Wizard CMC Fonts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cliff Wilson
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Cliff Wilson

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Which fonts do you use?

1) to get the smallest lettering you can on a mat.

2) to do those "name" mats where you mount the photos in the letters.

thanks,
Cliff
 
I can't look since I don't have one anymore but I think there is a font specially for the name mats.
I think it is called photofont or something similar.

Oh, and happy birthday!
 
Thanks for the B-day wishes!

I couldn't find anything called "photofont" or similar.

My guess is there is some em-width setting and kerning that could be used with one or more fonts. I have been experimenting, but haven't found anything I'm happy with.

BTW, I have an 8000.
 
We do a lot of word mats. We cut mats for some of the high schools here - either the mascot or a sport, etc.

If you want to use the big, blocky letters to put pictures in, create a LetterMat, not a True Type Font Opening.

The LetterMats do not have as many fonts to choose from, but PHOTO2 is the best!

Depending on the length of the word we usually do about .375" to .5" on the kearning. Sometimes we have to go down to .25" (for SilverHawks and Thunderbolts :eek: ) but we try not to as it is hard to get the pictures to not overlap.

Hope that helps!
 
As far as the smallest lettering you can do - from what we can tell, it is hit and miss.

We were told by Wizard support to try to cut an "S" in whichever font. It is one of the hardest letters for the Wizard to cut - so if it can't cut the S at the size or font you have selected, make some adjustments and try again.

We have found that some fonts are definatly harder to cut than others.
 
Thank you DenKym, I was trying to use True Type Fonts. Silly me, I assumed the fonts would be the same.
now it works fine.

I haven't been able to get small at all.

I would like to do 1", but keep breaking blades.
Anyone have luck with a particluar font at 1" or less?
 
Hey Cliff,
Happy Birthday! Let me guess 29 again? I am on my 6th 29th birthday. They get better every year.

In the experience I had with Wizard, 1" was about as small as I could ever get anything to work real well.

Good Luck. I will be coming by to see you soon.

Harry
 
Thanks for the b-day wishes and thanks for the warning Harry!


Edit: hey, I just hit 1000 posts! I'm a Supreme Grumbler! Now that's a birthday present!
 
It would be nice also if you mentioned the CMC you are using 5000, 8000, fletcher etc. I hAVE A 5000 HAVE DONE SOME 1.25 LETTERS BUT IT DEPENDS ON THE LETTERS. Crap just looked up saw all caps sorry not going to retype. Its late
 
If you're trying to do the name mats with the pictures behind them, use the font called Photo 2. Then under dimensions you can specify the size of the openings in the letters, as well as the kerning (space between letters) and tracking (the spacing between words.)

As far as the smallest font goes, if you need to keep the text small, go with a simpler font to get the best cuts. The Wizard will reliably cut a radius down to about 1/4"-ish, so when you get to tiny letters, the simpler the better.
 
Cliff, you said you had the 8000 and no photo font. Whe we fist got ours it had Photo and Photo II. Since the last upgrade we only have one, which I think is the photo II. In the section with the kerring it will also tell you how small in height you can make the letter.
 
James, I think I said I had the 8000.

Dave, if I try to cut a 1/4" radius, my blade breaks.

I found the PHOTO2 font.

JPete, The minimum hieght specification is only in effect under LETTER MAT, it doesn't work under True Type Font openings.

Also, with a few steps, I can get the minimum hieght to change just by deselecting and selecting the opening again. I don't think it's very reliable?? I had an "ABC" opening with PHOTO2 font going between 1.75 and 2.5 for "minimum hieght," just by clicking on, off, on the opening.

My guess is a perfect ssquare edge sans-serif font should be easiest to get small, but I can't seem to find one. They all have rounded corners somewhere that present a problem.??
 
Sorry cliff like I said it was late!~
 
Cliff, A customer chose Scratch (straight lines) and it looked so great I put it on display in the shop. It gets a lot of attention. It was used just for a name. I also like Monster. ooops on the true type.
 
