3D Software Training 101

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Larry Peterson

Larry Peterson

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
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Apr 8, 2003
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Wilkes-Barre, PA
I decided to make this thread separate from Mike's What Are We Printing today thread and start a thread on the software training required to create and print using your 3D printer.

I'm talking about someone who wants to create something from scratch or modify an existing design. It is my understanding that most (if not all ) 3D printing is done from STL files so I guess the first step is to find software for creating and modifying STL files. What comes after is TBD. From the little reading I have done so far it seems like Tinkercad is a good place to start. Or do any of you have other recommendations. And is any free online training or forums available for design.

It helps when you have a project in mind, and I do have one. I want to print corner protectors for shipping acrylic. Maybe something like this.

VCC_grp_0300.png


Or this

HTB183.sCntYBeNjy1Xdq6xXyVXaX.jpg



I like the second version better as the ball on the corner will provide a little additional protection. I'm ambivalent about the protrusions on the sides.

So the first step is design this in whatever software is needed. And since I'm going to be using mucho many of these, desiging some way to print multiples in the same print would be great. Maybe printing 10 in a row with a small tab connecting each.

So am I starting in the right direction? Any suggestions?
 
Good new thread to start Larry.

Even with my very brief use of Tinkercad, I can already envision how to make corner protectors like that.
Literally, just make a triangle, overlay a cylinder on the corner, and merge the two into one solid object.
Create a second triangle, reduce the size to what you want the void to be, and "cut out" the void from the merged object.
Of course, precise measurements will be required, but that's easy to do.

This will be a good project to practice creating models from scratch.
I'll give it a whirl in a day or so and post what I come up with.
 
Nikodeumus said:
Good new thread to start Larry.

Even with my very brief use of Tinkercad, I can already envision how to make corner protectors like that.
Literally, just make a triangle, overlay a cylinder on the corner, and merge the two into one solid object.
Create a second triangle, reduce the size to what you want the void to be, and "cut out" the void from the merged object.
Of course, precise measurements will be required, but that's easy to do.

This will be a good project to practice creating models from scratch.
I'll give it a whirl in a day or so and post what I come up with.
Click to expand...
I was going say the same thing. I'll give it a go too with tinkercad and see what I can come up with. Another thing to think about is "hollow" forms like that may require a lot of supports while printing depending on the orientation or position on the bed while printing.
 
troyveluz said:
I was going say the same thing. I'll give it a go too with tinkercad and see what I can come up with. Another thing to think about is "hollow" forms like that may require a lot of supports while printing depending on the orientation or position on the bed while printing.
Click to expand...
Not having used software like that or done any 3D printing it would seem to me that the way to design and print it is with one of the edges on the bottom and the 'canyon' between the two sides be facing up like the yellow one in the first image above.

Doing it on its side like the ones in the second image would seem to be difficult, if not impossible, for the printer.
 
The ball on the corner seems to make it more complicated. The corner ball means the bottom edge is not flat on the print bed. How does it print the bottom edge when it isn't lying on the print bed?
 
Larry Peterson said:
The ball on the corner seems to make it more complicated. The corner ball means the bottom edge is not flat on the print bed. How does it print the bottom edge when it isn't lying on the print bed?
Click to expand...
Yes, that is true.
I believe when the model is imported into Cura I can tell it to add thin supports to the underside.
They would be very easy to snap off.

I have another idea, but it is more complicated.
The shapes could be printed in two halves that could be either snapped together with integrated tabs, or glued together.

glazing corners 5.jpg
 
Keep in mind the the thickness of acrylic is 3mm so each half will be thin. But it is looking good. Maybe later I can get a copy of your STL files so I can learn a bit from them?
 
troyveluz said:
Wow!!! your fast I was only able to make one design. I like the pegs idea so it can be printed flat. How did you align the pegs on the 2 halves?

View attachment 39091
Click to expand...
I started out basically the same as you, making one object with a void space.
Then, I cut the object in half by slicing off the top to reveal the interior.
After I had that, I positioned the pegs.

I made a clone of the pegs and base and flipped it over 180 degrees, this way the pegs "should" align perfectly with the holes created in the next step.
Now the top half should be exactly like the bottom half but flipped upside down, so the void space is facing down.

Then on the top half I selected the pegs, converted them the the "hole" mode, and inset them until flush with the body of the top half of the main object.
Select all 3 pegs (now all set as "holes"), and use the "Group" command to create the void holes.

