Wizard cmc questions

wcox

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Jun 15, 1999
Posts
424
Loc
Winter Park, Florida
Got a couple of dumb questins about the wizard cmc.

First, when cutting a double or triple mat i assume you have to cut them and then have to attach them together. Isn't that difficult to line up the mats properly, particularly on large mats like a 40 x 60 triple mat??

Second of all how well does the Wizard cut other than regular mat board. IE SUEDES, LINENS, TRUVU's leather, slates etc?

All i see at demos are small regular matboard.

[This message has been edited by wcox (edited January 24, 2001).]
 
At first it is a pain to line up mats but not as bad as you would think. Like everything else we do in our craft, the more you do it, the more mechanical and automatic it becomes. Remember how hard it used to be to cut a frame? One thing for sure is it beats the heck out of cutting on a regular hand operated mat cutter.

The Wizard will cut all the pre-coverd boards just fine. Suede & leather cut about the same as regular mat board. We usually wrap our own mats though in my shop so we don't cut much suede. We do however cut a lot of the leather and it's no different than regular mats.
John
 
I was really a mental wrench the first time I was cutting a multiple mat on the wizard and had to cut the BOTTOM mat first - now it's automatic.

Having the wizard cut the outside will help you get the insides lined up. Trust me, it makes sense when you've got the mats in your hands.

Lengthen the blade depth for suede, silk, Bainbridge denim, and Crescent color cores.

Have fun. Kit
 
Take the advice and have the machine cut the outside. Lining up the mats is easy that way. All cuts with the Wizard are bevel cuts. We cut all types of speciality board with our wizard with no problem. You will truley be in love when you do your first multi opening double mat.
 
No - the outside edges are beveled. Sure, they're sharp but what you save in time more than makes up for what you spend on bandaids. Kit

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Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana

[This message has been edited by Kit aka emrr (edited January 25, 2001).]
 
On the wizard do you cut the mat board from the back of the mat board like traditional mat cutters or do you cut from the face of the mat board??
 
The Wizard cuts mats from the back (face-down) except v-grooves are cut face up. You can select to have Wizard design from the back or front in the multi-opening module.

We opted for the near-horizontal setup for our Wizard. We had a carpenter construct our table from the layout in the manual. We wouldn't have any other way. We never have to worry about fallouts.

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Jim Price :D
Western Winds Frame and Gallery
 
When cutting a V-Groove on the Wizard, it is better to do it the old fashioned way. Cut your window out from the back (don't forget to mark thru the cut for lining up purposes) with the Wizard. Trim off the Cut-out on your straight line cutter and tape back together. If you cut your V-Grooves from the front with Suede or Fabric mats, the pressure from the rollers on the cutting head leave marks that will not rub out. Good Luck!! <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by wcox:
Got a couple of dumb questins about the wizard cmc.

First, when cutting a double or triple mat i assume you have to cut them and then have to attach them together. Isn't that difficult to line up the mats properly, particularly on large mats like a 40 x 60 triple mat??

Second of all how well does the Wizard cut other than regular mat board. IE SUEDES, LINENS, TRUVU's leather, slates etc?

All i see at demos are small regular matboard.

[This message has been edited by wcox (edited January 24, 2001).]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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United we Stand, Divided we Fall
 
Fletcher-Terry F-6100

The F-6100 allows up to 6 mats in the clamps and cuts mat borders as small as one quarter inch. Mats can be cut face up or face down. Mat layers can be normal or reverse bevel.

The usual procedure for cutting double mats:

-Place top mat face down on the slip sheet
-Touch enter key to clamp mat
-Touch enter key to cut mat
-do not release clamps
-Put ATG on the back of the top mat as usual (while still clamped in the F-6100)
-Attach second mat face down to top mat
-Touch enter key to cut second mat
-(repeat for triple or quad mats)
-Release Clamps
-Remove finished double mat in perfect alignment

Each layer can be cut to size using a 2 side size cut or a 4 side size cut

Vee Grooves are cut first with the top mat face up. Clean cut with no reassembly and tape. There are no rollers to mark mats.

After dimensions are entered, a double mat with a rectangular opening and a Vee Groove is completed in less than a minute and a half.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Overcut:
When cutting a V-Groove on the Wizard, it is better to do it the old fashioned way.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What a waste of time! A properly configured Wizard cuts very fine v-grooves. We always cut the opening and outside first, then cut the v-groove (with "cut outside" unchecked). Never had any problems.


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Jim Price
Western Winds Frame and Gallery
 
Jim, I'm referring to cutting V-Grooves in Suede or Fabric Mats. If you cut them from the face side the Rollers leave marks (particularly in Suede) you can't rub out. Is there another way of Cutting V's in Suede on the Wizard?

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Overcut the Barbarian
Frame it or throw it away
 
When you cut double or triple mats on the Wizard and you use the standard decimals (.25 = 1/4" or .125 = 1/8") you get the skimpiest undermats. And that's with regular mat boards, not the heavier ones like linen, suede, or color cores. On those the undermat is even skimpier.

At our shop we use .18 = 1/8", .3 = 1/4", and .42 = 3/8". That way you actually see whatever measurement it is of the undermat's color.

This is not a hard and fast rule. It, of course, depends on the look of the image being framed and the thickness of the mat board being cut. But these are the measurements we use more often than not.

[This message has been edited by Jana (edited January 29, 2001).]
 
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