I don't hvae an 8000 and i don't cut photo name mats but if you want to cut very small lettering you can achiev this by setting everthing up in Classic font ( the measuremants ) and then before finishing you can change over toa different font ( despite the fact that they defult to larger sizes) and it will cut the larger defulted size fonts in the smaller settings.
Only problem is it doesthis proportionally .Hence if it is a font with seriffs they may be so close prportionally that they effectively will drop out the center memebr of the letter due to cross over on the verso of the cuts from the blade. ( some of thses cuts can prportionally be as little as 3/32 0f an inch apart,which is too close to not over lap)

Some times I use the Classic font and trim out the center portions and then reglue them in ,since they don't have seriffs to contend with and they still look relatively nice.But this is only fro letter openings not suited as photo opennings.
BUDDY
 
I agree with everyone that Photo is the best for putting photographs in. I recently had some problems with the true type fonts not taking and Wizard tech support said that not all fonts will work, as the Wizard is sometimes unsuccessful in translating them onto the mat.

Why do you want to cut letters that are only 1" tall? Wouldn't it be easier(and more cost effective) to just use a Calligraphy set and draw the letters on? You can get those sets for $15.00 at Office max...
 
Thought I would share what wiz tec support said when I called and asked what is the smallest letter I can get and in which font, since I was tired of using corners experimenting. The answer "I don't know!" Now there is service for ya.
 
After speaking with Mona just a few minutes ago, I wanted to clarify a few things.

There is a difference between LetterMat and TTF. LetterMat is created by Wizard, while TTFs have a wide number of sources (they are the TTFs located in your /Windows/Fonts directory). You can obtain fonts from many sources – I once purchased a CD with 10K fonts at Safeway.

When you bring in a LetterMat, click on Properties. It will display the minimum size of this particular font. Change the font, then click KAR to refresh the field to show you the minimum size of the new font.

Wizard has offered the ability to cut TTFs to allow users access to different fonts/sizes/Wingdings, etc. Because of the complexity and the myriad number of these TTFs that Wizard did not create, Wizard cannot guarantee satisfactory results.

But, as stated earlier, bring in the most difficult letter you are trying to cut (usually the “S”). If you are having a specific problem with that letter, bring it into PathTrace to edit. Sometimes just changing the angle of an arc or adding a straight line will make it easier to cut.
 
I understand how truetype fonts work and why Wizard can't "guarantee" or even guess how a particluar one will perform. But you can't tell me someone there doesn't know that font "foobar" can be cut at "x.xx inches" and that is the samllest "we" (the engineer/tech at Wizard) have been able to achieve. This isn't a hard question, and they spend hours (days?) just testing this kind of thing.

And, yes, if there was a particluar font I needed for some reason I know I coul monkey with it in pathtrace to make it "as small as possible," but that wasn't really my question.
 
Mona, I don't know is a real answer. I would rather have some one give ma an honest answer than pulling one out of their butt.
 
Hi folks,
My name is Jim Brown. I manage all software development at Wizard and am ultimately responsible for what cuts and what does not cut on the Wizard from software. I rarely post because Dani and Customer Support do an awesome job of keeping up with your issues. Still, I wanted to jump in here to make sure you all get the bottom line about cutting fonts and perhaps answer some more questions. I don't want anyone to feel they aren't getting complete answers or a complete understanding.

To be sure, we have dedicated extensive test/quality assurance resources for installs, updates, features, CutArt, templates and lettermat fonts. TrueType (TT) fonts are different. TT fonts were designed for printing, not cutting. We cut them because many framers asked us to include TT fonts, even knowing we could not guarantee them. However, they still create great designs with some TT fonts. If some of those framers are reading this, maybe they could share which TT fonts they use and what limits they found.

For fonts, we approach testing a bit differently. Wizard creates and certifies LetterMat fonts at the normal aspect ratio (i.e., KAR) and a minimum size. However, we do not certify TrueType fonts at all - at any size. Further, it is simply not possible to test all, or most, true type fonts (thousands) at all sizes (hundreds) and aspect ratios (tens). 10,000 x 100 x 50 = at least 50,000,000 possibilities! By the way, aspect ratio matters because it can make even a big size font "skinny" which has sharp angles and small radius corners. Even if we cut just 100 TT fonts at 1" and one aspect ratio times 26 letters and upper and lower, it’s still a significant task to test even a small number of TrueType fonts.

To summarize, TT fonts have never been guaranteed and are included because some framers like to use some TT fonts. While we do not have any current plans to change our support for TT fonts, we always welcome your specific feature ideas – especially where it can make a difference on your bottom line.

I hope this helps. I would love to answer more questions in detail (sorry, I always write a book :) ) if you like.

