Float mount watercolor painting

Ryan

Ryan

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Good afternoon, I'm looking for some help on how to frame a watercolor painting using a float mount. Specifically, in how to space the matboard from the glass. First picture is the actual artwork. Second picture is the intended mounting/framing style.

I think I have the mounting figured out (t hinges to either a 1/8" foam core or 4ply matboard platform depending on how much depth I have; 4 ply matboard backdrop; foam core backing).

I assumed I would just use some type of spacer, however, fear that it will be visible at an angle. Most of the frames I have seen all have a very narrow rabbet around 1/4" and unfinished inside edges.

Do you have any recommendations for moulding, spacer, and how to do this? Thank you!

(I get my framing materials from International Moulding)

Ryan
 

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Nikodeumus said:
You can also glue or drymount the same colour mat you are using for the display mat to foamboard, then cut it to the exact depth you require.
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I am not confident I would make level enough cuts to give a clean transition between the mat/foam spacer pieces and background matboard. Based on my skill level with tabletop manual mat cutter.
 
With a quarter-inch wide rabbet, plastic side spacers 1/4" tall and taller usually show at an angle. For most jobs, this is fine, with framers using either white, black, or hollow spacers. With the hollow, mat strips can be inserted to match the main mat. For projects where an angled view of plastic spacer is unacceptable, or if the space is deeper than the sizes they come in, mat side strips work well. Some framers dry mount mat to 1/8" foam core, then cut the strips from that. Others cut strips of mat and foam, then attach to each other, before putting in frame. With both attaching mat strip to foam strip, and then attaching that to side of frame, it works well to have a few short strips of ATG tape, to hold it in place, with glue dots in between. For big projects, I sometimes use release paper and small clamps, to hold strips in frame whilst drying.
 
Shayla said:
With a quarter-inch wide rabbet, plastic side spacers 1/4" tall and taller usually show at an angle. For most jobs, this is fine, with framers using either white, black, or hollow spacers. With the hollow, mat strips can be inserted to match the main mat. For projects where an angled view of plastic spacer is unacceptable, or if the space is deeper than the sizes they come in, mat side strips work well. Some framers dry mount mat to 1/8" foam core, then cut the strips from that. Others cut strips of mat and foam, then attach to each other, before putting in frame. With both attaching mat strip to foam strip, and then attaching that to side of frame, it works well to have a few short strips of ATG tape, to hold it in place, with glue dots in between. For big projects, I sometimes use release paper and small clamps, to hold strips in frame whilst drying.
Click to expand...
Thank you Shayla.
 
There used to be a old-school moulding style that looked like a 4. In various sizes. As well as being a moulding in it's
own right it was very good when used as a spacer - the main difference is it has a rabbet and the sloped face makes
a nice coved look.
I can get a limited range here in the UK 'off the shelf', but as there are no curves to it it's relatively simple to mill.
Basically, you make a frame from this to fit the mounting board and fix it in. Then cut the glass to
sit on the top of this inner frame. Then it's just a matter of making the outer frame which slips over the whole thing.
It doesn't really matter if the inner frame protrudes at the back. It's easily attached using Fletcher Multipoints.
(as long as the outer frame is not too skinny). The front of the moulding is only about 3mm wide so fits invisibly under
the outer frame rabbet.
You could use a narrow, high back moulding the same way but the depth would be limited.


* that's the type. 🙂

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Ryan said:
If frame moulding and backdrop matboard will be white, do you recommend using a white colored or clear spacer?
Click to expand...
In this situation white spacers would be an excellent choice.
However, white spacers generally are not such a good choice for most any other colour frame or matting you may do in the future.

I tend to use the black ones the most.
Black works for the vast majority of frame/mat combos.

The clear ones tend to allow the colour of the wood to show.
If you use clear spacers you can paint the inside of the rabbet any colour you like to suit the project.
The down side is of course, this is more work. It adds time to complete the project and adds the cost of additional supplies (paint, mask tape, brushes, etc.)
However, it can lead to a versatile technique to learn that can benefit you in the future if you plan for it in advance.
 
Ryan said:
I am not confident I would make level enough cuts to give a clean transition between the mat/foam spacer pieces and background matboard. Based on my skill level with tabletop manual mat cutter.
Click to expand...
What manual mat cutter are you using?
I use the Fletcher 2100 manual cutter.
It not too difficult to cut repeatable accurate mat/foam spacers with a bit of practice (depending on the design of the equipment you have).
Another valuable skill to add to your "skills tool box".
 
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