to stop them slipping out. I'd put a tiny narrow strap in the groove at the bottom which would eliminate that possibility and then another one around the narrow part at the top, maybe just another tiny narrow one, maybe one the whole length of that narrow part.

we plan to display in a vertical orientation, with 1/8" space between them, with the open ends facing down.

I'd have the open ends up as they could not be stood the other way before firing and there is a definite 'base' and 'head'

.

 

[Shayla]

I'd have the open ends up as they could not be stood the other way before firing and there is a definite 'base' and 'head'.

Is that something required for proper presentation? Having the open ends down is great, because then the top rim could be held by a strap just below. She had a colonel friend of her colonel husband look it all over, but she didn't say which way he thought the casings should point.

 

[RoboFramer]

It's not that important but normally things are framed the way that would naturally stand - in this case (aha ) though they are not really meant to stand. I still think they'd look best base-down though.

The rim can still be used, you just need another strap to prevent forward movement.

 

[Acrylic Queen]

See this photo, shell cassings mounted