Jim Brown
Manager Software
Wizard International, Inc.

Grumble user name = Jim@wiz
 
Jim
Maybe the solution is for Wizard to develop some Letter mat fonts that look good at 1 inch. Thats the ticket. I see that monster seems to look good at 1" but the masters degree I am framing with school lettering doesn't seem the right font. Heres another rub with the old software I could cut 1" good looking letter mats. I have a promotion going for graduation letter cut mats, and have sold quite a few but I hate having to hand cut half of it out. I had not thought of going in to path trace till Dani suggested it, which I will and come up with our two local universities lettering save and file. Yet I will be using lots of corners to get it right my money and time and lets face it I would rather you guys figure it out than me. I appreciate the Wiz and their support, so I would like to see them develop some small new letter mats. Thanks
 
Mona,
Per your suggestion, we discussed some new fonts today. Two questions, 1) Can you suggest a font, by name, that would look good for the masters degree? No Promises but we'll see what we can do. 2) "...with the old software.." What version was that and was it a 5000 or 8000?

Thx for input.
Jim
 
Jim,

I'd just like to know the name of one font that looks "normal" (eg. Arial, DEFAULT ...) cuts at 1" high and doesn't break my blades. I have 5.2 software and an 8000.

any font. everyone I've tried the blade breaks?? :confused:
shrug.gif
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All,
I just finished cutting a new 1 inch lettermat font that Brian Wolf made for us. It looks great and has been certified at 1 inch.

The font will be available in September in time for Decor.

- JimB
 
Oh man....I forgot to mention that Dani was key in delivering the new font. She rocks! She's got some other cool new stuff, too. Look for it soon!
 
Cliff,
Cutting the existing fonts at 1" are not completely predicable for all existing fonts and letters (as you now know... :rolleyes: ) The lettermat fonts have recommended minimum sizes (larger than an inch) because most of the current font designs were not originally targeted for that small. But, now, we are beginning to address the small font needs. This new 1" font works really well and I think it will really help you out.
JimB
 
Hi, folks. Kerry here, a CPF out of the Salem area of Oregon. I'm new here, turned on to the Grumbler by "Mona" above.

I do field calibrations and tune-ups on Wizards professionally (both 5000 and 8000 units), and have found some things that might be helpful.

1) ANY font which has a tight upper and lower radius will carve deep on the regular bevel and shallow on the reverse. And keep in mind that your blade is flat and wants to cut straight, not curved. Look at a capital "O" for example... most fonts get very skinny on the interior pass at the top and bottom. As a result, the blade flexes to ease the stress in the curve, digging deep on the regular/exterior cut, but cutting too shallow to allow the center to drop on the reverse/interior pass. Expanding the horizontal aspect eases this some, but usually looks pretty poor by the time your cut gets good.

2) The only font which will cut every time, both inside and out, in most sizes without giving you major headaches is "Classic" under LetterMat. That's the style that looks like what you would see on a letterman's jacket... no curves at all, and lots of "serifs" that take extra corners to cut. But even this font will usually give you "hooks" (compression points or spots showing blade flex) at the plunge, especially on black cores and Moorman suedes.

3) The solution... and this is only workable in some cases, is to do more than one pass. I realize this isn't practical for those paying per corner unless you have a huge backlog of corners on tap. But when it's important, try this... Start with a new blade, and set your blade depth at about half the normal depth for the material you're cutting. If you have a version that has a plunge count with a built in "pause", set this for about forty or so, and don't cheat by not changing it when you hit the blade change prompt. You need a sharp point for letters, just like closed v-grooves. Cut the full pattern once, then reset your blade depth to the full depth and try it again. Your blade should track in the same cuts as before, but with less stress on the blade. Hopefully, it will get those "klingon" spots to cut through cleanly and prevent your slip sheet from being carved up so badly. Not a guarnatee since each unit has its own quirks and idiosyncracies, but it may help some.

Note to anyone out there who cuts Moorman suede... if you seem to get feathers on your suede ovals but your regular mat ovals seem to be good, try the two pass trick... first pass shallow, second pass full depth. This will reduce your feather problems dramatically!

Hope someone finds this useful.

ps. I'm currently trying to work up a full set of closed v-groove letters for cutting into the surface of the mat for a client who does MANY many sports projects and needs clean letters and numbers. If anyone else is interested, drop my a line.
 
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