It's hard to write clear instructions without visuals.
Later I can try making a step by step guide with pictures.
 
Larry Peterson said:
Keep in mind the the thickness of acrylic is 3mm so each half will be thin. But it is looking good. Maybe later I can get a copy of your STL files so I can learn a bit from them?
Click to expand...
Is there a file sharing feature directly through the forum?
It would be fun if we could all share our creations without having to use a seperate application.
If not, I will certainly be happy to email my draft models for you to adjust to your needs.
 
TinkerCad has a collaboration feature built in.
Anyone here can try this link:
www.tinkercad.com

Login - Tinkercad

www.tinkercad.com www.tinkercad.com

I started a new design, with each stage saved as it's own object, so you can follow the progression of how I made this build.
Feel free to copy/download the project to play around with your own adjustments.
 
Here's a screen shot of my test drafts.
On the left is the TinkerCad screen, on the right is the STL file open in CURA.

screenshot.png


An examination of the g-code conversion shows some issues with measurements I haven't work out yet.
See the gaps in the structure where the bottom holes appear to be too close the the objects edges.
The pegs & holes could be smaller, I think I set them at 2mm, reducing them to under 1mm would help.
Also, I haven't experimented with telling CURA to render walls and structures in various ways that may address the issue.

gcode example of tolerance issue.png



Oh, wait....DOH!
Season 3 Wall GIF by The Simpsons


I just realized that the problem is also that this model is quite small, only about 20mmx12mmx6mm.
Increasing the scale would eliminate the problem I have in this model with the pegs and holes being too close to the wall edges.
Back to the drawing board...
Calculate Fox Tv GIF by Ghosted
 
Nikodeumus said:
TinkerCad has a collaboration feature built in.
Anyone here can try this link:
www.tinkercad.com

Login - Tinkercad

www.tinkercad.com www.tinkercad.com

I started a new design, with each stage saved as it's own object, so you can follow the progression of how I made this build.
Feel free to copy/download the project to play around with your own adjustments.
Click to expand...

I get an

"Oops!

410 The share link has expired. To continue editing ask the owner for a new link​

Get me out of here"

Error when I click on the link.
 
If you plan to print it like the first pictures in this discussion, I would print it with the opening touching the build plate, because otherwise it would likely need supports to hold up that second wall. (on an FDM printer, but not on a RESIN printer) It printing in pieces, the flat side down to the building surface.
 
Mike Labbe said:
If you plan to print it like the first pictures in this discussion, I would print it with the opening touching the build plate, because otherwise it would likely need supports to hold up that second wall. (on an FDM printer, but not on a RESIN printer) It printing in pieces, the flat down down to the building surface.
Click to expand...

Me likey. Mikey. :beer: Sorry Mike about the pun, son. 😜 Me be on a roll. 🙃

4802042.jpg
 
Actually, I am frame free for the afternoon so I am here at home fixing to absorb some Tinkercad tutorials and videos. If I get far enough, I may start playing with a couple of the STL files.

Amazon tells me my new printer is:
Out for delivery
Now estimated 3:30 PM - 5:30 PM

so I should get to play with the printer a bit today also.
 
I got the printer installed and am on my first print. I had no idea what to print first so after scouring theGoogle, I decide on 3D Benchy.

A few general opening comments.

1. I know 3d printing is slow. Benchy was an hour and 30 minutes into the print when I took the photo. Like using a cocktail straw to fill a barrel with molasses.
2. The build quality of the printer is impressive. If I didn't know better, I would say it costs more than the Prusa printer. More organized. The prusa has a gaggle of wire that are difficult to tame. The CR-6 doesn't have that problem. I mentioned before that the tensioning of the drive belts is flaky on the Prusa. You almost have to dissemble things to tension the belts. And once they are done, it will be hard to redo it. Not so on the CR-6. Much much better. Just a turn of a knob.
3. Documentation. The Prusa has outstanding documentation. You would think the docs were written by someone for whom English is their first language. Not so on the CR-6. It is written in Chinese and Chinese English and is just as bad as any other Chinglish docs. And they were so brief as to be useless. Why edit hire not some English natural speaker. I did the brief assembly via YouTube. I would have missed things had I followed just the docs.
4. On the Cr-6 one of the buttons on the LED menu is the 'Prepare' button. And the instructions require its use when starting. Mine doesn't have it. I don't remember what it is replaced with and can't check it during the print so I will update tomorrow when the print is done.

