acrylic glazing

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Randall C Colvin

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Feb 23, 2008
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Grab,Ky that's in western Green County ,Greensburg
I'm looking for some tips on working with acrylic glazing, specifically - dealing with the static nuisance during fitting. It's tough enough on small pieces but I'm about to work on a piece roughly 30x60 with a black mat and dread it like the plague.
 
I hear you! I start by charging a ton :)
I still end up having to fit it a couple of times. I also prepare the customer that no matter what I do, some little dust specs will show up.

I clean (spray) before I remove the plastic layer. I spray it again after (with plexiglass cleaner) and wipe it down. I make sure the art is as clean and dust free as possible. Then I say a good amount of prayers to the Gods and Goddesses of static (these will be followed by as many curses), take a deep breath and give it a try.

I have heard that those anti-static 'guns' are quite good but I have never used one.

I make sure that the shop is somewhat humid (fitting this stuff is easier in summer humidity than winter freezing).
 
I cheat. I am online only and 100% acrylic. I ship my frames with the plastic mask still on the acrylic and pry up one corner to and put a sticker on the mask to let them know that it is on there to protect the acrylic during shipping and that they can easily strip it off.

Here is what my instructions say:

Your frame is shipped with the plastic or paper mask left on the glazing to protect it during shipment. To remove the mask, place the glazing on a soft surface to prevent scratching. Using your fingernail, lift one edge of the mask from one of the corners and peel off the mask. Be careful not to get fingerprints on the acrylic while peeling off the mask. Once you have removed one side of the mask, start lifting the mask from the other side. Once you have it started, then place the acrylic in the frame and peel off the rest of the mask.

Of course you can't train your customers to do this. Pesky non-virtual customers want the frame sealed and the acrylic clean. Just thought I would give you all one more reason to hate me. :shrug: 🍷:beer::vomit:
 
Try Brillianize. It's a polish that leaves a hard finish on the acrylic that is basically friction free and static free.
We do a lot of acrylic (buy 20 48" X 96" sheets at a time) and this is the first thing we do once the acrylic is peeled (we prefer the paper masking vs. the plastic one).

Brillianize was developed to be used in the marine and aviation detailing business, so some of the better sources are related to those industries, though it can be had at home shelter stores in smaller size containers, and directly from the company that makes it.

https://pilotshq.com/collections/window-and-plastic-cleaners/products/brillianize-one-step-plastic-cleaner-polisher Brillianize - One Step Plastic Cleaner & Polisher is where I buy it.

Basic rule of use is an uncontaminated microfiber cloth for application and polishing. If it ever hits the floor, or is contaminated in any way, it's retired to cleaning rag status.
 
Ylva said:
I hear you! I start by charging a ton :)
I still end up having to fit it a couple of times. I also prepare the customer that no matter what I do, some little dust specs will show up.

I clean (spray) before I remove the plastic layer. I spray it again after (with plexiglass cleaner) and wipe it down. I make sure the art is as clean and dust free as possible. Then I say a good amount of prayers to the Gods and Goddesses of static (these will be followed by as many curses), take a deep breath and give it a try.

I have heard that those anti-static 'guns' are quite good but I have never used one.

I make sure that the shop is somewhat humid (fitting this stuff is easier in summer humidity than winter freezing).
Click to expand...
Thank you! Both for the advice and the humor - much needed in this business.
 
The last piece I did like yours wasn't that big but it was pretty sizable. I wait until the morning and/or an afternoon when the dust is settled before doing the fitting. I use "Flex-O-Glaze" which, like Brillianize, is a wax on the side that will face the artwork. Two rags, one for application and one for buffing clear. https://warps.com/acrylic-safety-glazing/ Acrylic Safety Glazing – Warp Bros
The black mat is the other problem, no? I used my SDI Dust Removal system roller to pick up most of the dust on the mat surface, then a careful visual check for anything remaining. BTW, the SDI product is marvelous for prepping boards and artwork for dry mounting. https://sdinetwork.com/
If you're using paper-faced acrylic, it's much harder to remove the paper than a film covered piece will be. I buy sheets and pre-cut pieces from International and they have a very dusty warehouse, so I always vacuum the piece thoroughly before attempting to work w/it.
As always with acrylic, the less you do the better off you are!
 
Removing paper mask from acrylic is made easier by rolling it off on a 2" diameter tube. Something akin to the blue plastic tubes that Framespace products come in.
Paper mask doesn't have the shelf life that plastic mask does, but if you are turning the product fast enough and can get relatively fresh product that hasn't been stored in a warehouse for a full summer, paper mask is easy to remove.
We get it because our experience has been that the paper mask protects the acrylic better, and doesn't get rolled off when pulling sheets from a flat stack. It also doesn't contribute to static issues, though here in hot, damp Florida, static is rarely an issue.
 
Fun fact. From what I'm told from Evonik, Acrylic manufacturer. With paper masking you really should clean the acrylic after you remove it because it leaves a residue behind. The plastic masking on acrylic does not leave a residue behind.
 
I've found that some older pieces of paper-masked acrylic do leave a visible residue. Never going back to that stuff if I have any choice.
 
I am 100% acrylic; no glass at all for my online framing. I stopped using paper masked acrylic many years ago. Of course, there is very little paper masked acrylic available nowadays. AFAIK, Tru Vue only offers plastic mask and Evonik appears to offer a paper mask only on their ff3 48x96. All other Evonik appears to be plastic. Correct me though, if this is incorrect.
 
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