Anyone used HangZ?

[optimystery]

I need to hang 3 96cm square canvases in float frames and am wondering what's the best way to deliver to a client with accurate fixings so they line up perfectly when hung.

I found these:

HangZ Easy Wire Tie 1 Hole Clamp + Screw

HangZ Easy Wire Tie 1 Hole Clamp Screw. The HangZ patented Easy Wire Tie design eliminates the need to twist and tie picture wire the old fashioned

www.ukpictureframingsupplies.co.uk

HangZ Easy Wire Tie 2 Hole Clamp + Screws

HangZ Easy Wire Tie 2 Hole Clamp Screws. The HangZ patented Easy Wire Tie design eliminates the need to twist and tie picture wire the old fashioned

www.ukpictureframingsupplies.co.uk

I'm not really familiar with using wire, coated / uncoated, crimping with ferrules / twisting etc and these seem like they might make the job easier.

Any tips on how you would handle this, and what wire you would use?
Also what's the recommended wall fixing for a float frame? I guess it will end up weighing 1.5-2kg with the frame

I've got 5 float frames to build in total, having never made one before (new to framing) so I really want to plan this job as well as possible!

 

[wpfay]

The best way to get them level and keep them that way is to lose the wire hangers and use a 2 point hanging system or a cleat hanger.

We use "D" rings attached directly to hooks in the wall, or EZ-bar aluminum cleats. We install a lot of multiples in commercial spaces, and the two point "D" rings are used for 99% of the pieces. The cleats are used only of items that are very large or heavy.

 

[Jim Miller]

I agree with Wally -- use a two point hanging system. Or, if you must use a wire, use twisted stainless steel, with or without the plastic covering. And two wall hangers.

That hanging system is new to me, but it looks pretty neat.. One thing is puzzling, though. The photographs show the wire being threaded from the top. However, according to the instructions on the drawing, the wire should be inserted from the bottom, looped over the center post, and then back down to the bottom of the hanger. Am I missing something here?

 

[alacrity8]

The best way to get them level and keep them that way is to lose the wire hangers and use a 2 point hanging system or a cleat hanger.

We use "D" rings attached directly to hooks in the wall, or EZ-bar aluminum cleats. We install a lot of multiples in commercial spaces, and the two point "D" rings are used for 99% of the pieces. The cleats are used only of items that are very large or heavy.

Additionally security hardware, installed correctly, can make things hang together well.

 

[wpfay]

Additionally security hardware, installed correctly, can make things hang together well.

Absolutely. Fortunately security isn't an issue, but if it was the secure hanging system would come into play.

 

[optimystery]

This forum is gold Thanks so much..

I've had a look on lionpic and found the following that might be what you're referring to..

Z Bar Hanger Strips 300mm for Wood frames pack 1 pair

Z Bar Hanger Strips are frame hangers in matching pairs. One strip is screwed to the wall pointing up and the other strip is screwed to the top rail of the wood or polymer frame, pointing down. The frame hooks on. It can be secured with a T Screw at the bottom.

www.lionpic.co.uk

Cleat Strips Interlocking 150mm pack 10 pairs

Cleat Strips, often known as Z Bar Hangers, are a quick way to hang frames and mirrors safely and level. Strips are fixed to the wall, pointing up, and to the back of the frame, pointing down.

www.lionpic.co.uk

If I use this type of interlocking strip system, is there a recommended ratio of width to frame?
I would guess that even 150mm should make a secure hang for a 1000mm frame

Or these?

SpringLOCK Top Slot Hanging Bracket 1 Frame Hang Kit

The fastest way to hang pictures and mirrors safely and securely SpringLOCK, developed and made in the UK, has been proven in 1000's of hotels, public buildings and restaurants around the world. It works on any kind of wall material, including drywall.

www.lionpic.co.uk

TAKIYA D Ring Hangers 10kg FHT-S50 pack 2

A sturdy D Ring hanger to fit to a frame and which takes up to 10kg if correctly installed. This D Ring Hanger on a frame can be hung directly onto smaller Takiya wall hooks or onto other types of suitable wall hook.

www.lionpic.co.uk

Ideally I will source from lionpic as I have an order for all the other bits from there.

 

[optimystery]

I agree with Wally -- use a two point hanging system. Or, if you must use a wire, use twisted stainless steel, with or without the plastic covering.

That hanging system is new to me, but it looks pretty neat.. One thing is puzzling, though. The photographs show the wire being threaded from the top. However, according to the instructions on the drawing, the wire should be inserted from the bottom, looped over the center post, and then back down to the bottom of the hanger. Am I missing something here?

Here's the diagram from ukpictureframingsupplies

 

[optimystery]

The best way to get them level and keep them that way is to lose the wire hangers and use a 2 point hanging system or a cleat hanger.

We use "D" rings attached directly to hooks in the wall, or EZ-bar aluminum cleats. We install a lot of multiples in commercial spaces, and the two point "D" rings are used for 99% of the pieces. The cleats are used only of items that are very large or heavy.