CR-6-SE-Leveling-2-1000x483.png


cr6-1.jpg


cr6-2.jpg
 
Nice!

I see that it has the newer controls and silent board that was released initially for the Ender 3 V2 model. It looks like you also have the bltouch self leveling device? Do you find it to be quieter than the PRUSA? (I mean the stepper motors, not the fans) I like that it is just slightly larger from mine, and how they re-located the spool holder. You also have the filament runout sensor built in, I believe.

Creality makes a decent and very affordable product, IMO. Our Ender 3 will be 3 years old in a few weeks, and I've had her going 24/7 for MOST of that 3 years. I did do some upgrades in that time, such as the glass bed, a microswiss direct drive hotend assembly, belt tensioners like yours, a silent motherboard and color LCD touch screen (BTT brand), and a Raspberry Pi computer w/Octoprint to run the thing remotely from PC or smartphone. With Octoprint, you no longer need to use the built in screen or sd card, which can be done from a web browser or app. The replacement parts are so cheap, you can usually repair or replace things for under $10 from Amazon, with a ton of online support and youtube vids. The only thing I have HAD to replace were some 75 cent nozzles, the extruder (metal now), and a a new piece of tubing.

I'd love to get a new printer that has a larger bed size and the bltouch. Keeping the printers level is the #1 PIA, IMO, and that seems to make it painless.

Good luck with the new machine!

Larry Peterson said:
I got the printer installed and am on my first print. I had no idea what to print first so after scouring theGoogle, I decide on 3D Benchy.

A few general opening comments.

1. I know 3d printing is slow. Benchy was an hour and 30 minutes into the print when I took the photo. Like using a cocktail straw to fill a barrel with molasses.
2. The build quality of the printer is impressive. If I didn't know better, I would say it costs more than the Prusa printer. More organized. The prusa has a gaggle of wire that are difficult to tame. The CR-6 doesn't have that problem. I mentioned before that the tensioning of the drive belts is flaky on the Prusa. You almost have to dissemble things to tension the belts. And once they are done, it will be hard to redo it. Not so on the CR-6. Much much better. Just a turn of a knob.
3. Documentation. The Prusa has outstanding documentation. You would think the docs were written by someone for whom English is their first language. Not so on the CR-6. It is written in Chinese and Chinese English and is just as bad as any other Chinglish docs. And they were so brief as to be useless. Why edit hire not some English natural speaker. I did the brief assembly via YouTube. I would have missed things had I followed just the docs.
4. On the Cr-6 one of the buttons on the LED menu is the 'Prepare' button. And the instructions require its use when starting. Mine doesn't have it. I don't remember what it is replaced with and can't check it during the print so I will update tomorrow when the print is done.

CR-6-SE-Leveling-2-1000x483.png


View attachment 39132

View attachment 39131
Click to expand...
 
Larry Peterson said:
4. On the Cr-6 one of the buttons on the LED menu is the 'Prepare' button. And the instructions require its use when starting. Mine doesn't have it. I don't remember what it is replaced with and can't check it during the print so I will update tomorrow when the print is done.

CR-6-SE-Leveling-2-1000x483.png
Click to expand...

There are actually two differences in the main menu. Instead of Prepare button there is a 'Ready" button and instead of a 'Control' button there is a 'Setup' button. After I get through a couple of builds I will have to dig down deeper on this and find out why this is different.

cr6Menu.jpg
 
My first build, 3dBoaty, finished. Is all that scraggly stuff normal? It can be cleaned up but I would like to know if this is normal.


cr6Boat.jpg
 
Mike Labbe said:
Nice!

It looks like you also have the bltouch self leveling device? Do you find it to be quieter than the PRUSA? (I mean the stepper motors, not the fans) I like that it is just slightly larger from mine, and how they re-located the spool holder. You also have the filament runout sensor built in, I believe.
Click to expand...

It is self leveling; or it self levels when you select the menu option to do so. It is pretty quiet. I can't compare it to the PRUSA yet until I print the parts it needs.
 
I think this can happen when there was something with the temperature or when there is something wrong with the plastic material. As I look to your picture it started in the upper-part of the sculpture. The hull looks good as far as I can see. Or did you stopped printing in between?
 
Peter Odems said:
I think this can happen when there was something with the temperature or when there is something wrong with the plastic material. As I look to your picture it started in the upper-part of the sculpture. The hull looks good as far as I can see. Or did you stopped printing in between?
Click to expand...