Are there any diagrams or tutorials you could direct me to?
The client asked me to install. I declined, not wanting to be liable for a brand new office space.
But as much detail and instruction as I can offer them will be best.
If their office handyman just needs to install hooks that should be fine, though I would want to know what depth and possibly supply them with correct rawlplugs and hooks.
Do d-rings go on the outer edge of the float frame as usual, or do you attach from the top edge?
If you have any photos of how you do it that would be a massive help!

 

[Jim Miller]

Here's the diagram from ukpictureframingsupplies

View attachment 46795

Right.
Now, compare the illustrations with the photos in the first post of this thread. Opposite threading.

As shown in the photos, the wire has only one tight bend inside the hanger, and a slight bend where it comes out. As shown in the illustrations, the wire has a second tight bend as it comes out of the bottom of the hanger, so I believe it would be more secure. That difference might not be an issue in most hanging situations, but if the frame is heavy or the wall vibrates, maybe the wire could work its way out.

In any case, that's a nifty hanging system to use with wire.

 

[optimystery]

Right.
Now, compare the illustrations with the photos in the first post of this thread. Opposite threading.

As shown in the photos, the wire has only one tight bend inside the hanger, and a slight bend where it comes out. As shown in the illustrations, the wire has a second tight bend as it comes out of the bottom of the hanger, so I believe it would be more secure. That difference might not be an issue in most hanging situations, but if the frame is heavy or the wall vibrates, maybe the wire could work its way out.

In any case, that's a nifty hanging system to use with wire.

I think I get what you mean. Maybe it looks different because the wire is not horizontal / under tension like in the diagram, and the photo shows the diagram's configuration inverted?

 

[Jim Miller]

I think I get what you mean. Maybe it looks different because the wire is not horizontal / under tension like in the diagram, and the photo shows the diagram's configuration inverted?

Yes. The direction of threading the wire is better in the illustrations than in the photos.

 

[wpfay]

Are there any diagrams or tutorials you could direct me to?
The client asked me to install. I declined, not wanting to be liable for a brand new office space.
But as much detail and instruction as I can offer them will be best.
If their office handyman just needs to install hooks that should be fine, though I would want to know what depth and possibly supply them with correct rawlplugs and hooks.
Do d-rings go on the outer edge of the float frame as usual, or do you attach from the top edge?
If you have any photos of how you do it that would be a massive help!

The position of the "D" rings is usually about 1/4 the total rail length from the top, but that can vary when using 2 point hanging. The closer to the top, the less likely to tip forward.
Here's a photo of how I use a tri-square to position metal map tacks on the back of the frame.

The second picture shows how the hanger, and I do use the "D" shaped hangers vs the more triangularly shaped ones, is hung from the pin of the map tack for precise positioning. The strap of the "D" ring is pulled against the pin gently and the hole is marked, drilled and the proper screw inserted. This is the lightest weight "D" ring I use. I also use the double hole in this size and the single, double and triple hole in the heavy duty "D" rings.
Getting the hooks* in the wall requires good carpentry skills and, at times, specialized equipment. I have used laser levels.
My normal installation tool is a plastic 48" long scale ruler with built in spirit bubble levels made by Mayes.
Here's a link to what they look like and cost. You will see that one side is a standard scale and the other is from the center. The center scale is very handy in installing framed items.

https://www.autozone.com/clamps-and-measuring-tools/level/p/mayes-48in-polystyrene-level-rule/1142460_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:19489353547&&CATARGETID=120054150001573208&CADevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw-KipBhBtEiwAWjgwrNFU0aSvJa8PTCFUIvnGQKoIWhDLJjHmnY3KV91LOQPDTY3BvEfLbBoCcOQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

*I use floreat style hangers exclusively and compress the hook some so it doesn't stick out from the wall so far.

 

[Rick Granick]

Wally, I use a similar system to locate the D-rings (or Wallbuddies), but I like to make a hanging template for two-point hanging. I re-use my glass box cardboard for that. I put the finished frame face down on the fitting table and cut a cardboard the exact outer size of the frame. I lay this over the back of the frame and use an awl to poke thru the cardboard into the back rails at my desired hanging points (similar to the way you use the map pushpins). This guarantees that the engagement points of the hangers are at the exact positions of the holes in the template. I instruct the customer to hold the template to the wall, making sure it is level. Then mark through the holes to indicate the hook-bottom positions (or screw anchor positions). The cardboard template also serves to protect the glass on the journey home... and gives me a way to recycle the glass boxes. Triple-win deal!
Rick

 

[optimystery]

Thanks, but I think I'm even more confused now!

I googled floreat style hangers and saw hooks with 1, 2 or 3 nails. I imagine those would be ok for small frames, but not for something weighing 2-3kg. I don't know what kind of walls they have, but nails in plasterboard seems a bit fragile. If it's a hard wall then nails would bend.

If I understood correctly you use a spirit level or laser to line up and install all the hooks first.
The map tack allows you to check the position before attaching the d-ring, that makes sense.
d-rings go somewhere near the top (I didn't know what 'rail length' means, but assume that means vertical of the frame) and the hook is compressed to avoid the frame leaning forward, got that.

How would you position the head of the map tack on the hook?
With something heavy this may not work?

Since these are 1m square paintings with a float frame I think I would feel safer advising the client to drill and insert rawl plugs for whatever hanging system is decided on, rather than nails, but do correct me if you think it would be fine.

The z bars look good, but the advertised 5-6mm space behind the frame seems excessive.

I've done a bit more research and found that 57" is the common 'vertical center' for hanging a painting.

 

[wpfay]

The smallest of the floreat hangers I use are rated 20 lb. (9.09Kg) in drywall, and with 2 of them you double the allowed weight. The hooks are brass plated steel, and the nails are hardened steel, not unlike spring steel. They are unlikely to bend, but they will break under extreme pressure. The 3 hole floreat hangers are rated at 75 lb. (34.09Kg) each in drywall. At 2-3Kgs. your pieces would be considered light.

The "D" rings are placed very precisely on the backs of the frames first, and the hooks are put into the walls using levels and exact measurements.
The map tacks are used only to position the "D" rings on the back of the frame. If there is care taken in positioning the "D" rings the distance between the ones on each frame, and the distance between frames will be consistent, and easily measured.

A gap between the frame and the wall is desirable to keep air circulation constant. Air that isn't allowed to circulate can be a welcoming environment for mold. The use of bumpers (felt or silicon) at the bottom of the frames not only help to protect the wall from being marked up by the frames, it allows this desired circulation.

Hanging heights vary.
Galleries usually establish a hanging height that is proportionate to the space.
Hangings in offices and home are site-specific.
57" would be low by my estimations and experience. We usually start at 60" and go either way by only a couple inches. But the space dictates the norm.

 

[wpfay]

Rick,
I do that when I do a WB or "D"D rings for a retail client (I usually end up hanging them anyway).
Most of what we do is going into offices, and professional-ish art handlers and installers are used for that. We make sure the "D" rings are consistent within sets of frames. Getting the hooks in the walls at the right spots is the installers job. I used to do that too, but now only occasionally. I have 2-3 installers I use for local jobs.
A trick for doing horizontal measurements between "D" rings on wide pieces, is to place one of the hooks in the wall at the desired height and distance from center, hang that end of the piece, and holding the "D" ring of the other end between your fingers, rub it against the wall at the approximate desired height. Laser-level over from the other hook. and you have your second hook's location.

 

[optimystery]

The smallest of the floreat hangers I use are rated 20 lb. (9.09Kg) in drywall, and with 2 of them you double the allowed weight. The hooks are brass plated steel, and the nails are hardened steel, not unlike spring steel. They are unlikely to bend, but they will break under extreme pressure. The 3 hole floreat hangers are rated at 75 lb. (34.09Kg) each in drywall. At 2-3Kgs. your pieces would be considered light.

The "D" rings are placed very precisely on the backs of the frames first, and the hooks are put into the walls using levels and exact measurements.
The map tacks are used only to position the "D" rings on the back of the frame. If there is care taken in positioning the "D" rings the distance between the ones on each frame, and the distance between frames will be consistent, and easily measured.

A gap between the frame and the wall is desirable to keep air circulation constant. Air that isn't allowed to circulate can be a welcoming environment for mold. The use of bumpers (felt or silicon) at the bottom of the frames not only help to protect the wall from being marked up by the frames, it allows this desired circulation.

Hanging heights vary.
Galleries usually establish a hanging height that is proportionate to the space.
Hangings in offices and home are site-specific.
57" would be low by my estimations and experience. We usually start at 60" and go either way by only a couple inches. But the space dictates the norm.

Thanks, it's not the floreat hangers I'm concerned about, but the potentially soft crumbly plasterboard the pins go into.
I guess if I use a hanger that has thin/sharp double or triple pins then as long as the hanger isnt knocked it shouldn't come loose.

I would definitely put felt bumpers on the corners. I was considering the z bars but would have preferred a 2-3mm gap, rather than 5-6mm.

I now have enough info to attach the fixings (2-hole d-rings) to the float frames, and also to advise the client of options, so many thanks for your help!

I will recommend either floreat hangers or screws with rawl plugs depending on their preference.

 

[optimystery]

Just updating this thread with the solution I decided to go for.
2 * 2-hole d-rings attached at the top of these 100.7cm square float frames.
I thought it would be easier for the client to hang from the top, and drilling through the outside edge on the sides would have been too shallow.

On my MAFA course there is a Morso in the workshop, which has been the only viable solution, at least with tall mouldings. My Logan mitre sander has a bit of curve vertically, though it can be trued.
Since the stretcher bars were screwed into the float frame, I decided that Titebond glue + 2 10mm v-nails in the corners would be sufficient.
The Benchmaster actually works ok for pressing the v-nails.

I may just end up ordering chop next time, as I could do everything else at home.