No, it was a uninterrupted print. I have another going that will print overnight and I will see how that one looks tomorrow.
 
The "Ready" icon seems the same as the "Prepare" icon, and is in the same place. They probably just renamed it.

You probably have a firmware that is newer than when they created the instructions.
 
I only have some experience with hotmelt systems for glue and a very sophisticated system to print batch numbers at beer cans. Forty years ago that system could print over 40K cans/hour. It was very expensive.
 
Larry Peterson said:
My first build, 3dBoaty, finished. Is all that scraggly stuff normal? It can be cleaned up but I would like to know if this is normal.


View attachment 39137
Click to expand...
I had this issue come up as well.
www.thegrumble.com

What are you 3D printing today?!?

Ah they got wise and raised the printer price to $214. I'd still go with Comgrow for $223 if buying today. If shopping on an Amazon Business account, you may also be able to stack coupon code OPENFIFTY to take $50 off $150 minimum order. (valid June 21 and 22 only) If you pay the above with a...
www.thegrumble.com www.thegrumble.com
I believe the correction has to do with the retraction settings.

Mike answered my questions about this subject here:
www.thegrumble.com

What are you 3D printing today?!?

Ah they got wise and raised the printer price to $214. I'd still go with Comgrow for $223 if buying today. If shopping on an Amazon Business account, you may also be able to stack coupon code OPENFIFTY to take $50 off $150 minimum order. (valid June 21 and 22 only) If you pay the above with a...
www.thegrumble.com www.thegrumble.com

Here's one link that describes how to make adjustments to reduce the "stringing" effect.
 
I see now that you guys are using Cura for your slicing software. I used the default Creality slicer that come with the printer. Tomorrow I will install Cura, take a look at the settings and try again.
 
Larry Peterson said:
I see now that you guys are using Cura for your slicing software. I used the default Creality slicer that come with the printer. Tomorrow I will install Cura, take a look at the settings and try again.
Click to expand...
Scraggly stuff / stringing could be moist filament, temperature too high, or retraction settings. Id change retraction only as a last resort. 208 worked well for me when I was using the stock hotend. 197 now for me, with the microswiss.

The crappy one that comes with the the printer is actually a really old version of Ultimaker CURA. Get the newest one for better results. PRUSAslicer is also very good, and sometimes better. But Cura has better (tree) supports. I use both equally!

Mike
 
What I also need after I install Cura is a very, very small (print time) project; one that doesn't take hours to print so that I can test and/or fine tune print settings. Any suggestions for a very small (print time) project are welcome.
 
Here is a decent quick one to test your calibration.

www.thingiverse.com

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube by iDig3Dprinting

This is a simple calibration test cube for your 3D printer with X, Y & Z written on the axis.To further calibrate your 3D printer print one out and you can then measure this models dimensions against the expected dimensions. Once this is done you are able, if your 3D printer allows it, to adjust...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
 
or another, specifically to test stringing and retraction.

www.thingiverse.com

Basic Retraction test by Stefan_Alberts_

Simple retraction test to determine best printing temperature, speed and retraction settings.
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
 
Mike Labbe said:
Here is a decent quick one to test your calibration.

www.thingiverse.com

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube by iDig3Dprinting

This is a simple calibration test cube for your 3D printer with X, Y & Z written on the axis.To further calibrate your 3D printer print one out and you can then measure this models dimensions against the expected dimensions. Once this is done you are able, if your 3D printer allows it, to adjust...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
Click to expand...
Mike Labbe said:
or another, specifically to test stringing and retraction.

www.thingiverse.com

Basic Retraction test by Stefan_Alberts_

Simple retraction test to determine best printing temperature, speed and retraction settings.
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
Click to expand...
Great. Will fire up both of them after I install Cura
 
I installed Cura thios morning and printed the 2 jobs suggested by Mike. As you can see, no stringing so I guess the default slicing software is a piece of carp.

I didn't change any of the default Cura settings so I guess out of the box it is pretty good.

One question? Why the boundary marker around the print? To keep cats and other critters out?


20210728_103650.jpg


20210728_111253.jpg
 
To show you how much of a life I don't have, I can sit here at home and watch my printer as it prints in the shop. Screen grab from my Shop Nest camera. Lights are off but the Nest does a pretty good job with low lighting.

cr6-1.jpg
 
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